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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 07-29-2016, 06:15 AM   #2056
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Hey all. After a 10 year plus layoff from RC racing, I've got the bug again and this car certainly has my attention. I'm curious, for 1/10th scale stock buggy racing, what's the general opinion as to how much capacity you need in a 2S pack? Would something in the 4000mah to 4500mah range be too small? Also what specs should I be looking for in steering servos for 10th scale buggy? Thanks for any advice you can provide.
That battery capacity would probably be correct but it could depend on if you are running stock or mod and how long of runs you need. Definitely get a shorty configured pack.

For steering servos in 2wd buggies I like to stay below .10s transit and above 120 in-oz torque. Some of my favorites are the Reedy 1206, Reedy 1408, or Xpert PI-3402. All of those will be more than enough at 6v BEC. There are lots of other servos that exceed those specs so you should have lots to choose from to meet your taste/budget.
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Old 07-29-2016, 06:26 AM   #2057
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I've tried the Schumacher mini pins rear and stagggered rib fronts on my T5M. I found the fronts a little too bitey. Is that a word? It is now ;P I actually switched to AKA Chainlinks for the front.
For the B6 I'm going to try the new Jconcepts Pindowns in rear and Swaggers on the front. I saw JR Mitch testing them at the Extreme Carpet Initative a few months ago. He, Blake Boggs, and a couple of the fast guys were running them as prototypes. They look good, we'll see how they fare. I hope for some long life out of them.
Schumacher make a non-cut stagger rib also which is less 'bitey'.
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Old 07-29-2016, 07:31 AM   #2058
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Originally Posted by Schuie Driver View Post
Hey all. After a 10 year plus layoff from RC racing, I've got the bug again and this car certainly has my attention. I'm curious, for 1/10th scale stock buggy racing, what's the general opinion as to how much capacity you need in a 2S pack? Would something in the 4000mah to 4500mah range be too small? Also what specs should I be looking for in steering servos for 10th scale buggy? Thanks for any advice you can provide.
Capacity numbers don't matter like they did 10-20 years ago.
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Old 07-29-2016, 07:41 AM   #2059
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Capacity numbers don't matter like they did 10-20 years ago.
Ah...those were the days. I would say 25+ years ago. We had 2000's when we raced Socket.
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Old 07-29-2016, 07:44 AM   #2060
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Ah...those were the days. I would say 25+ years ago. We had 2000's when we raced Socket.
1800SC-R's.

Those were the days. Now we can go 20 minutes...I remember charging my Reedy Zappers...Or I think we'd get Orion's. Anyways, charging them at 6 amps on my BC-112C.

What a time to be alive.
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Old 07-29-2016, 07:55 AM   #2061
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I raced with 1200-SCR back in the day. And was charging back then at 9 amps using 2 tekins just for stock.. until tekin came out with there black 9 amp charger..
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Old 07-29-2016, 07:55 AM   #2062
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Okay. I ran my B6 tonight at the track and when the track dries out a bit. The rear just breaks loose and loses traction when I gun the buggy exiting a corner. What should I do?
gun the throttle less and smooth it out.. maybe a softer tire when it dries out.
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Old 07-29-2016, 07:56 AM   #2063
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Okay. I ran my B6 tonight at the track and when the track dries out a bit. The rear just breaks loose and loses traction when I gun the buggy exiting a corner. What should I do?
Maybe a track with more consistency?
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Old 07-29-2016, 07:58 AM   #2064
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Okay. I ran my B6 tonight at the track and when the track dries out a bit. The rear just breaks loose and loses traction when I gun the buggy exiting a corner. What should I do?
B6 built to kit? Maybe try swapping the shocks to the back of the arm to calm down rotation.
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Old 07-29-2016, 08:12 AM   #2065
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Capacity numbers don't matter like they did 10-20 years ago.
I guess that was the point of my ask. It would seem in stock racing where weight is always talked about you would want to run with a pack that has lower capacity for that potential weight savings. However, when I see some of the buggies shown here and on other sites and guys are set up to run stock I'm seeing battery capacities over the 5000mah range.
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Old 07-29-2016, 08:19 AM   #2066
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Originally Posted by Schuie Driver View Post
I guess that was the point of my ask. It would seem in stock racing where weight is always talked about you would want to run with a pack that has lower capacity for that potential weight savings. However, when I see some of the buggies shown here and on other sites and guys are set up to run stock I'm seeing battery capacities over the 5000mah range.
I use the 4250mah pack from Protek and its great. Running whats known as a slim shorty (the less mah versions) get rid of a substantial chunk of weight out of the heaviest electronic component in the car....which isn't always a good thing. Cars these days, especially the B6, are already near the weight limit with a std shorty pack. Plus, a higher mah pack should hold a higher voltage longer compared to the lower mah pack.
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Old 07-29-2016, 08:38 AM   #2067
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I raced with 1200-SCR back in the day. And was charging back then at 9 amps using 2 tekins just for stock.. until tekin came out with there black 9 amp charger..

I vaguely remember the black tekin. Didn't it have a giant heat sink?

I had the 112C and loved it. Then pops bought me the 112A to plug into the back. It worked so well.
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Old 07-29-2016, 08:38 AM   #2068
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Originally Posted by Schuie Driver View Post
I guess that was the point of my ask. It would seem in stock racing where weight is always talked about you would want to run with a pack that has lower capacity for that potential weight savings. However, when I see some of the buggies shown here and on other sites and guys are set up to run stock I'm seeing battery capacities over the 5000mah range.
The protek 4250 is the hot battery right now, and has been for a few months.

It can be overvolted to 4.35V per cell, and has magnificent IR's when charged at 70 amps.
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Old 07-29-2016, 09:30 AM   #2069
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I vaguely remember the black tekin. Didn't it have a giant heat sink?

I had the 112C and loved it. Then pops bought me the 112A to plug into the back. It worked so well.
I still have mine
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Old 07-29-2016, 09:36 AM   #2070
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Haha. Those were the days. I remember at cactus I messed up and didn't realize my race was 1 or 2 away. I cranked my 112c to...10 amps? Battery was screaming hot and was hard to soldier in, but damn it was good.
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