649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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01-28-2017, 01:32 PM
#5446
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (19)
Weasely, are you using the short stack reedy 17.5 (#269) or the regular 17.5 (#254)? If you're using the short stacks version, swap the rotor for the 12.5 rotor #273. Since technically the short stack version is for pan car so they put the rpm rotor in it. Try that and 40-45 degrees of timing and about 69-29/30 to start.
01-28-2017, 01:49 PM
#5447
Tech Apprentice
Dumb question. Does the Speed Secrets cut diff gear require shims?
01-28-2017, 03:07 PM
#5449
Tech Apprentice
Thanks.
01-28-2017, 06:51 PM
#5450
I figured I'd just give my 2 cents on my Reedy motor. I have the M3 17.5 1s with the 272 rotor and I run a 69 spur with 28 or 29. I get great pull down the straights and out of the corners. The 1s is meant to run a higher rpm than the normal 17.5. I don't set the timing by degs, I use the amps and sound of the rpm range. My current track has about 150ft straight and doubles just around corners. Once you find what the motor likes, it's badass.
01-28-2017, 09:47 PM
#5451
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
This is interesting!
I'd like to add my own observations; I'm still getting my head around motors and gearing voodoo for 17.5, so sorry for being long winded.
I have struggled to get the kind of performance out of a reedy 17.5 that other people seem to suggest they are capable of.
(I also run at NorCal, having been to only one practice session on the new track and that double is a buggy-buster!)
I'd like to add my own observations; I'm still getting my head around motors and gearing voodoo for 17.5, so sorry for being long winded.
I have struggled to get the kind of performance out of a reedy 17.5 that other people seem to suggest they are capable of.
(I also run at NorCal, having been to only one practice session on the new track and that double is a buggy-buster!)
Most people there are not running a slipper in 17.5, or totally lock out the slipper. Also, I always run a fan on the B6 - you are probably under weight anyways so why not have a $15 fan to protect your motor?
01-29-2017, 12:28 AM
#5452
Removing waterfall
Using the schelle or exotek battery strap WITH turnbuckle and removing the waterfall: does this significantly increase the chance of chassis tweak? I know running no waterfall can, but didn't know if the turnbuckle mitigates the risk.? Thx
01-29-2017, 07:57 AM
#5454
I just started running the Reedy 17.5 SS with the 273 rotor as well. I did not try the stock rotor, as Nick Waulnet from Associated suggested that I run it with the 273 rotor. I was very happy with the results yesterday. I plan ono putting one in my SC5M as well.
01-29-2017, 12:23 PM
#5455
Tech Addict
iTrader: (15)
dont think that waterfall brace does anything at all.... not sure how a bend like that can provide any bracing behavior at all.
Also, does anyone know when we can expect aluminum rear hubs incorporating the use of 67mm dog bones? i am very interested in trying this out.
Also, does anyone know when we can expect aluminum rear hubs incorporating the use of 67mm dog bones? i am very interested in trying this out.
Last edited by radioctrlhead; 01-29-2017 at 01:18 PM.
01-29-2017, 01:44 PM
#5458
Tech Initiate
Any of you guys have a problem with the servo horn hitting the bottom side of the top plate? I ended up shaving the bottom of the top plate a bit to making it work. It's worth noting that I'm not using the stock plastic servo....but I've tried two different 25 tooth servo horns....a Losi and an associated and both times I've had to put the shaved top plate back on (I have two....one shaved and one untouched).
01-29-2017, 02:17 PM
#5459
Any of you guys have a problem with the servo horn hitting the bottom side of the top plate? I ended up shaving the bottom of the top plate a bit to making it work. It's worth noting that I'm not using the stock plastic servo....but I've tried two different 25 tooth servo horns....a Losi and an associated and both times I've had to put the shaved top plate back on (I have two....one shaved and one untouched).
01-29-2017, 04:19 PM
#5460
Weasely, are you using the short stack reedy 17.5 (#269) or the regular 17.5 (#254)? If you're using the short stacks version, swap the rotor for the 12.5 rotor #273. Since technically the short stack version is for pan car so they put the rpm rotor in it. Try that and 40-45 degrees of timing and about 69-29/30 to start.
I need to give it another chance with more timing now that I have a fan mounted, but I'm doubtful it'll do what I hope it will.