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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Last edit by: RCBuddha
Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 04-29-2016, 06:16 AM   #1
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Default Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread

***THIS PAGE WILL BE UPDATED WITH REGULARITY. IF YOU SEE SOMETHING THAT SHOULD BE ON THE FIRST PAGE, PLEASE PM ME OR POST TO THE THREAD SO THAT I CAN SEE. THANKS!***


B6:







Features:

Turf/Carpet/Clay configuration
3-gear laydown Stealth(TM) transmission: lower CG and reduced polar moment
Gear diffential: more corner speed and forward acceleration
Gull-wing front arms with wider shock tower: lower CG and increased on-power steering
Ability to mount shocks on front or rear of rear arms
Hard anodized aluminum pocketed chassis included. Optional weights (not included) allow weight bias tuning.
Reverse bell-crank steering rack design allows more room for electronics
Repositioned A plate provides maximum front end clearance
One-piece steering blocks with bolt on Ackermann plate
Lightweight and durable aluminum C plate and aluminum ball stud mount
Updated ball cups and turnbuckles for precise adjustments and durability
Adjustable battery hold-down strap allows weight bias tuning
Aluminum front axle and rear hexes for less rotating mass and long-lasting durability
V2 12mm "Big Bore" threaded aluminum shocks with 3mm TiN coated shafts and low friction x-rings for improved smoothness
Factory Team Aluminum Shock Bushings provide stable shock mounts
Heavy-duty rear axle for added strength
Factory Team upgraded ball bearings
Team Associated clear body and screw-mounted wing by JConcepts(TM)


B6D









Features:

Clay/Hard Dirt/Loose Dirt configuration
Standup 3-gear Stealth(TM) transmission: more rearward weight for increased rear traction
Ball differential: more rear traction and stability
Flat front arms with narrower shock tower: more responsive steering and quicker release out of corner
Hard anodized aluminum pocketed chassis included. Optional weights (not included) allow weight bias tuning.
Centralized motor positioning for optimum side-to-side balance
Repositioned A plate provides maximum front end clearance
One-piece steering blocks with bolt on Ackermann plate
Lightweight and durable aluminum C plate and aluminum ball stud mount
Updated ball cups and turnbuckles for precise adjustments and durability
Adjustable battery hold-down strap allows weight bias tuning
Aluminum front axle and rear hexes for less rotating mass and long-lasting durability
V2 12mm "Big Bore" threaded aluminum shocks with 3mm TiN coated shafts and low friction x-rings for improved smoothness
Factory Team Aluminum Shock Bushings provide stable shock mounts
Heavy-duty rear axle for added strength
Factory Team upgraded ball bearings
Team Associated clear body and screw-mounted wing by JConcepts(TM)


B6 Club Racer





Features:

Reedy Sonic 540 17.5 Fixed Timing motor produces maximum power output and RPM thanks to an all new stator design, pure copper magnet wire, and low-resistance collector rings. ROAR approved and meets BRCA and IFMAR specs.
Reedy's Blackbox 600Z Zero Timing Sensored Brushless Competition ESC is a simple-to-use yet powerful ESC for Spec class racers. Excellent throttle and brake feel, a wide range of adjustability, and robust hardware make the Blackbox 600Z suitable for a variety of Spec racing applications.
The Reedy 0712MG Metal Gear Digital Servo is race-proven and features numerous enhancements including precision metal gears for added strength and smooth operation, and an advanced microprocessor that improves vehicle control and on-track performance.
Lightweight, hard-anodized aluminum chassis with centralized mass for improved handling on all track types
Reverse bellcrank steering allows more room for mounting electronics
Bolt-on steering block arms for increased adjustability
Aluminum rear ball stud mount for added strength
V2 12mm Big Bore threaded aluminum shocks with 3mm shafts and X-rings for improved smoothness
3-gear transmission for lower rotating mass and extra acceleration
Lightweight aluminum top shaft
Lightweight aluminum front axle with laser etching
Factory Team ball bearing kit included
Ball differential for more rear traction and stability
JConcepts(TM) B6 clear body and wing included

Last edited by RCBuddha; 08-02-2017 at 07:32 AM.
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Old 04-29-2016, 06:16 AM   #2
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USEFUL LINKS

