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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 07-28-2016, 12:13 PM   #2026
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after seeing egalsim's rc10 body ,,, had to do it for myself

my colors,, and it actually got around the track well!! thought it would be more rollie in the corners,,,, good thing of high wing, i caught the pipe and it rolled right back to the wheels, kinda like a 1/12 pogo antenna, LOL




Not sure I'm 100% sold on the idea or that I would do it myself..but pretty cool regardless!
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Old 07-28-2016, 12:13 PM   #2027
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The Kyosho about 2 years ago fell off hard here in AZ. They had a few sponsored drivers not do well by them, and no one has had a Kyo deal since. I know a guy who stuck by his for awhile and made it work, but I have not personally driven or owned one.

Doesn't mean I wouldn't buy a RB6.6 tomorrow! With my ADD when it comes to chassis, it wouldn't surprise anyone.

The internet racer in me thinks it looks cool, and I know Kyo quality is top notch. The only thing I worry about the Kyo is parts cost and availability. Of course, this is after I just spent $100 on Kyo springs.
Thank you sir.

Kyosho springs are no joke. I have them too and AE and yokomo and Dingo springs.
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Old 07-28-2016, 12:46 PM   #2028
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For those who have experience, even just racing against experience, how are these comparing to say the Xray xb2 as far as performance and parts quality / wear goes?
i had a xray. the instructions and build are awesome, they set the bar high there. ae is not far behind. my b6 build was flawless. on the track the b6 is hands down easier to drive. the parts cost a lot less and are about equal in quality in my opinion. the xray with work i am sure can be much better than i had it. the ae just works the second you throw it on the track.
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Old 07-28-2016, 02:17 PM   #2029
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Better keep extras of there...They're TINY



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Old 07-28-2016, 02:33 PM   #2030
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I hate you! Lol
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Old 07-28-2016, 02:43 PM   #2031
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Old 07-28-2016, 02:48 PM   #2032
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Better keep extras of there...They're TINY

Still have not fixed this
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Old 07-28-2016, 02:49 PM   #2033
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Love your layout sir.. NICE

You scale it yet?
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Old 07-28-2016, 03:18 PM   #2034
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Love your layout sir.. NICE

You scale it yet?
I have...

It scaled out really well right to left.
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Old 07-28-2016, 03:50 PM   #2035
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I have...

It scaled out really well right to left.
Around 50-50 L-R weight bias?

Couple question if you don't mind. How much runtime you get out of those slot car pinions? Is that a LCG shorty?
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Old 07-28-2016, 03:53 PM   #2036
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The spurs last alright, but you have to be critical of your gear mesh.
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Old 07-28-2016, 04:38 PM   #2037
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Thanks, going to see a local slot car shop if they have them.
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Old 07-28-2016, 04:39 PM   #2038
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what size wires are those?
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Old 07-28-2016, 05:23 PM   #2039
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what size wires are those?
IIRC they don't list them as a size. It's TQ1000 wire.
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Old 07-28-2016, 05:33 PM   #2040
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IIRC they don't list them as a size. It's TQ1000 wire.
it is 1000 strand copper wire. it is listed as 14ish awg. With a thin insulation wall.
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