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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 07-19-2016, 02:29 PM   #1741
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You continue to use the word "developing." While I do recognize that you helped identify that you could cobble together pucks, the word "development" is typically reserved for those designing and producing something. Perhaps tuning is a better word moving forward?
Sure, you can have a play on my words. However, to me, I developed a setup, I developed changes that made the car go around the track without flat spinning constantly. I developed parts (Schelle slipper) with the help of a few friends to get it to fit. I figured out the bearings and shimming to make it work perfect.

I then reached out directly to exotek to get the ball rolling on some MUCH needed changes; a brass C mount, a change in standard toe and anti squat, as well as help develop the alloy D mount that was a problem from day one.

I developed the fix for the rear droop; only for Xray to copy it 2 months later. I'm just a college student who races as much as he can, and loves to take what I learn in engineering school and try to apply it here in a racing environment.

We can go on and on, but all I'm doing is stroking my ego and getting farther off topic.

Don't like my posts? Don't read them; there's an ignore feature, please, use it. Or, ask RC-tech for a refund on my advice, I'm sure they'd love to.
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Old 07-19-2016, 02:38 PM   #1742
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I am just starting to assemble the front end of my B6.. I see the steering link (ballcups) is a bit tight to the ball studs. Is that normal?
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Old 07-19-2016, 02:40 PM   #1743
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I am just starting to assemble the front end of my B6.. I see the steering link (ballcups) is a bit tight to the ball studs. Is that normal?
You can pinch them with some pliers while they are on the ball to free them up a little
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Old 07-19-2016, 02:40 PM   #1744
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Not worth going back and forth on this one as I was just offering a suggestion. You were a massive proponent of the XB2 and no doubt helped people get further with it than they would've without your contribution.

I would argue that getting the ball rolling and making requests to Exotek set them up to develop what was needed. Did you help identify the issue? Absolutely? Did you get into the design and materials side of things? Sounds like maybe.

If you don't like my suggestion I have no doubt you'll stick with whatever terminology works for you.
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Old 07-19-2016, 02:43 PM   #1745
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Not worth going back and forth on this one as I was just offering a suggestion. You were a massive proponent of the XB2 and no doubt helped people get further with it than they would've without your contribution.

I would argue that getting the ball rolling and making requests to Exotek set them up to develop what was needed. Did you help identify the issue? Absolutely? Did you get into the design any materials side of things? Sounds like maybe.

If you don't like my suggestion I have no doubt you'll stick with whatever terminology works for you.
You know by now I'm hard headed enough I definitely will.

After 4 months of XRAY, I matched my XB2 speed with my B6D in 4 battery packs. Maybe my "development" wasn't that good.
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Old 07-19-2016, 02:43 PM   #1746
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I got some new outdrives today to go with my B6 and B6D cut gears.

You know, copying others...Oh wait, no one else in the country has B6/B6D cut gears...or these outdrives


only one huh
First off, i have a lathe and made cuts gears day 1

second i've been running symilar diff outdrives for over a year in b5
made them in house

nothing new here

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Old 07-19-2016, 02:53 PM   #1747
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First off i have a lathe and made cuts gears day 1

second i've been running those diff outdrives for over a year in b5
made them in house

nothing new here
gonna have to pull a trans apart just to picture
The drilled out drives was done a while ago. pictures appeared on liverc around cactus last year i think. I know a couple locals were doing it. Still, stuff like this is what makes this truly a hobby. Socket didnt invent the lightened out-drives, but he took the initiative to do his own.
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Old 07-19-2016, 02:55 PM   #1748
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only one huh
First off, i have a lathe and made cuts gears day 1 cool story, how was he to know

second i've been running symilar diff outdrives for over a year in b5
made them in house again, cool

nothing new here
gonna have to pull a trans apart just to picture don't worry about it, we believe you
...
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Old 07-19-2016, 03:02 PM   #1749
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only one huh
First off, i have a lathe and made cuts gears day 1

second i've been running symilar diff outdrives for over a year in b5
made them in house

nothing new here

Looks good. I turned my top shaft down also. Good work soldier.

Edit: Now, drill the diff gear out between the bearing and the diff balls. A lot of material to go there as well.
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Old 07-19-2016, 03:07 PM   #1750
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Looks good. I turned my top shaft down also. Good work soldier.

Edit: Now, drill the diff gear out between the bearing and the diff balls. A lot of material to go there as well.
already machined some gear diff outdrives to fit brass rollers in pucks,,
was not easy, material is so hard,, but works well, wares the brass rollers

if you land hard on one side ,, the outdrive can scar the shaft,, but price of going fast,, can break the bone/shaft
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Old 07-19-2016, 03:09 PM   #1751
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already machined some gear diff outdrives to fit brass rollers in pucks,,
works well,

if you land hard on one side ,, the outdrive can scar the shaft,, but price of going fast,, can break the bone/shaft
Can you take away some material at the end of the outdrive to prevent this?
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Old 07-19-2016, 03:10 PM   #1752
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I went with 1.6 30 and 1.7 27.5 this last weekend on a low bite wet loamy track. It was great! Remember, this car is lighter than the b5m lite! I also used the most narrow rear pivot. Using the alum D block I took the centered 1 inserts and turned them all inwards. I didn't yet have my brass c mount or 4gear and the car was great!
For our tracks the 35/30 setup is a good starting point for any car (B5 and B5m so far)...
How much reduced weight we are talking about compared to a B5m FL (and what does it mean?)

Your suggestions seems way way more softer than what I plan to do and kinda know....
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Old 07-19-2016, 03:12 PM   #1753
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Can you take away some material at the end of the outdrive to prevent this?

ya... doing any kind of machining to hardened outdrive is like a career!!!
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Old 07-19-2016, 03:13 PM   #1754
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For our tracks the 35/30 setup is a good starting point for any car (B5 and B5m so far)...
How much reduced weight we are talking about compared to a B5m FL (and what does it mean?)

Your suggestions seems way way more softer than what I plan to do and kinda know....
B5M FL = B5m Factory lite

usually 20-30 grams lighter than that car on average, stock for stock.
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Old 07-19-2016, 03:14 PM   #1755
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ya... doing any kind of machining to hardened outdrive is like a career!!!
I have zero interest in machining hardened steel.

I did however order the Bimetal diff kit for the roller pucks. Going to drill those drive plates as well, and use the alloy bones with my ti axles.
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