Instruction Manuals:

B6: https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/c...0B6_manual.pdf

B6D: https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/c...B6D_manual.pdf

B6 Club Racer: https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/c...acer-90013.pdf

Recommended Titanium Screws/Screw locations (courtesy of Team Associated):

Suggested Titanium screws for B6/B6D

Setup Sheets:

B6: https://www.teamassociated.com/cars_...anuals_setups/

B6D: https://www.teamassociated.com/cars_...anuals_setups/

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...tedRC10B6.html - PetitRC's setup database
Tuning with Camber Links - Long read, and a different way to tune your car, but it can make more sense for some.
Razathorn's Camber Link Tuning Guide
Roll Center explanation by EvanJay
Darcness's Tuning Guide
Martin Crisp's Car Tuning Guide - Onroad oriented, but very informative.
Learnsetup.com - App based setup sheets. Also by Martin Crisp, $10/year subscription.
Anti Squat article
http://users.telenet.be/elvo/ - Great tuning guide, lots of explanations of setup and suspension theory.

How to set your slipper, rebuild your diff and adjust your ball diff (courtesy of Racer53):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IIYPo..._order&list=UL

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ct1CU...eature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKpW9..._order&list=UL

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_XZCp..._order&list=UL

How to build your ball diff (via Team Associated's youtube channel):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AB7-q...sdtQb2fzebdyog

How to build and bleed your shocks (via Team Associated's youtube channel):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hU6B...sdtQb2fzebdyog

How to scuff your wing:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aXcNgp_2FME

Other Diff building/adjusting videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uI0MbCcWdBA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_u9yKV2TPM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VMobqSS3JkI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uf0do3YArfM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EToj2yX76NU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oh8_YrZ-gbI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p89bXi9ppXI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=srrh3TUh2Ug
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0eHjVcJEDY0


How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Last edited by RCBuddha; 08-08-2017 at 06:12 PM.
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Old 04-29-2016, 06:17 AM   #3
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AFTERMARKET PARTS:

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Parts from Shapeways:
*NOTE: I will not be listing every waterfall with fan mount, there will simply be too many*
rear wing mount spacer
Lower front wing mount
rear body mount support
Schelle/Avid Slipper eliminator
Exotek-style slipper eliminator
Rear wing mount
B6 Ball cup tool (works with drill)
Ball cup holder
B6 rear lipo brace

3DRC Shapeways store:
3DRC Store

Jconcepts Shapeways store:
Jconcepts Shapeways

JB Carbon:
3 gear split laydown gearbox

RCSpeedsecrets:
Fan mounts
Cut gears

Rawspeed R/C:
Carbon battery strap
B6 rear shock tower
Long rear shock tower
B6d front tower

RCShox:
Flo Control Pistons
Flo control pistons (Kashima)
Garodisc VTS slipper pads

ProStarRC:
Titanium Hinge Pin Set

Trinity:
Chassis protector

Diggity R/C:
CF Motor Plate
Long rear tower
Carbon rear tower
Gull wing Carbon front tower
Flat Arm Carbon Front Tower
Carbon Fiber Battery strap (AE Logo)
Carbon fiber Battery strap
Carbon Fiber Steering plates

3DGY:
Spur gear cover for laydown transmission

Xfactory R/C:
Tall rear shock tower
Rear shock tower
Gull wing front shock tower
Flat arm front shock tower
Carbon Fiber Idler shaft

RDRP:
Brass Gear box brace
Titanium Shock mounts
Brass D mount
Brass C mount
Brass front bulkhead
brass electronics plate
Titanium battery screws
Titanium shock mount set
Titanium front axles
Carbon front bulkhead brace
Carbon steering rack brace
Titainum hige pin set
Carbon rear tower
Gull Wing shock tower
Flat Arm shock tower
Alum wing buttons
Carbon Electronic mounting plate
Carbon Fiber battery plate

Acer Racing:
B6 Ceramic Bearing Kit

SlickDiffz:
SlickDiffz (diff rings/balls/thrusts)

Bezerk RC (Australia):
Shorty Carbon battery strap
Saddle pack carbon battery strap
Tall carbon rear shock tower
Standard carbon rear tower
Flat arm carbon front tower
Gull wing arm carbon front tower

