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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 07-17-2016, 11:47 PM   #1666
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SDRC is closing??
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Old 07-17-2016, 11:55 PM   #1667
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SDRC is closing??
No
I don't live in SD any more
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Old 07-17-2016, 11:58 PM   #1668
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Originally Posted by Allen Drebi View Post
Just finished building all of this and found out our track is closing for good next week
That's RC racing in the Pacific Northwest for ya. I'll be there Saturday for the farewell race.
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Old 07-18-2016, 02:22 AM   #1669
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Raced my B6 on carpet last night...haven't driven for two months due to work, got third in the A, best result in ages!

Went to 0mm on rack for more initial steering, and went long wheelbase in rear, both improvements for our track. Laid front shocks in on tower too...still not quite enough initial steering but tonnes on exit.

Really impressed with the car; I need to drive it better and investigate the set up a bit more...but great first outing.
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Old 07-18-2016, 08:34 AM   #1670
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Originally Posted by abailey21 View Post
I did leave them out. I found it moved the servo just too far fwd and the link was level without them
thanks. This only my second build. I didn't know if it was supposed to be forward like that for some reason. The instructions didn't have any notation saying "optional for servo placement" or anything of the like. Your wiring looks good BTW.
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Old 07-18-2016, 09:08 AM   #1671
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Nice setup. How's that motor at ocrc btw and gearing? Was thinking of trying one.


QUOTE=tropmonky;14603754]I thought I'd post pics of my ride with wiring for you. I kept the blue anodized turnbuckles since my paint job has a lot of blue, however I did use my B5M blacked out shock accessories.

I started with the Kody Numedahl setup and made a couple tweaks to suit stock racing at OCRC a little more. I ran Expert Stock and qualified 2nd and finished 3rd in the A-main. A few more tweaks and it'll be even faster. Great car!

Build notes: Mostly titanium scews, a few stainless screws where I didn't have ti for the right size, titanium turnbuckles, full size shorty battery, standard stock body, AKA pinstripe front and Crosslink rears (clay)= 1503g total racing weight.



[/QUOTE]

Awesome looking build. I was also considering that exotek slipper eliminator, but on exotek's page, it doesn't have the B6 under the list of cars that the slipper eliminator will fit on. did you have to make any other changes to make it fit?

Side question, why is everyone running the laydown transmission in the B6D? what does that do for you?
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Old 07-18-2016, 09:22 AM   #1672
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It's a cheaper method to get a car with flat arms and a ball diff.

Most really liked the flat front arms on the B5M, and that's why the Lite car came with them stock.

When it came B6 time, most went right to the flat arms but wanted a laydown with the ball diff.

The B6D is massively successful because for $330 (with coupons) you can have virtually two cars. Laydown and stand up, flat and gulls. The price of AE parts are stellar.
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Old 07-18-2016, 09:56 AM   #1673
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The lay down transmission moves weight lower and forward, obviously. The benefit is when the track has enough traction, the landowners transmission will allow the car to stay flatter and therefore carry more corner speed. On lower grip tracks the stand up transmission allows more weight to transfer to the rear, increasing grip.
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Old 07-18-2016, 10:35 AM   #1674
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Originally Posted by Arn0 View Post
Thanks but I found this one, but still no setup sheet showing what he ran, just pics. Looking for setup sheet...thanks
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Old 07-18-2016, 10:44 AM   #1675
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Originally Posted by _danimal_ View Post
That's RC racing in the Pacific Northwest for ya. I'll be there Saturday for the farewell race.
It's a growing trend. Most people complain about the race fees, and don't buy their parts at their local hobby shop because they are cheaper online. They say if you want to make a small fortune in the RC business, start with a huge fortune.
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Old 07-18-2016, 10:50 AM   #1676
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
Finally got to run my b6. The car is really good. Great corner speed and the car is easy to work on.
what kind of track did you run at?
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Old 07-18-2016, 10:51 AM   #1677
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what kind of track did you run at?
He runs at SRS
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Old 07-18-2016, 11:41 AM   #1678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Cut line "a" is only the rear portion. You do not cut towards the spur gear, that's for cut line C.

A on the left, C on the right

The key is wrong. Long Dash is A, Solid line is C. The A is already cut in the picture.
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Old 07-18-2016, 11:45 AM   #1679
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Quote:
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what kind of track did you run at?
clay slicks on a wet clay surface. Traction is fairly good.
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Old 07-18-2016, 12:16 PM   #1680
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ANyone using the MIP alum t-nut with the B6 kit outdrives? Any issue with fitment? I cant stand the new AE plastic t-nut.
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