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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 07-17-2016, 04:24 PM   #1651
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awidz View Post
Anyone know where I can find this, I just got my b6 and can only find cavaliers setup, ANY help would be appreciated. Cavalieri ran rear shocks in back of arm and rivkin ran them in front of arm. I want to put rivkin setup on my car.....thanks
I haven't seen any photos showing Cavalieri's shocks on the rear, all the photos I've seen show on the front of the arm... maybe an error on the setup sheet?
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Old 07-17-2016, 04:40 PM   #1652
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awidz View Post
Anyone know where I can find this, I just got my b6 and can only find cavaliers setup, ANY help would be appreciated. CavaLirI ran rear shocks in back of arm and rivkin ran them in front of arm. I want to put rivkin setup on my car.....thanks
http://www.reedyrace.com/ae/spotligh...aRC/index.html
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Old 07-17-2016, 04:53 PM   #1653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
It's no longer available on the AE website and PEtitRC direct linked to their website IIRC.
Quote:
Originally Posted by awidz View Post
So it cannot be found?
http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...oma2016051215/

Available from here: http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...tedRC10B6.html
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Old 07-17-2016, 04:59 PM   #1654
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Arno - he wants this one.

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...gring20160430/
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Old 07-17-2016, 05:01 PM   #1655
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
That would be this link..

http://www.reedyrace.com/ae/spotligh...EOS/index.html
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Old 07-17-2016, 05:02 PM   #1656
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Correction done: http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...gring20160430/
And Ryan's one as well: http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...gring20160429/
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Old 07-17-2016, 07:16 PM   #1657
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The JConcepts Aluminum wing mounts from the B5M do NOT fit the B6D. The B6D wing mounts are longer and have a narrower taper at the end to fit inside the CF shock tower. Also, the JConcepts front axle with clamping hex does NOT fit the B6D. The JConcepts axle is too short and the hole for the hex pin does not clear the B6D caster block bushing.
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Old 07-17-2016, 07:23 PM   #1658
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Finally got to run my b6. The car is really good. Great corner speed and the car is easy to work on.
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Old 07-17-2016, 08:40 PM   #1659
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http://www.redrc.net/2016/07/mip-b65...t/#more-116069



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Old 07-17-2016, 09:12 PM   #1660
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abailey21 View Post
Just finished wiring mine. I'm by no means good but i've found I don't like the battery strap or the waterfall for clean wiring.

I see you are using a protek 160T servo, as am I. I can't tell from the pictures but did you leave out the plastic spacers on the servo mounts?
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Old 07-17-2016, 09:31 PM   #1661
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolarRoller View Post
I see you are using a protek 160T servo, as am I. I can't tell from the pictures but did you leave out the plastic spacers on the servo mounts?
I did leave them out. I found it moved the servo just too far fwd and the link was level without them
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Old 07-17-2016, 09:52 PM   #1662
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Gierse View Post
The B6 manual is incorrect on the cut lines. On the diagram it lists Cut Line A as the solid line. It should be the long dash. Cut Line C should be the solid line.

I have found a few other mistakes and haven't even built the kit yet. Just been looking through it.
I cut the body following line A (laydown w/shocks in rear) which looks wrong to me considering the spur gear is now completely exposed. I contacted AE and they said the manual is correct. how can that be possible?


Thank you for contacting Team Associated's Customer Support.
Based on what you are telling me the diagram is actually correct.
Cutline A shows least amount of cutting of the body to cover the spur gear while Cultine C shows the cut out for the spurgear.



just trying to confirm I am not taking crazy pills


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Old 07-17-2016, 09:59 PM   #1663
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Cut line "a" is only the rear portion. You do not cut towards the spur gear, that's for cut line C.

A on the left, C on the right

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Old 07-17-2016, 10:28 PM   #1664
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i see now what they're getting at, but essentially A and C are backwards; the key/legend shows line A as the solid line, which in the picture shows the cutout for the gear cover/stand up transmission.
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Old 07-17-2016, 11:34 PM   #1665
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Just finished building all of this and found out our track is closing for good next week


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