T-Works:
Hard coated pivot ball
Aluminum chassis weight (servo)
Aluminum chassis weight (ESC)
Titanium battery post
POM shock bushings shaft guide
POM shock bushings
Caster block bushing set (0,1,1.5,2,3 degree)
Hat bushings (1&2 degree)
hat busings (0&3 degree)
Hybrid titanium and aluminum turnbuckles
titanium turnbuckles

ZZ Racing:
B6 Titanium Screw Set
B6D Titanium screw set

McKune R/C:
Slipper pads

Factory R/C:
Carbon Fiber Lockout for Schelle slipper

Acer Racing:
Ceramic bearing kit

Vision Racing Products:
Aluminum turnbuckle battery mount
Alum rear tower with option holes
Alum rear tower with option holes +2mm
Alum front shock tower (flat)
Alum front shock tower (flat w/option holes)
Alum front shock tower (gullwing)
B6 Aluminum motor plate
Aluminum Ballast set
Slipper pads

Casper R/C Ceramic Caged Thrust Bearing for Diff:
Casper R/C

Imbue R/C:
12mm Brass pistons

Stick-it1 Graphics (custom name decals)
Stick-it1 Graphics

RCShox:
2-Stage shock pistons
Garodisc Slipper Pads - new style
Garodisc Slipper Pads - old style

Protek:
Pan Car Sized 2S pack for stock racing
Lightweight chassis protectors
"Thick" Chassis protectors

Factory One Shock Bushings:
http://www.factoryone-rc.com/

Fastener-Express:
Fastener Express Screws in Bulk

TKO Competition:
TKO Flat diff rings
Carbon Fiber Slipper pads
Bearing Lube
Gearbox Lube

MIP:
mip puck outdrives for gear diff
Race Top Shaft
Puck gear diff outdrives
Bi Metal Roller Pucks
Bi Metal Diff kit
Puck drive system
Carbide Diff Ball rebuild kit
Diff shim kit for puck system

AVID:
Titanium front axles
Shock Standoffs
Titanium battery post with aluminum nuts
7mm clamping hexes
CF battery strap
titanium wing screws
Carbon Steering Blocks
Titanium Steering Screws
Titanium Screw Kit
Titanium Battery post and Aluminum Nuts
Carbon steering blocks
Titanium Ball Studs
Bearing kit builder
Ceramic Thrust balls
Carbide Diff balls
Ceramic Transmission bearings for B6
Ceramic Trasmission bearings for B6D
Aluminum spring cups
Black threaded shock collars
Black shock caps
Black alum shock collars and caps
Triad Aluminum Wing buttons
Aluminum wing buttons

SCHELLE:
Extreme Carbon fibter strap
CF X Brace for Chassis turnbuckle
Laydown motor mount with spur guard
Aluminum steering bushings
Pro Built Ball diff w/ bi metal outdrives
Pro Built ball diff with Puck outdrives
Pro built Ball diff
Nova Lockout Drive
B6 Laydown spur gear cover
Flat arm Carbon front tower
31 mm rear tower
Front wing mount
Carbon steering arms
Titanium motor screws
Carbon fiber battery strap
Nova Slipper
Chassis protector
B6D rear hubs
Alum wing buttons
Titanium upper screw set

JCONCEPTS:
Alum Servo mount
CF Battery brace
CF steering arms
CF rear tower
CF Gullwing front tower
CF flat arm front tower
0mm offset alum spring cup
Combo 7mm and 5.5 mm wrench
3 gear laydown plate
3 gear standup plate
Aluminum steering bellcranks
Aluminum steering rack
Finnisher Wing buttons
Short Cord Rear Wing
Aero Rear Wing
Wide Gullwing front wing
Narrow Gullwing front wing
Wide Flat arm front wing
Narrow Flat arm front wing
Titanium front axles
Finnisher Alum wing buttons
Titanium front axles
Shock Collar O-ring set
Fin Titanium Turnbuckles
Chassis protectors
S2 Body with Aero Wing
S2 body (lightweight) with aero wing

JCONCEPTS (SHAPEWAYS STORE):
Lower front wing mount
rear wing wedge
Rear wing mount, one piece
compact battery strap for tall reedy zapper
compact battery strap for LP reedy shorty
B6 rear bumper
laydown gear shield
"Elephant trunk" waterfall
B6 rear body mount flange
Front wing mount (lower)

