649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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09-27-2016, 03:02 PM
#3451
Shorty only with laydown tranny even with the waterfall removed. No room for a square pack.
09-27-2016, 03:49 PM
#3452
Can you buy the long rear shocks with all the pieces or do you just buy the longer rear shock bodies and pick up all the pieces seperate?
Thanks
Thanks
09-28-2016, 05:50 AM
#3455
Tech Adept
Morris
We run carpet at my club in UK; I run 7.5 mod in a B6. Big track, 30x18 metres; check www.Facebook.com/1066racing for an idea of track size
I'd get the rear alloy hanger to adjust anti squat/track/toe more, and probably the brass front bulkhead for a little more weight at the front.
I've just bought the chassis weights (steel) to try but the car was good without.
We run carpet at my club in UK; I run 7.5 mod in a B6. Big track, 30x18 metres; check www.Facebook.com/1066racing for an idea of track size
I'd get the rear alloy hanger to adjust anti squat/track/toe more, and probably the brass front bulkhead for a little more weight at the front.
I've just bought the chassis weights (steel) to try but the car was good without.
Last edited by andrewcoley; 09-28-2016 at 06:07 AM.
09-28-2016, 06:06 AM
#3456
Tech Adept
For all you Carpet/Turf guys...new tyre from Schumacher, half way between minispike (astroturf) and minipin (carpet) and designed with a lower profile carcass for less grip/traction roll, spikes in-between sizes for more life.
Mini Dart! Silver for wet astro, yellow for dry astro/carpet, blue for long life.
Looks good I think; will be getting some to test on our EOS carpet soon.
http://www.racing-cars.com/scp/news/...partno=news780
Mini Dart! Silver for wet astro, yellow for dry astro/carpet, blue for long life.
Looks good I think; will be getting some to test on our EOS carpet soon.
http://www.racing-cars.com/scp/news/...partno=news780
09-28-2016, 08:37 AM
#3458
Tech Regular
I have one set of tires for this car glued to DE Racing dirt oval wheels for a B5m and they bolted right up to the B6D.
The tires I chose was proline electrons because that's the hot tire at the place ill be using the car at.
Also if your building this car pay attention to your shocks I built them wrong and had to redo all 4 shocks. Much better now.
The tires I chose was proline electrons because that's the hot tire at the place ill be using the car at.
Also if your building this car pay attention to your shocks I built them wrong and had to redo all 4 shocks. Much better now.
09-28-2016, 08:53 AM
#3459
Tech Regular
If anyone cares, I just got the official response from Team Associated:
"The B6 and B6d uses the shorty pack as the primary. If you want to use either Saddle or Square packs, then you will need to remove/not use the battery strap #91731 and keep the batteries in by using a good brand of 2-side tape. Like 3M!"
"The B6 and B6d uses the shorty pack as the primary. If you want to use either Saddle or Square packs, then you will need to remove/not use the battery strap #91731 and keep the batteries in by using a good brand of 2-side tape. Like 3M!"
A properly geared 17.5 should use around 1500 MAH in a race and a 10.5 should use around 2000 MAH in a 2wd. I run a 4600 shorty in my wheeler with a 10.5 and I can still get 10+ min in practice. It weighs over 200 grams more than the 2wd and has the drag of a front diff.
09-28-2016, 09:35 AM
#3460
Tech Regular
I bought the B6D thinking if I bought it 6 months later they'll release the T6.
Its that or the SC6.
Its that or the SC6.
09-28-2016, 10:24 AM
#3461
09-28-2016, 10:30 AM
#3462
Tech Regular
The Kyosho one yes. They may call it the SC10X or something.
09-28-2016, 10:32 AM
#3463
Yeah, something. These number naming conventions were bound to cause this type of problem sooner or later.
09-28-2016, 11:30 AM
#3464
09-28-2016, 02:16 PM
#3465
Shock towers breaking: to reiterate, near razor sharp edges cut carpet, dig into dirt and clay and will snap when your buggy comes to a dead stop. I have a horizontal crack in my tower from just such a crash.
Solution: Mildly take down the sharp edges with emery cloth, cover with a Lexan shock tower cover or shock tower protectors, use wide washers and/or countersunk washers for strain relief on the shock mounting hole. You can seal with CA if you like, but not needed once the edges are smooth.
Solution: Mildly take down the sharp edges with emery cloth, cover with a Lexan shock tower cover or shock tower protectors, use wide washers and/or countersunk washers for strain relief on the shock mounting hole. You can seal with CA if you like, but not needed once the edges are smooth.