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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 08-13-2016, 08:59 PM   #2566
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bomba View Post
Thanks,

Any idea on the part numbers for the extra idler gear, or is it the same as the other idler gear?

Same idler gear. But here is the parts you will need in the pic below to cover you for 4 gear:


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Old 08-13-2016, 09:12 PM   #2567
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Originally Posted by 190mph View Post
Same idler gear. But here is the parts you will need in the pic below to cover you for 4 gear:


Thanks! Huge help!
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Old 08-14-2016, 03:11 PM   #2568
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Seeing pics from the nats I'm seeing a lot of rear shocks mounted forward. Will be curious to see full setup sheets.
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Old 08-14-2016, 03:15 PM   #2569
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK View Post
Seeing pics from the nats I'm seeing a lot of rear shocks mounted forward. Will be curious to see full setup sheets.
Im not nats level but i have been running it the last 2 outings. With a few pill changes and a front wing it is now the best 2wd i have ever had.
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Old 08-14-2016, 04:08 PM   #2570
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Seeing pics from the nats I'm seeing a lot of rear shocks mounted forward. Will be curious to see full setup sheets.
Lots of gull wing front arms too.
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Old 08-14-2016, 04:56 PM   #2571
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i see lots of people running yok green springs on high bite tracks what about the yok orange springs 1 step harder and stock ae springs for front or are people changing them out also. thanks.
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Old 08-14-2016, 05:42 PM   #2572
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Anyone have issues with turnbuckles while building their B6D? One of the left hand threads looks like it wasn't machined correctly. It doesn't have any angle like the rest of the threads. It refuses to thread into a ball cup.

Not that big a deal to just buy a replacement, but a little annoying having to do so with a new kit. Regardless, was a fun and easy build and can't wait to hit the track. This is my first buggy!
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Old 08-14-2016, 05:52 PM   #2573
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Originally Posted by DG Designs View Post
Im not nats level but i have been running it the last 2 outings. With a few pill changes and a front wing it is now the best 2wd i have ever had.
what specifically did you do? care to share your setup?
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Old 08-14-2016, 06:01 PM   #2574
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Here is the updated one.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf B6D.2.pdf (309.8 KB, 252 views)
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Last edited by DG Designs; 08-14-2016 at 06:15 PM.
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Old 08-14-2016, 06:22 PM   #2575
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Wonder what happened at the Nats? No AE cars on the podium 2wd mod. Swept 17.5 though.
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Old 08-14-2016, 06:24 PM   #2576
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MX304 View Post
Lots of gull wing front arms too.
That i didn't notice.
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Old 08-14-2016, 07:53 PM   #2577
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4 Gear setup info:


http://www.reedyrace.com/ae/spotligh...4Gear_Chassis/
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Old 08-14-2016, 08:20 PM   #2578
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Maiden voyage of my B6D today. It was just a practice day, and boy did I need it. Running on a clay indoor track, but the traction was down compared to usual and there was dust forming outside the line. I would call it medium grip. Went with the kit set-up to start . . . ugh . . . loose as a hooker on dollar day. It was a strange kind of loose. Pitching the car in to a turn off power and the rear would walk, but it would square up on exit pretty well. Tried 3 different sets of tires and settled on my best set which happened to be JConcepts Dirt Webs in Silver compound. I made a ton of changes (almost all to the rear of the car) till I got it to a point that I could run consistent laps. Caveat, I like to muscle my 2wd in and out of turns, thus I tend to like a set-up that keeps my cars pretty planted. I'm also not a fan of adding weight if I can help it. Changes I made in order:
  • Laid rear shocks all the way down on the tower
  • Moved battery all the way to the rear
  • Went to the E hole on the rear hub. In hindsight, I probably should have left it at the C hole and moved the inner ball stud to the inner most hole on the aluminum ball stud mount.
  • Went up to white springs in the rear, car became more loose. Went down to Black springs, much much better
  • Removed all the inner ball stud washers on the rear
  • Shortest rear hub position (all spacers in the rear)
  • Went to 1.6 pistons in the rear. Went with 27.5 wt AE at first, but bumped it up to AE 30wt. Car no longer chassis slaps on landings
  • Running the aluminum rear D mount. Went to 4 of toe and removed all anti-squat. That was too much rear toe, ended up going to 3.5 toe and still no anti-squat.

The car can be pitched in to the turn now without loosing the rear end, although I do have a slight exist push now, but I will find a way to dial that back in. I was never a fan of the 3 gear in my B5M and I think I feel the same way about this car. I'm going to keep making changes to this before I resort to a 4 gear. Car felt pretty good for my driving style by the end of the day, but to be honest I think my B5M CE was better with the last set-up I had on it.
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Old 08-14-2016, 10:38 PM   #2579
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wease View Post
Maiden voyage of my B6D today. It was just a practice day, and boy did I need it. Running on a clay indoor track, but the traction was down compared to usual and there was dust forming outside the line. I would call it medium grip. Went with the kit set-up to start . . . ugh . . . loose as a hooker on dollar day. It was a strange kind of loose. Pitching the car in to a turn off power and the rear would walk, but it would square up on exit pretty well. Tried 3 different sets of tires and settled on my best set which happened to be JConcepts Dirt Webs in Silver compound. I made a ton of changes (almost all to the rear of the car) till I got it to a point that I could run consistent laps. Caveat, I like to muscle my 2wd in and out of turns, thus I tend to like a set-up that keeps my cars pretty planted. I'm also not a fan of adding weight if I can help it. Changes I made in order:
  • Laid rear shocks all the way down on the tower
  • Moved battery all the way to the rear
  • Went to the E hole on the rear hub. In hindsight, I probably should have left it at the C hole and moved the inner ball stud to the inner most hole on the aluminum ball stud mount.
  • Went up to white springs in the rear, car became more loose. Went down to Black springs, much much better
  • Removed all the inner ball stud washers on the rear
  • Shortest rear hub position (all spacers in the rear)
  • Went to 1.6 pistons in the rear. Went with 27.5 wt AE at first, but bumped it up to AE 30wt. Car no longer chassis slaps on landings
  • Running the aluminum rear D mount. Went to 4 of toe and removed all anti-squat. That was too much rear toe, ended up going to 3.5 toe and still no anti-squat.

The car can be pitched in to the turn now without loosing the rear end, although I do have a slight exist push now, but I will find a way to dial that back in. I was never a fan of the 3 gear in my B5M and I think I feel the same way about this car. I'm going to keep making changes to this before I resort to a 4 gear. Car felt pretty good for my driving style by the end of the day, but to be honest I think my B5M CE was better with the last set-up I had on it.
was the track watered when you ran your buggy?
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Old 08-15-2016, 04:02 AM   #2580
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was the track watered when you ran your buggy?
They misted it a bit a few hours after I started. Later they went to a full water. The car was better after some water, brought the traction up, but it was still not great. After I made all of my changes and even then it was a bit dry, the car was better.
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