649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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07-29-2016, 03:20 PM
#2086
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
Thanks for posting! I ordered one from Tower but the ship date just got pushed out another couple weeks. I saw your location and called up the shop to make sure he had more than 1 in stock, then went and picked one up! He had the parts for the laydown conversion too.
07-29-2016, 06:19 PM
#2088
You can also remove a ball stud washer from the rear inner camber link. A higher rear roll center (lower inner link) will let you push harder on exit. You will also give up some traction on entry, but gain rotation.
Last edited by mick33b4; 07-29-2016 at 08:13 PM.
07-29-2016, 07:04 PM
#2090
Please delete, double post from phone.
07-29-2016, 07:37 PM
#2091
07-29-2016, 07:49 PM
#2093
07-29-2016, 11:47 PM
#2095
07-30-2016, 12:13 AM
#2096
I had similar running a dex210 on grass in mm3 , tried putting weight on the rear but it didn't sort it. In the end lengthening the rear camber links sorted. I'm not sure why but it appeared I was lifting the inside rest tyre on throttle. Night work similar on the b6.
07-30-2016, 02:18 AM
#2098
I looked around the best I could, but I could not find... I have the aluminum "D" mount in my B6D. Is there a chart that shows the different settings (with corresponding toe/anti-squat) of pill settings for the "D" mount like they have for the "C" mount". I realize that having both, the combinations are endless, but just wondering if there was an additional chart with the "D". Thanks!
07-30-2016, 02:37 AM
#2099
07-30-2016, 03:33 AM
#2100
No -1' rear camber. I wondered if it was the roll centre raising too much, but with the longer top links the rear is bolted down and can now whack open the throttle. If I'm honest it now has a little too much rear grip mid corner, so a little more front grip/lead rear grip is the next thing to try.
Last edited by Pistol123; 07-30-2016 at 06:19 AM.