LUNSFORD:
Titanium Turnbuckles
B6 Titanium screw kit
B6D Titanium Screw Kit

EXOTEK:
Clamping Fan mount
CF Battery strap w/turnbuckle
Black direct spur gear adapter
"Flite" motor plate
Titanium dog bones for bi-metal puck system
titanium quick change shock posts (rear)
titanium quick change shock posts (front)
one piece alum camber mount
Alloy Spring Perch 0
Alloy Spring perch +5
Clamping servo horn 25t
Clamping servo horn 23t
Aluminum Rear Clamping Hex
Slipper Eliminator (pending)
Aluminum Wing Buttons
Anodized lower shock caps
Aluminum threaded collars

PROLINE:
Proline Predator
Chassis protector

OTHER LINKS

Gravity R/C:
.2mm thick shims
Drill-compatible adapter to help spin wheel for bench break-in
Offroad tire break-in kit

Mcpappy Pinion Carrier:
Pinion Tree, 64 pitch, but you could probably fit 48 pitch ones.

Stiky Kicks Tire Sauce:
Sticky Kicks

Last edited by RCBuddha; 06-07-2017 at 10:54 AM.
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Old 04-29-2016, 06:17 AM   #4
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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS

Q: Which car should I get?
A: Buy both if you can afford it. Or buy one that you think you need and wait for a used one of the other to buy at a discounted price. Much like the B5M/B5, having two cars can allow you to adjust to varying track conditions.

Conversely, you can buy the laydown transmission parts so that you can change a B6D to now have a laydown transmission.

See the Q&A below for the full parts list needed to change a B6D to add a laydown transmission.

The other questions you have to ask yourself is:

What kind of surface am I running on? Is it high bite or low bite? Carpet or dirt?

Here's some perspective from AeRayls:

"The only reason to buy the B6 is if you plan to run carpet or turf, that's it!

For any other surface including switching back and forth between dirt/turf/carpet etc buy the B6D and any parts to convert as it'll be cheaper and easier."

Here's break down from Kody Numendahl via facebook:

There seems to be some confusion about which car to buy between the B6 and B6D. A lay down gear box isn't the only difference between the two kits. The B6 also comes with a gear diff and gull-wing arms/tower. I attached a photo showing some common configurations that drivers will want to run and which kit I would recommend for each.




Q: What are some good setups for medium to low-traction tracks?
A: See this response from Ray Munday

Quote:
Originally Posted by ray_munday View Post
Hi all,

Based on lots of testing and racing down here in Australia (and at the Reedy Outdoor race), I have compiled a setup guide for the B6D on these sorts of tracks. The platform is hugely adjustable and we are learning all of the time, but I hope this helps some of you running on lower grip / bumpier tracks.

Any questions, hit up my help thread, send a PM or hit me up on Facebook.

Setup guide pdf on this post:
Ask Ray Munday - JConcepts, Reedy, Associated Aussie Support Thread

Additional notes and setups on this post:
Ask Ray Munday - JConcepts, Reedy, Associated Aussie Support Thread

Petitrc has compiled it here:
http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...oorSetupGuide/

Even in French!!
http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...uide/francais/
Q: Can I mount my transponder vertically?
A: Yes, you can, but the instructions state to mount it horizontally as low as you can off of the chassis:




Q: Can I mount the shocks on the front of the arm?
A: Yes, however you can only do this with the laydown transmission.

Q: What is the difference between shocks on the front of the tower/arm and shocks on the rear of the tower/arm?
A: It changes the weight bias of the car. Shocks on the front takes weight off the rear axle, and makes the car rotate faster. This is optimal on very high bite tracks, or tracks with a lot of 180's. Shocks on the rear is more common in the US, as it provides more rear bite and also makes the car react slower.

Q: Do I need to sand and glue the carbon fiber shock towers?
A: You don't have to, but it's highly recommended. See the useful links section on how to do it.

Q: Can I use my B5 servo mounts in the B6?
A: Yes! Be aware that the mount will push the servo forward a few mm, but it will work.

