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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 07-14-2016, 10:38 AM   #1486
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Anyone else think this plastic feels different? stiffer?
to me softer, I could thread the turn buckles on with just my hands.
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Old 07-14-2016, 10:38 AM   #1487
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I think it's to provide clearance for larger spur gears.
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Old 07-14-2016, 10:39 AM   #1488
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Is the servo supposed to angle up towards the front like this? I'm getting clearance issues with the linkage and the top plate:

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Old 07-14-2016, 10:44 AM   #1489
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to me softer, I could thread the turn buckles on with just my hands.
turnbuckles were fine, I used a 3m tap on mine and bees wax. But, the 3mx10mm screws engaged my clutch on my driver before i was expecting it, and they just "feel" different.
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Old 07-14-2016, 10:46 AM   #1490
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Is the servo supposed to angle up towards the front like this? I'm getting clearance issues with the linkage and the top plate:

where is it hitting on the top plate. I used a different horn on mine, so hard to compare, but I did need to use the supplied servo spacers to more the servo forward.
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Old 07-14-2016, 10:53 AM   #1491
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where is it hitting on the top plate. I used a different horn on mine, so hard to compare, but I did need to use the supplied servo spacers to more the servo forward.
So with zero servo spacers and 0mm ballstud spacers, its hits the top chassis brace:

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Old 07-14-2016, 10:53 AM   #1492
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using B5m servo mounts will move the servo up a bit too.

edit: is that ball cup on backwards? i know that won't address this issue though...
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Old 07-14-2016, 10:56 AM   #1493
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I think I figured it out: I'm not using the servo spacer, and if you don't then the bottom servo mounting screws are too long and push in on the mount and angle the whole servo up as seen in the first pic.
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Old 07-14-2016, 10:57 AM   #1494
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Originally Posted by tsair View Post
So with zero servo spacers and 0mm ballstud spacers, its hits the top chassis brace:

is it touching the top plate in that picture. hard to tell
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Old 07-14-2016, 10:59 AM   #1495
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is your servo tightened down? does not look like it. looks like the servo might be tilted backwards
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Old 07-14-2016, 11:05 AM   #1496
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Originally Posted by tsair View Post
So with zero servo spacers and 0mm ballstud spacers, its hits the top chassis brace:

Where is the 2mm ballstud washer on your servo horn?
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Old 07-14-2016, 11:09 AM   #1497
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Originally Posted by tsair View Post
So with zero servo spacers and 0mm ballstud spacers, its hits the top chassis brace:

Are your screws tightened that mount the servo to the chassis fully screwed down? That might help level the servo out.
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Old 07-14-2016, 11:11 AM   #1498
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrLean View Post
The lower wing mount is cool, but can someone explain what the rear body mount is for?
It's for the B6 with rear tower in forward position. It provides a shelf for the rear of the body to rest on.
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Old 07-14-2016, 11:14 AM   #1499
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I got it figured out, thanks guys. You have to use the plastic spacers. My servo is pretty far forward, so I removed them instead of the ballstud washer. To answer my original question, the servo should not be angled -- if it is, something is seriously wrong!

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Where is the 2mm ballstud washer on your servo horn?
I don't think I need it... ideally, the link should be at 90 degrees from the bellcrank arm, am I right? It's already past 90 degrees without the 2mm ballstud washer.

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Old 07-14-2016, 11:21 AM   #1500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsair View Post
I got it figured out, thanks guys. You have to use the plastic spacers. My servo is pretty far forward, so I removed them instead of the ballstud washer. To answer my original question, the servo should not be angled -- if it is, something is seriously wrong!



I don't think I need it... ideally, the link should be at 90 degrees from the bellcrank arm, am I right? It's already past 90 degrees without the 2mm ballstud washer.

my holes would not line up without the spacers.
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