649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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12-05-2016, 03:13 PM
#4638
I'm going to try a set of hard arms.
I know of the positives harder parts, BUT do they break much more easily that stock arms?
I know of the positives harder parts, BUT do they break much more easily that stock arms?
12-05-2016, 03:23 PM
#4640
12-05-2016, 03:29 PM
#4641
took a closer look at my vrp stuff, looks like I am missing some parts from the CNC battery brace.
Came with the following:
- battery brace assembly
- turnbuckle
- turnbuckle ends with 1 "ball" insert on 1 end, none on the other
- 1 nut
Is it supposed to come with any screws, another ball insert that goes into the turnbuckle end, etc? If so, what are the sizes so I can get it together with what I have here?
Got a message and they sending out the missing parts. nice customer service. I have to say for being aluminum in comparison to the graphite, at least for towers, these feel pretty light.
Came with the following:
- battery brace assembly
- turnbuckle
- turnbuckle ends with 1 "ball" insert on 1 end, none on the other
- 1 nut
Is it supposed to come with any screws, another ball insert that goes into the turnbuckle end, etc? If so, what are the sizes so I can get it together with what I have here?
Got a message and they sending out the missing parts. nice customer service. I have to say for being aluminum in comparison to the graphite, at least for towers, these feel pretty light.
Last edited by Cain; 12-05-2016 at 07:19 PM.
12-05-2016, 03:40 PM
#4642
Tech Rookie
Turnbuckles keep loosening
My toe-in turnbuckles on the front keep getting out of alignment within a lap or two. Usually it's just one side at a time that goes. Also, it's both sides that do it. It's not just a little bit either, it's something you can see from a distance. I thought about switching to the B5 ball cups and studs, but I'd like to not spend the money if I can avoid it. Anyone else experience this? For info purposes I run on indoor turf and am running the stock set up.
12-05-2016, 06:59 PM
#4643
Tech Regular
12-05-2016, 07:03 PM
#4644
Just curious if anybody has run this on the black CRC carpet yet ? Looking for a rough setup and wondering what tires you were using.
12-05-2016, 07:23 PM
#4645
My toe-in turnbuckles on the front keep getting out of alignment within a lap or two. Usually it's just one side at a time that goes. Also, it's both sides that do it. It's not just a little bit either, it's something you can see from a distance. I thought about switching to the B5 ball cups and studs, but I'd like to not spend the money if I can avoid it. Anyone else experience this? For info purposes I run on indoor turf and am running the stock set up.
12-05-2016, 07:46 PM
#4646
Tech Apprentice
12-05-2016, 07:52 PM
#4647
Tech Apprentice
12-05-2016, 08:51 PM
#4649
Tech Initiate
Ok have had the b6 since first release and am totally loving it. But now I want more so looking to upgrade my motor. Going to put it to a vote here on the forum. Suurspeed or Fantom 17.5 with all the bells and whisltes on both which one should I get? Track is high bite carpet std to small size.
12-05-2016, 10:56 PM
#4650
Ok have had the b6 since first release and am totally loving it. But now I want more so looking to upgrade my motor. Going to put it to a vote here on the forum. Suurspeed or Fantom 17.5 with all the bells and whisltes on both which one should I get? Track is high bite carpet std to small size.
