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Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Originally Posted by kdub
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 01-02-2017, 12:10 AM
  #5071  
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Originally Posted by RAP66
Finally finished... for the most part caught up on this thread. I have a B6... What the consensus on the rear shocks?? stock position or flipped to the rear of the shock tower?

-Rich
high grip , smooth track...front. Bumpy and inconsistent traction....rear.
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Old 01-02-2017, 06:00 AM
  #5072  
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Originally Posted by 1/4milecrazy
Okay, so you have me convinced to try it. I am gonna try it with the MIP axles as I do have pucks in the car now.

Only problem is I can not find the BMI spacers. Ive googled everything I could to try to find them and have no idea what they look like or what they do even. Their website is terrible, the online store does not work and their facebook page doesnt seem like its been used in years. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Yes, I know. My website has not been used in a long time. I used to make pan cars and stopped doing them 5 years ago. I check the Facebook page but have not been on this weekend due to a busy New Years weekend. I will be back in the office tomorrow so best bet is to shoot me an email and I will get you what you need. My email is [email protected]. Just give me until the morning to send you all of the info. We are off today.
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Old 01-02-2017, 08:48 AM
  #5073  
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Will these bmi inserts fit the new schelle b6 hubs?
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Old 01-02-2017, 09:07 AM
  #5074  
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Are the BMI inserts used in the aluminum hubs?
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Old 01-02-2017, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by rpc07
Will these bmi inserts fit the new schelle b6 hubs?
Originally Posted by Sean B.
Are the BMI inserts used in the aluminum hubs?
Yes, they will only work with the aluminum hubs. Either the AE or the Schelle.
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Old 01-02-2017, 09:12 AM
  #5076  
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Originally Posted by Phillip F
high grip , smooth track...front. Bumpy and inconsistent traction....rear.
Or front position with the longer 31mm B5M Kashima shocks.
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Old 01-02-2017, 09:14 AM
  #5077  
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
Yes, they will only work with the aluminum hubs. Either the AE or the Schelle.
AE aluminum hubs or shelle only?
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Old 01-02-2017, 09:15 AM
  #5078  
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Originally Posted by brian mills
AE aluminum hubs or shelle only?
Either....
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Old 01-02-2017, 09:16 AM
  #5079  
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Sorry I just now read your entire post..
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Old 01-02-2017, 09:56 AM
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How loose should the front and rear arms be ? My front arms will drop all by themselves when I pick them up, the rear ones will not (brand new, only half way thru the build)
I know When i built my Tekno vehicles it stated in the manual to ream the arms, the associated manual does not
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Old 01-02-2017, 10:22 AM
  #5081  
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Originally Posted by protc3
Yes, I know. My website has not been used in a long time. I used to make pan cars and stopped doing them 5 years ago. I check the Facebook page but have not been on this weekend due to a busy New Years weekend. I will be back in the office tomorrow so best bet is to shoot me an email and I will get you what you need. My email is [email protected]. Just give me until the morning to send you all of the info. We are off today.
Awesome, thanks for the reply. I have noticed that there are two facebook pages, the one that your website links to seems like an older one that is no longer used, but a search for BMI racing leads to a more current one.

I will be in touch. Now realizing that it only works with the Aluminum hubs has me second guessing because I dont have them. I have a pair on my SC5M but not sure I want to run them on my 17.5 car. I guess it cant hurt to try them.
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Old 01-02-2017, 10:24 AM
  #5082  
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
They have bones for the losi's but it doesn't state their length.
MIP 16131 are the aluminum axles you want if you are running pucks or rollers with the BMI offset inserts. They are on my cars right now. You also eliminate the spacers on the axle with these bones.
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Old 01-02-2017, 10:33 AM
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The new exotek titanium losi axles work as well.
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Old 01-02-2017, 12:59 PM
  #5084  
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Originally Posted by 1/4milecrazy
Awesome, thanks for the reply. I have noticed that there are two facebook pages, the one that your website links to seems like an older one that is no longer used, but a search for BMI racing leads to a more current one.

I will be in touch. Now realizing that it only works with the Aluminum hubs has me second guessing because I dont have them. I have a pair on my SC5M but not sure I want to run them on my 17.5 car. I guess it cant hurt to try them.
https://m.facebook.com/bmi.racing.5?...urce=typeahead

This is my page on Facebook. You can also look me up by name which is Jason Breiner. I try to do updates of products on both pages
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Old 01-02-2017, 01:25 PM
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Newbie question:

I am building a set of 31mm shocks and followed instructions per manual (middle of page 15 steps 1-10) and I am getting a stroke length measuring 18.5mm. What am I doing wrong? Thanks in advance!
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