Q: Can I use an aftermarket aluminum servo horn on my servo?
A: Yes, you can. You may need to adjust the spacing on your servo to accommodate for the offset difference between servo horns.

Q: Can Schelle or AE B5M alloy hubs work on the B6/B6D?
A: Yes - they can. However you lose the height adjustment that the factory hubs have. No word yet on an alloy version of the height adjustable stock hubs.

Q: Will the B6 work on dirt/clay?
A: Yes, it will. Which one works better for your particular track will depend on how much experimentation you do and how high the traction is.

Q: What parts transfer from the B5m to the B6/B6D?
A: http://www.rcten.com/threads/b5-b6-b...ty-list.20367/

Q: Are the C and D mounts the same on the B6D as the B5M?
A: No, they are different.

Q: Does the B5m body work on the B6/B6D?
A: No.

Q: Can I put my B5M diff into the B6/B6D?
A: Yes, with shimming.

Q: What parts do I need to add a 4 gear transmission to my B6D?
A:*Thanks to 190mph for the list* You will need the following parts:

91707 Standup 4 gear gearbox cases
91714 Standup 4 gear motor plate
91711 Standup 4 gear dust cover
91717 Idler gears 26T
91132 Idler Shafts
91560 Pack of 5x10x4 FT Bearings

Also there is a specific Factory Team Spotlight page on 4 Gear setup for Outdoors tracks typically:
http://www.reedyrace.com/ae/spotligh...4Gear_Chassis/

Q: What parts do I need to add a lay-down transmission to my B6D?
A: *thanks to Boucher starting the list*
You will need the following parts (complete list coming soon):

91708 Laydown gearbox
91709 Chassis braces
91715 Laydown motor plate
91716 Idler gear
91739 Body
91703 Gear diff (if desired)
91709 Waterfall

OR YOU CAN GET THIS:

91705 B6 laydown transmission conversion

Q: What would I need to covert a B6 to a B6D?
A: You will need:

91706 Gear Box (3-gear)
91713 motor plate (3 gear)
91707 Gear Box (4 gear)
91714 motor plate (4 gear)
91709 Waterfall
91717 Idler gear
91711 Gear cover (4 gear)
91712 Gear cover (3 gear)
91739 Body
91663 Gull wing tower
91673 Gull wing arms
91702 Ball diff

Q: Why did AE change the ball cup design?
A: Here's the answer from AE's Tim Tunnerman: "The new ball cups are smaller in outer diameter, more enclosed to help keep debris out and improved consistency and fitment. Particularly under load."

Q: What are the turnbuckles made of?
A: Nickel Plated Spring Steel

Q: How can I fit my B5M diffs in my B6/D?
A: The B6 diffs are 2mm wider (1mm per side). The new part number for the gear diff includes the needed spacers so you can run the B5 series gear diff in the B6. They are just using the rear axle spacers they made for when using the +4 C/D mounts on the B5. The small spacers are not needed.

Q: What side does the diff screw face in the transmission?
A: I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
Here are manuals from the last few models from AE for reference:


B4.2:


B5:


B5M 3-gear:


B5M 4-gear:


B6D 3-gear:


Q: What does running the shocks on the B6 in front of the rear tower do?
A: The shocks on the front of the arm lets the car change direction faster for very high grip conditions.

Q: What shock eyelets do I use on which arm hole?
A:



Q: What Kashima shock bodies do I need for the B6/B6D?
A: For the front, you will need #ASC91576 12x23mm Buggy V2 Front Shock Body
For the rear, you will need #ASC91577 12x27.5mm Truck V2 Front Shock Body
For the rear, you can also buy #91666 B6 Rear Shock Tower (Long)
and #ASC91578 Buggy V2 Rear Shock Body

Q: Why was there such a short turnaround between the 5 and 6 series? The b4 lasted 10 years!
A: Racing has changed dramatically over the last three to four years. Tracks and traction are changing. The need for a new car was necessary to adapt to all the new changes. You can still run the 5 series competitively. Your car didn't just get obsolete overnight. If you think about it, the B4 to B4.1 and then B4.2 progression were responses to tracks changing in traction and configurations. AE was just able to adapt the same platform.

There is a high probability that we may see a more frequent life cycle time for vehicles.

