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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 08-05-2016, 08:10 PM   #2341
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Originally Posted by flintTRDTC View Post
Very nice. Can't wait till someone offers that to the general public.
there will be soon...
i will post the site once they have them listed..
cheers...

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Old 08-05-2016, 10:13 PM   #2342
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Nice ^^^^^
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Old 08-05-2016, 11:30 PM   #2343
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Originally Posted by Riverbluff View Post
Looking forward to running my B6D for the first time tomorrow. Swore I won't run 17.5 ever again because I refused to abide by the "Keep up with the Jone's" mentality of of stock racing. But I figured I'd try the B6D the try in stock class.
You'll enjoy it. It's a treat to drive, I promise you. I won't be out for a few weeks, building my 2nd car still.
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Old 08-06-2016, 01:28 AM   #2344
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Originally Posted by slick1 View Post
there will be soon...
i will post the site once they have them listed..
cheers...

brennan, hook a brotha up!
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Old 08-06-2016, 06:11 AM   #2345
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http://www.redrc.net/2016/08/t-works...m-shock-parts/





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Old 08-06-2016, 06:24 AM   #2346
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And only because I love tools and gadgets:

http://www.liverc.com/news/new_produ...m_wire_clamps/

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Old 08-06-2016, 06:25 AM   #2347
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Thread direction question:

Do you guys want me to post tools and gadgets on the thread as well? or just B6/D related stuff?
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Old 08-06-2016, 07:20 AM   #2348
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Question about the optional 3x8mm set screws that are used to better hold the castor block insert and hinge pin.

On my B5m I tightened the set screw enough to compress the castor block insert and squeeze the hinge pin so it was snug. I didn't actually thread the set screw through the insert to contact the hinge pin. When I built my B6D w/ the aluminum bulkhead it made me wonder if I shouldn't have tightened the set screw right down on the hinge pin like the bulkheads on the 6 series?

What is the correct way to install the optional set screws?
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Old 08-06-2016, 07:23 AM   #2349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCBuddha View Post
Thread direction question:

Do you guys want me to post tools and gadgets on the thread as well? or just B6/D related stuff?
I don't mind seeing stuff like that. Might make someone's life easier. I wouldn't worry about adding them to the first page though, that might clutter things up too much.
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Old 08-06-2016, 07:24 AM   #2350
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slick1 View Post
there will be soon...
i will post the site once they have them listed..
cheers...

Paypal ready!!
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Old 08-06-2016, 08:09 AM   #2351
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Quote:
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I don't mind seeing stuff like that. Might make someone's life easier. I wouldn't worry about adding them to the first page though, that might clutter things up too much.
Ok, I'll post it, but not to the front page.
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Old 08-06-2016, 01:04 PM   #2352
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Just ordered mine today. Sadly on back order.

Im running the ECO Power 17.5, Savox 1257, Smc 120 esc, and smc 4400 shorty pack. Any idea on what pinion I should run with this bad boy?

I'm running stock because I've never ran 10th and want to get a feel for the littler cars on a track. I do plan on going mod sometime in the future.

Since i had to purchase electronics batteries and the kit i had to budget some things, but I feel my choices will prevail.
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Old 08-06-2016, 01:09 PM   #2353
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuebulon View Post
Just ordered mine today. Sadly on back order.

Im running the ECO Power 17.5, Savox 1257, Smc 120 esc, and smc 4400 shorty pack. Any idea on what pinion I should run with this bad boy?

I'm running stock because I've never ran 10th and want to get a feel for the littler cars on a track. I do plan on going mod sometime in the future.

Since i had to purchase electronics batteries and the kit i had to budget some things, but I feel my choices will prevail.
Gear according to your track. Ask the locals what gearing they are using. I used to be in your shoes before. I wasted money on spur and pinion combo that did not work.

Last edited by Phillip F; 08-06-2016 at 01:24 PM.
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Old 08-06-2016, 01:43 PM   #2354
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My buddy runs that motor. I think he runs 69/31
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Old 08-06-2016, 02:03 PM   #2355
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Very cool. Any pointers on the stock setup itself for a small tight clay track with dust and groove?
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