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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 07-30-2016, 04:28 AM   #2101
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Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
YES!!! solves my motor high temp. My gearing and timing is perfect for the track I race at and was getting 167 temps after a 5 minute run. This will lower it down a bit. Thank you BOUCHER !!
Oh, don't give me credit for the idea. I was just passing on a cool idea somebody else had.

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Originally Posted by dustneyes View Post
I looked around the best I could, but I could not find... I have the aluminum "D" mount in my B6D. Is there a chart that shows the different settings (with corresponding toe/anti-squat) of pill settings for the "D" mount like they have for the "C" mount". I realize that having both, the combinations are endless, but just wondering if there was an additional chart with the "D". Thanks!
The stock plastic D block is the same as the aluminum D block using the center dot pill. Just use critical thinking to figure out changes in toe/anti-squat based off that.
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Old 07-30-2016, 05:03 AM   #2102
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I looked around the best I could, but I could not find... I have the aluminum "D" mount in my B6D. Is there a chart that shows the different settings (with corresponding toe/anti-squat) of pill settings for the "D" mount like they have for the "C" mount". I realize that having both, the combinations are endless, but just wondering if there was an additional chart with the "D". Thanks!
Just think about it a little more objectively.

The .5 pills make a certain amount of change, whether it's on the c or the d. The 1 pills make a larger change.
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Old 07-30-2016, 05:10 AM   #2103
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Yep this was rivkins car, he and cav do this
They mount the fan with double sided tape.

http://eos.redrc.net/2016/04/chassis...pencer-rivkin/
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Old 07-30-2016, 05:46 AM   #2104
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Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
YES!!! solves my motor high temp. My gearing and timing is perfect for the track I race at and was getting 167 temps after a 5 minute run. This will lower it down a bit. Thank you BOUCHER !!

What is the part that is holding the fan? I need 2 them for my 2 kits thank you sir
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Old 07-30-2016, 05:54 AM   #2105
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Those are b5m servo mounts. If you want the fan away from the motor more, use b6 mounts.
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Old 07-30-2016, 05:54 AM   #2106
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What is the part that is holding the fan? I need 2 them for my 2 kits thank you sir
Looks like a B5m servo bracket
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Old 07-30-2016, 08:44 AM   #2107
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Originally Posted by Pistol123 View Post
I had similar running a dex210 on grass in mm3 , tried putting weight on the rear but it didn't sort it. In the end lengthening the rear camber links sorted. I'm not sure why but it appeared I was lifting the inside rest tyre on throttle. Night work similar on the b6.
And you know why? The front suspension was collapsing more than the rear, now with the longer camber link the rear collapses as much as the front. It's like Usain Bolt having a sore knee so the medic would bang the good knee with a hammer so they're both hurting

That's the big problem with setup, which end is causing us trouble? Which way to go?

In the end, removing a shim (-1mm for a start) from the front bulkhead would be much better than a longer camber link. BTW, I've handled and analysed dozens of cars and most of them suffer from front suspension collapsing because of low RC height and generally too soft a spring too, that's why most tend to run too soft a spring and lower(or more roll) roll centers in the rear, compounding the issue.

Hope it helps!
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Old 07-30-2016, 09:00 AM   #2108
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Where do you get positive camber from that?
"Lengthening rear camber links ".. You get + camber. Shortening it... You get - camber.
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Old 07-30-2016, 09:20 AM   #2109
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And you know why? The front suspension was collapsing more than the rear, now with the longer camber link the rear collapses as much as the front. It's like Usain Bolt having a sore knee so the medic would bang the good knee with a hammer so they're both hurting

That's the big problem with setup, which end is causing us trouble? Which way to go?

In the end, removing a shim (-1mm for a start) from the front bulkhead would be much better than a longer camber link. BTW, I've handled and analysed dozens of cars and most of them suffer from front suspension collapsing because of low RC height and generally too soft a spring too, that's why most tend to run too soft a spring and lower(or more roll) roll centers in the rear, compounding the issue.

Hope it helps!
Thanks, makes sense - will have to go away and have a think about those comments and get my head around it and try a different set up.
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Old 07-30-2016, 09:25 AM   #2110
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Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
"Lengthening rear camber links ".. You get + camber. Shortening it... You get - camber.
Well, you obviously need to reset your static camber after adjusting the length. The length adjusts the camber gain as the suspension compresses, but you would want to set your static camber the same as before the change.
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Old 07-30-2016, 09:27 AM   #2111
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http://users.telenet.be/elvo/

look in "setup guide" for info on camber links/link length and what does what.

I have other links on the first page that make for a good reading.
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Old 07-30-2016, 09:59 AM   #2112
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Making my way through the build and everything has been going very well. Kudos to Associated for making a pretty killer manual for this car. One problem I have run into though is my steering knuckles are pretty tight inside the c blocks. Did any of you run into this and did you loosen them up with a 3mm reamer?
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Old 07-30-2016, 10:19 AM   #2113
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Well, you obviously need to reset your static camber after adjusting the length. The length adjusts the camber gain as the suspension compresses, but you would want to set your static camber the same as before the change.
Of course. I usually install everything in the buggy ... Drop it like 12 inches down to my setup board then ... Then measure.
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Old 07-30-2016, 10:25 AM   #2114
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Making my way through the build and everything has been going very well. Kudos to Associated for making a pretty killer manual for this car. One problem I have run into though is my steering knuckles are pretty tight inside the c blocks. Did any of you run into this and did you loosen them up with a 3mm reamer?
yeah, I had this. It went away after a couple packs on the track.
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Old 07-30-2016, 10:35 AM   #2115
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Of course. I usually install everything in the buggy ... Drop it like 12 inches down to my setup board then ... Then measure.
When he says "lengthen the camber link" he's talking about moving the inner ballstud towards a more inner hole (or the outer ballstud to a more outward hole). And then obviously lengthening the actual link to keep the same camber.

He's not just lengthening the link -- that would be referred to as adding "X degrees of camber".
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