Q: Do I need to lube the gears in the transmission?
A: This is a strictly personal preference, but a little grease doesn't hurt anything. We are talking about a small dab of grease, in one spot, on each gear. What kind of grease you ask? Black or clear AE grease work, shock oil works; just about anything that will provide a little lubrication.

Q: What gearing do I start with?
A: This question is very track dependent, but for Stock, start off with a 66, 69 or 72 spur and 28-34 pinion. For Mod, follow the chart in the manual to start. Always gear for temperature, and check after every practice run to ensure you are not building up too much heat.



Q: My turnbuckles are stiff/pop off when I try to adjust them, how do I fix them?
A: Make sure you have greased the threads with either black grease or chapstick. You may want to use a drill to "work" each turnbuckle into the cups. To do this, chuck the turnbuckle into your drill, and drill slowly into and out of the ball end. This will cut and work the threads into the ballcups making it easier to make adjustments. There is a ball cup tool on Shapeways that you can use to hold the ball end, which will make this process much easier to do.

Q: What hop-ups should I get for my new kit?
A: Here are common hopups:

Q: What type of Diff Balls and Thrust balls should I use?
A: General consensus on this forum is that Carbide diff balls and Ceramic thrust balls make the best diff. I have used ceramic diff balls before, but it does require a tighter setting. I would suggest using the carbide/ceramic combo mentioned above, but make sure you follow a break-in procedure as outlined in the above links further up in this post.

Q: What's the difference between a 3 and 4 gear transmission?
A: See this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
It changes the direction the motor rotates/torques against the chassis. In a RM car, you want the motor's rotation direction to put pressure on the front tires, so the dang thing can turn, because there is so much weight out back. It gives the car a balanced feeling. RM car's accomplish this with a 3 gear trans.

In a MM car, because all of the weight of the car is inside the rear axle, the balance sits the other way. On-throttle, they CAN lack REAR bite, instead of front bite. So you run a 4gear trans, so that the rotation of the motor torques the chassis to put pressure on the rear tires instead. If you run a 3 gear trans in a MM car, you have the potential to really limit weight shift to the rear of the car.

This is stuff I learned 20 years ago, and still have modern day experience with when I was running the DEX and Cougar (which only had 4gear option). It's published info you can go look-up yourself. As a matter of fact, Durango has a GREAT little graphical diagram that teaches the whole thing.

I will venture to say that MOST tracks, the 4gear will be better. On SOME tracks that have high enough traction... the 3 gear will be better. Either way, releasing the truck stock with a 3 gear would be a mistake, as it certainly won't be the way to go for most tracks. So in conclusion, it is my opinion that it will be a tuning option for those that want the most amount of on-throttle steering as possible, which will usually only be tracks with the highest levels of traction.
Also see this, from Kurt Wenger, former AE designer and Schelle Racing owner:
Quote:
Kurt Wenger A quick lesson on 3-gear...here we go. I personally believe the difference in drag is nothing compared to the difference in car handling. 3-gear won't give you the feeling of more power.

There are 2 things the gearbox (and thus the motor orientation) change on the handling:

1) torque effect: When you hit the gas, with a 4-gear, the motor pitches the car to the rear, adding grip on power. The 3-gear orientation pitches the car towards the front, resisting weight transfer. The opposite is true on decelleration/brakes. 3-gear makes the motor forces resist the natural direction of weight transfer

2) gyro effect: When you turn, the 4-gear orientation makes the motor add to the lean of the car, while the 3-gear orientation resists lean.

Thus, when you drive the 3-gear, the car feels less reactive/more mellow, with less on-power traction. This is generally good for extremely high grip tracks, or drivers that want the car to stay flat in the turns....3-gear generally stabilizes the car but you need to make a few changes to get enough rear grip. I wouldn't recommend it on a loose or low-grip track.
And then see these explanations, courtesy of Team Durango:



Quote:
The rotation of the motor is in the same direction as the rotation of the wheels. The torque of the motor is in opposition to the rotation of the motor and is Ďaimedí between the motor and the contact patch of the tyre. This causes the rear end to squat under acceleration aiding forward traction whilst keeping wheelies to minimum.


