649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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07-26-2016, 06:46 PM
#1981
Tech Addict
iTrader: (18)
I went to softer springs front and rear, also went from 2mm to 1mm spacer on the akerman and that settled it down a little.
Last edited by TAW; 07-26-2016 at 07:34 PM.
07-26-2016, 07:51 PM
#1985
White/Green seems to be the way to go if you are sticking with Associated and running the laydown. Coach isn't running the laydown.
07-26-2016, 08:06 PM
#1986
Inconsistent rates. I had AE whites almost twice as stiff as their "rating". Then had greens softer than blacks.
07-26-2016, 09:49 PM
#1987
Tech Apprentice
Yes my son ran his box stock on our high bite carpet track and we had some issues. I couldn't get the ride height below 18mm os we had some tracking rolling. The car is very reactive and almost twitchy with the stock setup/springs.
I went to softer springs front and rear, also went from 2mm to 1mm spacer on the akerman and that settled it down a little.
I went to softer springs front and rear, also went from 2mm to 1mm spacer on the akerman and that settled it down a little.
07-27-2016, 06:01 AM
#1991
If you have a drill press and a scale you can measure lbs./in. pretty easily.
I had a Dremel stand that I got cheap from a friend that does the same thing --
http://razorrc.tumblr.com/post/14297.../spring-tester
I had a Dremel stand that I got cheap from a friend that does the same thing --
http://razorrc.tumblr.com/post/14297.../spring-tester
07-27-2016, 06:05 AM
#1992
When I ran mine for the first time (B6D w/laydown), I ran the kit white/green on our local indoor very high grip clay track. They felt really good. I will try other springs, but I'm almost positive i'll come back to the white/green. They have a really good balanced feel. I was also running the VRP 2x1.6 front and 2x1.7 rear with optional hard valves.
07-27-2016, 06:21 AM
#1993
Integy makes a small tool for measuring spring rates. You install an empty shock and plunge to a depth. (Tip, you have to preload the spring in order to get an accurate spring rate)
Just a heads up, the spring rate doesn't change much over time. The spring load (height at a given load) can change and that is why you sometimes need to turn the collars down further to get the same ride height.
We have a good industrial tester here at work but there's no way I'm shelling out $20 for a single pair of Kyosho springs to measure. We use high temperature springs that cost a fraction of that. Even made in the US.
Just a heads up, the spring rate doesn't change much over time. The spring load (height at a given load) can change and that is why you sometimes need to turn the collars down further to get the same ride height.
We have a good industrial tester here at work but there's no way I'm shelling out $20 for a single pair of Kyosho springs to measure. We use high temperature springs that cost a fraction of that. Even made in the US.
