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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 08-02-2016, 08:37 AM   #2206
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My brother drove the car and broke this puny rear hub insert... do they make an aluminum version of this?

Mine broke in a main, got hit from behind and the car drove funny for the rest of the race. Unfortunately, the replacement part is in a $9 package with new plastic hubs. Fortunately, a friend had put aluminum hubs on and gave me his stock parts. I was surprised at how bad it failed, I had to pry it out from the hub.

Time for an upgrade for sure.....

Bruce
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Old 08-02-2016, 08:59 AM   #2207
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... do they make an aluminum version of this?

I had a similar issue. I didn't use the M3x8 washer the manual calls for on the ball stud. Not sure if it was because of the washer or not, but I got a replacement from a friend, installed the washer and no issues since.
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Old 08-02-2016, 09:35 AM   #2208
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still wondering if anyone makes after market chassis weights for this yet. AE is still out
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Old 08-02-2016, 09:37 AM   #2209
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still wondering if anyone makes after market chassis weights for this yet. AE is still out
I think I saw some Reds Workshop stuff on FB the other day.

https://www.facebook.com/redworkshopracing/?fref=ts
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Old 08-02-2016, 09:40 AM   #2210
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still wondering if anyone makes after market chassis weights for this yet. AE is still out
I've been told they're going to be out VERY soon from AE.
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Old 08-02-2016, 09:42 AM   #2211
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still wondering if anyone makes after market chassis weights for this yet. AE is still out

There are some on ebay right now
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Old 08-02-2016, 10:01 AM   #2212
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There are some on ebay right now
Not for long.
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Old 08-02-2016, 10:11 AM   #2213
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There should be an aluminum backing plate, it was on there, correct?
yes. The blue alum is in the front side held by a small nut . That is fine. I guess they designed it that way so that insert will break only and not the other parts. But they sell the whole rear hub assembly with it. They could have offered to sell those inserts only.
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Old 08-02-2016, 10:12 AM   #2214
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yes. The blue alum is in the front side held by a small nut . That is fine. I guess they designed it that way so that insert will break only and not the other parts. But they sell the whole rear hub assembly with it. They could have offered to sell those inserts only.
did you have the washer? We already know the other guy didn't.
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Old 08-02-2016, 10:17 AM   #2215
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I had a similar issue. I didn't use the M3x8 washer the manual calls for on the ball stud. Not sure if it was because of the washer or not, but I got a replacement from a friend, installed the washer and no issues since.
What are you using now?
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Old 08-02-2016, 10:22 AM   #2216
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‪#‎B6Tip‬ for your @teamassociatedrc ‪#‎B6‬ and ‪#‎B6D‬
On the rear hub, the kit calls for an unflanged 3mm nut (shown above). I prefer to run a flanged (shown below) but to help spread out the load for this assembly.
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Old 08-02-2016, 10:22 AM   #2217
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What are you using now?
I think he is using the stock hub with the washer....per the manual.
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Old 08-02-2016, 10:26 AM   #2218
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Originally Posted by belewis01 View Post
Mine broke in a main, got hit from behind and the car drove funny for the rest of the race. Unfortunately, the replacement part is in a $9 package with new plastic hubs. Fortunately, a friend had put aluminum hubs on and gave me his stock parts. I was surprised at how bad it failed, I had to pry it out from the hub.

Time for an upgrade for sure.....

Bruce
Just wondering... If I upgrade to this aluminum rear hubs....that would decrease my chances of breaking the read hub assembly BUT would that increase the chances to... Let say ...break rear arms more then? Which part would you rather break?
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Old 08-02-2016, 10:28 AM   #2219
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Just wondering... If I upgrade to this aluminum rear hubs....that would decrease my chances of breaking the read hub assembly BUT would that increase the chances to... Let say ...break rear arms more then? Which part would you rather break?
I've broke 1 rear arm in the entire life of the B5m...and it deserved to break. The less stuff you hit the less stuff you break.

You still haven't answered my question if you were running the washer or not?
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Old 08-02-2016, 10:30 AM   #2220
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Just wondering... If I upgrade to this aluminum rear hubs....that would decrease my chances of breaking the read hub assembly BUT would that increase the chances to... Let say ...break rear arms more then? Which part would you rather break?
you increase you chance of breaking a stud off in the aluminum hub or camber block. The plastic hubs are fine. If you go aluminum, I would get the schelle ones. They have a replaceable top piece. But... when I ran the schelle hubs on my b5m, they freed up the rear and added steering to the car. If you are fine with that, then go for it. I think they are due out at the end of this month.
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