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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 07-27-2016, 08:58 AM   #1996
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I have always wanted to get a 4 scale weight gauge but could never justify it for the little amount of on-road I run. Then along comes the B6 with a seemingly endless combination or tuning options which finally makes me pull the trigger on one just so I can keep some sort of baseline when making weight, shock location, electronics position changes.

The tune ability of the B6 is very impressive. I imagine it will only grow once the aftermarket gets up to full speed.
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Old 07-27-2016, 09:01 AM   #1997
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I have this, but not used it yet. Was going to just try other guys springs in the pits for 1/8 buggies I thought as Associated only has 3 offerings on the RC8B3 series right now and I guess I can measure any spring I have to figure out if they are close to any published figures out there.
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Old 07-27-2016, 09:10 AM   #1998
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Originally Posted by AMessy View Post
I have always wanted to get a 4 scale weight gauge but could never justify it for the little amount of on-road I run. Then along comes the B6 with a seemingly endless combination or tuning options which finally makes me pull the trigger on one just so I can keep some sort of baseline when making weight, shock location, electronics position changes.

The tune ability of the B6 is very impressive. I imagine it will only grow once the aftermarket gets up to full speed.
There have been plenty of options (financially) for corner scales handling most of the 1/10th scale stuff. If you were running GT or SC then those options started to become a little more expensive when I last checked. All of these were 4 independent scales so you had to do the math.

Let us know which system you ended up with.
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Old 07-27-2016, 09:24 AM   #1999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mason View Post
There have been plenty of options (financially) for corner scales handling most of the 1/10th scale stuff. If you were running GT or SC then those options started to become a little more expensive when I last checked. All of these were 4 independent scales so you had to do the math.

Let us know which system you ended up with.
I went with the G-Force weight gauge. I looked into just getting 3 more Park Tool scales as I already have 1 for cycling but decided I was fine getting the G-Force. I'll probably leave it out on the end of my work bench for convenience so hopefully it gets some moderate use.

It's first use will be on my B5m, I feel I have it balanced pretty well but have not verified. I can then use this for comparison when I set up my B6D to try and achieve similiar weight distribution.
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Old 07-27-2016, 09:55 AM   #2000
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Originally Posted by tsair View Post
If you have a drill press and a scale you can measure lbs./in. pretty easily.

I had a Dremel stand that I got cheap from a friend that does the same thing --

http://razorrc.tumblr.com/post/14297.../spring-tester
That's a good idea. I'll add that to the list of reasons to get the drill press attachment for my dremel. Thanks!
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Old 07-27-2016, 11:12 AM   #2001
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Neil Cragg has just TQ'D and won the 1/10th European championships with a 4-gear B6D.
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Old 07-27-2016, 12:53 PM   #2002
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Neil Cragg has just TQ'D and won the 1/10th European championships with a 4-gear B6D.
In the final he used 3 gear.
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Old 07-27-2016, 04:06 PM   #2003
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My carpet car is a little light....
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Old 07-27-2016, 09:09 PM   #2004
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My carpet car is a little light....
For my carpet setup I will order as soon as available the steel weights. According to cavs eos setup he addedid both, to add weight to the car
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Old 07-27-2016, 09:20 PM   #2005
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Is anyone running a slipper eliminator with a gear diff or will this cause problems?

Thanks
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Old 07-27-2016, 09:42 PM   #2006
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Originally Posted by fievel View Post
Is anyone running a slipper eliminator with a gear diff or will this cause problems?

Thanks
Why?
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Old 07-28-2016, 05:14 AM   #2007
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Corner weight systems, spring rate measurement systems, set up stations, high traction carpet tracks...... Now all we need is tire warmers and we'll be all set!
I think it's a secret conspiracy that everyone wants to run on-road. It's ok if you want to buy a TC guys, it really is lol!
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Old 07-28-2016, 06:42 AM   #2008
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Okay guys, manual is a little fuzzy (on B6). Page 11 states there's a 72t spur included for stock motor use. So I used that one. But in the back of the manual it lists 69t spur, 31t pinion for 17.5 motors. 72t spurs are not listed anywhere in the gearing chart. I have a 69/31 set on order, but just curious what others are using?
If this has been asked an answered already, point me to the page please. There was 100 pages here before the buggy even got released! Thanks
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Old 07-28-2016, 06:44 AM   #2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceR. View Post
Okay guys, manual is a little fuzzy (on B6). Page 11 states there's a 72t spur included for stock motor use. So I used that one. But in the back of the manual it lists 69t spur, 31t pinion for 17.5 motors. 72t spurs are not listed anywhere in the gearing chart. I have a 69/31 set on order, but just curious what others are using?
If this has been asked an answered already, point me to the page please. There was 100 pages here before the buggy even got released! Thanks
72/69 spurs are used quite often in stock buggy. Using a 72 will be fine.
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Old 07-28-2016, 06:53 AM   #2010
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You can do math to figure out a pinion/spur combo that gives close to the same ratio:

31 / 69 = 0.449
72 x 0.449 = 32.328
31/69 is really close to 32/72
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