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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 08-11-2016, 02:36 PM   #2491
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Steel weights are available at tower hobbies right now.
Amain in stock also, ordered mine last night
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Old 08-11-2016, 02:46 PM   #2492
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I ordered my steel plates from Tower this morning and this afternoon they are gone already.
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Old 08-11-2016, 02:53 PM   #2493
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I ordered my steel plates from Tower this morning and this afternoon they are gone already.
Now for the sway bar kits to come in and my car will actually have eveything I need for my indoor setup
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Old 08-11-2016, 03:56 PM   #2494
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When it comes to wheels for this buggy is any one brand preferable to another? Using some pro lines right now, but for my next set I am considering Associated due to price.
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Old 08-11-2016, 04:29 PM   #2495
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When it comes to wheels for this buggy is any one brand preferable to another? Using some pro lines right now, but for my next set I am considering Associated due to price.
proline and ae wheels suck. Avid make the best 2.2 and aka makes the best 2.4
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Old 08-11-2016, 05:05 PM   #2496
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proline and ae wheels suck. Avid make the best 2.2 and aka makes the best 2.4

What so much better about them?




I like the 2.2 AE wheels as I like the actual dish (concave) in the wheel face to the outside and the wheels look better longer. I have not had major issues with them.
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Old 08-11-2016, 05:07 PM   #2497
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What so much better about them?
He gets them cheaper...
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Old 08-11-2016, 05:30 PM   #2498
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I like AE wheels the best, 2.4 is dying a slow death, that fad has passed.
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Old 08-11-2016, 07:58 PM   #2499
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He gets them cheaper...
Direct customer going to direct customer.

The Rawspeed wheels are the best out there right now for medium to low bite. Some even like them on high bite.

High bite the AE wheels are good, as are the Avid and the JC/proline.
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Old 08-11-2016, 08:18 PM   #2500
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Trying to get my b6d order together. Is the stock steering rack pretty jenky, necessitating the aluminum one or is it fairly decent? Seems like its unanimously replaced on most cars I see.
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Old 08-11-2016, 08:25 PM   #2501
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Trying to get my b6d order together. Is the stock steering rack pretty jenky, necessitating the aluminum one or is it fairly decent? Seems like its unanimously replaced on most cars I see.
Jake I never saw the need for the alloy rack on the B5M, nor an alloy servo horn.

It's DEFINITELY needed on this car, in my opinion. ESPECIALLY on high bite.
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Old 08-11-2016, 08:40 PM   #2502
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Jake I never saw the need for the alloy rack on the B5M, nor an alloy servo horn.

It's DEFINITELY needed on this car, in my opinion. ESPECIALLY on high bite.
Can i ask what it helps? Im really trying to avoid unnecessary hop ups this time around. Also trying to keep the weight bias from getting any farther forward than it is now.Seems the aluminum would be quite a bit heavier but i honestly have no idea.
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Old 08-11-2016, 08:48 PM   #2503
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Heard at nationals they are removing the waterfall and running the battery further back towards the motor. Anyone tried this?
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Old 08-11-2016, 08:50 PM   #2504
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Heard at nationals they are removing the waterfall and running the battery further back towards the motor. Anyone tried this?
Seems like that would allow to much chassis flex
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Old 08-11-2016, 08:53 PM   #2505
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Heard at nationals they are removing the waterfall and running the battery further back towards the motor. Anyone tried this?
Interesting. From the vids I saw, I can see why. Looks like they are all struggling a bit for grip. But....what do they expect, when they run a laydown car...
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