Quote:
The rotation of the motor is in the opposite direction to the rotation of the wheels. The torque of the motor is in opposition to the rotation of the motor and is Ďaimedí in front of the motor. This causes the rear end to squat very little under acceleration and provides very little mechanical grip unless there is already sufficient grip from the tyres. Thus forward traction is not as high as MM4.
How does this translate to the track? Note the rotation of the motor. This can affect the way the car jumps, in-air stability and acceleration. If you have the cash, give it a try!

Here's Frank Root's (TLR designer) take on 3 gear vs 4 gear: https://youtu.be/HkthhHMhebk?t=474

Ultimately, it comes down to personal preference, as *I* like the 4 gear (feels more natural to me) but a 3 gear can work for you, you really just have to try both out to see what works.


Q:
A:

Last edited by RCBuddha; 01-08-2017 at 06:44 PM.
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Old 04-29-2016, 06:19 AM   #5
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RCBuddha has shown in the past that he has the dedication and willingness to take on the task of keeping the thread properly updated and his help is extremely appreciated by the members here.

Please use this thread to discuss the most recent addition to the Team Associated family of vehicles.
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Old 04-29-2016, 06:19 AM   #6
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HOW TO/BUILD LINKS

Vehicle builds:

http://www.competitionx.com/rc-build...ing-and-servo/

http://www.rccaraction.com/blog/2016...ssociated-b6d/

Build tip #1 from Brent Theilke:
If you're not able to get full throw to the right, this ballstud may be too high. With all the different servos, servo horns and tolerance build-up, the articulation of the drag link may be the limiting factor.
The aluminum bellcrank calls for 2mm here, but I had to go to 0 in order to get full throw.



Build tip #2 from Nick Wautlet:
#‎wallietip‬: if using the FT aluminum steering rack, bellcranks and servo horn run the steel kit screws rather than the titanium ones. The aluminum parts minimize the flex in the steering which stresses these two screws and can cause them to shear.




Build tip #3 from Brent Thielke
With all the rear roll center adjustments available in the B6 platform it can be confusing communicating what each position means. For me, the easiest way to talk about them is as center, half and full.
So for this picture, my inserts are "half up and half in". I have the same position in the "C" arm mount, so my toe is still 3* with 1* anti-squat.




Build Tip #4 via Facebook
if you want to bolt a fan to the chassis try doing this:





Build Tip #5 from RC*Phreak

Regarding MIP Pucks and adding the correct shimming:

i got the shim situation with the pucks sorted out. you have to:

1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.

Build Tip #6 from Brent Thielke

I keep tweaking/bending my rear wing mounts, is there a fix? Yes, do not over-tighten the screws that hold the wing down, screw them down till their snug and maybe back off 1/2 turn or so.

Last edited by RCBuddha; 10-04-2016 at 04:27 PM.
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Old 04-29-2016, 06:19 AM   #7
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Nice Buddha. Going to be a great thread. Let the discussion begin while we wait for June. Today happens to be my birthday. Awesome.
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Old 04-29-2016, 06:22 AM   #8
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Looking forward to picking up the standard B6...
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Old 04-29-2016, 06:23 AM   #9
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http://liverc.com/news/new_products/...6_and_RC10B6D/

Some info on live RC...

So far I don't see much reason for upgrading if youre a dirt guy. I could be wrong though.
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Old 04-29-2016, 06:31 AM   #10
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New chassis and more bling along with carbon fiber shock mounts, no more front inserts. Don't know weight o car yet as built but I think it has enough changes for me. I think I'm buying three cars, B6D, B6C and one more to play with and have a B6H. H is for hybrid.
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Old 04-29-2016, 06:38 AM   #11
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Looking good. I'm excited to see a new kit but not at the same time since I only recently got the b5m. Looks like I'll have a project to work on soon!
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Old 04-29-2016, 06:39 AM   #12
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I plan to pick up a B6 for our high grip track.
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Old 04-29-2016, 06:44 AM   #13
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Essentially you could have the B6D then swap out front tower and arms and rear transmission and you should have the B6.
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Old 04-29-2016, 06:45 AM   #14
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I might get one. I still prefer the AE buggies and Losi Trucks.
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Old 04-29-2016, 06:46 AM   #15
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AE Team over at EOS, doing work. Roll out the new car, same day at EOS, should have some good shots this weekend.

http://eos.redrc.net
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