649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
|
08-09-2016, 09:15 PM
#2447
Aluminum hubs are a very popular upgrade and often a weak point on RC vehicles. One of few parts that are commonly switched from plastic to aluminum. I made the suggestion base on durability since he was having an issue with the hubs, same as I did. Fixing one weak point makes it more difficult to break your car, even if it is a bigger or more expensive part that may be the next weak link. I'd rather finish races than have more hypothetical bite. Just my opinion.
08-09-2016, 09:22 PM
#2448
AMain says the kits are arriving this Thursday moving date up from the 17th.
Tower just got them in. Both kits In Stock Limited Quantities, hopefully just the first skid of many received this week.
I got to buy the D still and the Tower e-cash promo will soon line up next week likely with that. Hopefully it stays in stock.
Tower just got them in. Both kits In Stock Limited Quantities, hopefully just the first skid of many received this week.
I got to buy the D still and the Tower e-cash promo will soon line up next week likely with that. Hopefully it stays in stock.
08-09-2016, 10:26 PM
#2450
Tech Rookie
The simplest solution is to use some large faced washers that cover the top and bottom of the plate so the pressure is applied to the hub piece. I know of no one making the insert itself in any other material but it would be nice if possible.
Keep in mind this is only going to go so far. If you're landing on the edge of the wheel in a high speed tumble something must give. Chances are anything else would be more expensive.
Keep in mind this is only going to go so far. If you're landing on the edge of the wheel in a high speed tumble something must give. Chances are anything else would be more expensive.
08-10-2016, 03:57 AM
#2452
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Here is a few laps at SRS with my B6D and laydown. I was running un-sauced proline 2.2 clay slicks. Pucks, Avid Slipper and the laydown are pretty much the only upgrades.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_qiunFgWeU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_qiunFgWeU
08-10-2016, 05:37 AM
#2453
Question,
Are the shock cap o ring (#91491) and the threaded shock collar o ring (#91304) the same 12mm o ring? They were in the same bag and all 8 of them looked identical.
On my SC5M they were in separate bags, however comparing the two, again they looked identical. Same thickness and diameter.
Are the shock cap o ring (#91491) and the threaded shock collar o ring (#91304) the same 12mm o ring? They were in the same bag and all 8 of them looked identical.
On my SC5M they were in separate bags, however comparing the two, again they looked identical. Same thickness and diameter.
08-10-2016, 05:51 AM
#2454
Question,
Are the shock cap o ring (#91491) and the threaded shock collar o ring (#91304) the same 12mm o ring? They were in the same bag and all 8 of them looked identical.
On my SC5M they were in separate bags, however comparing the two, again they looked identical. Same thickness and diameter.
Are the shock cap o ring (#91491) and the threaded shock collar o ring (#91304) the same 12mm o ring? They were in the same bag and all 8 of them looked identical.
On my SC5M they were in separate bags, however comparing the two, again they looked identical. Same thickness and diameter.
08-10-2016, 07:07 AM
#2456
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,480
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Here is a few laps at SRS with my B6D and laydown. I was running un-sauced proline 2.2 clay slicks. Pucks, Avid Slipper and the laydown are pretty much the only upgrades.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_qiunFgWeU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_qiunFgWeU
Uh oh.....who had the all pink body first?
08-10-2016, 07:14 AM
#2458
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,480
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Rear hubs..I've NEVER seen that plastic part break. How do you even break that little piece and NOT break the hub itself
I have a NIB set of $35 aluminum hubs sitting in my box (B5m) only because I've seen WAY too many guys break ball studs with them, guys with WAY more talent than me. You're getting a DNF from breaking anyway, I would rather spend $9 for the stock hubs vs. $35 because the ball stud thread is stuck in the aluminum hub. Ya, sometimes you can get it out, but sometimes you can't.
IMO
I have a NIB set of $35 aluminum hubs sitting in my box (B5m) only because I've seen WAY too many guys break ball studs with them, guys with WAY more talent than me. You're getting a DNF from breaking anyway, I would rather spend $9 for the stock hubs vs. $35 because the ball stud thread is stuck in the aluminum hub. Ya, sometimes you can get it out, but sometimes you can't.
IMO
08-10-2016, 07:18 AM
#2459
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,480
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
So, I will keep it