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Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Originally Posted by kdub
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 09-08-2016, 08:10 PM
  #3121  
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It will change the rear roll center. If you raise hub from 2 to 3 it will raise your rc
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Old 09-08-2016, 10:01 PM
  #3122  
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Originally Posted by scr8pn4205
On rear hubs if you only change the hub inserts and no camber link or shock length from+3 to +2 what does this change? Is it adding more roll to rear?
In my opinion, this is AE's solution to having correct dogbone plunge based on what ride height you are using. TLR has adjustable height transmissions (dirt vs. regular laydown) based on what ride height you want to run your buggy at.

You can't adjust the transmission height (relative to the chassis) in the B6, but you can adjust the hub mounting position to allow you to adjust/correct dogbone plunge based on your ride height/chassis position.

Lower ride heights will tend to flatten dogbone plunge if you're not correcting it some other way.
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Old 09-08-2016, 10:03 PM
  #3123  
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Anybody running b5 pucks with mip washer kit and have inner bearing go out after 5-6 packs?
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Old 09-09-2016, 04:03 AM
  #3124  
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Default Tire/rim question

I'm new to 1/10 off road but I just built my B6 and I bought the new Pro-Line Wedge 2 front tires and they seem too narrow for the rims.
Should I cut the inside bead off the rim to make it narrower or just stretch it to fit the rim?
Stretching them seems to make tire uneven across the top of it. Also I guess you don't use foam in these tires because they didn't come with any?
Thanks

Last edited by roysays; 09-09-2016 at 04:14 AM.
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Old 09-09-2016, 06:36 AM
  #3125  
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Originally Posted by roysays
I'm new to 1/10 off road but I just built my B6 and I bought the new Pro-Line Wedge 2 front tires and they seem too narrow for the rims.
Should I cut the inside bead off the rim to make it narrower or just stretch it to fit the rim?
Stretching them seems to make tire uneven across the top of it. Also I guess you don't use foam in these tires because they didn't come with any?
Thanks
Try these...or similar. You are looking for a "slim" front wheel.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/jconcep...o3376w/p467808

or

https://www.amainhobbies.com/schumac...hu4661/p453464
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Old 09-09-2016, 06:43 AM
  #3126  
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Originally Posted by roysays
I'm new to 1/10 off road but I just built my B6 and I bought the new Pro-Line Wedge 2 front tires and they seem too narrow for the rims.
Should I cut the inside bead off the rim to make it narrower or just stretch it to fit the rim?
Stretching them seems to make tire uneven across the top of it. Also I guess you don't use foam in these tires because they didn't come with any?
Thanks
No foam, narrow wheels.
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Old 09-09-2016, 07:35 AM
  #3127  
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Originally Posted by Cridd
Anybody running b5 pucks with mip washer kit and have inner bearing go out after 5-6 packs?
Which bearings? Inner Hub? Inside the gearbox?
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Old 09-09-2016, 07:49 AM
  #3128  
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Originally Posted by celt
OK thanks! So I guess PL doesn't make the thinner rims. I will probably just narrow out the rims I have for now and buy these next time
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Old 09-09-2016, 07:51 AM
  #3129  
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Originally Posted by celt
OK thanks! I guess PL doesn't make these narrower rims. I will probably just narrow these rims out this time and buy one of these narrower rims next time
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Old 09-09-2016, 07:52 AM
  #3130  
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Originally Posted by MX304
No foam, narrow wheels.
Thanks!
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Old 09-09-2016, 08:05 AM
  #3131  
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I have a freshly built B6D that I first ran for a few minutes on my street. The car seems good however when I peg the throttle the car acts as if the slipper is too loose. It travels along and eventually gets to full speed but it's not very snappy. I have my slipper tightened considerably. Also when I do the table top test the front of the car barely moves up. Does this mean my diff is way too loose?
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Old 09-09-2016, 08:48 AM
  #3132  
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Originally Posted by Orion_2kTC
I have a freshly built B6D that I first ran for a few minutes on my street. The car seems good however when I peg the throttle the car acts as if the slipper is too loose. It travels along and eventually gets to full speed but it's not very snappy. I have my slipper tightened considerably. Also when I do the table top test the front of the car barely moves up. Does this mean my diff is way too loose?
Most likely.
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Old 09-09-2016, 09:47 AM
  #3133  
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Originally Posted by Orion_2kTC
I have a freshly built B6D that I first ran for a few minutes on my street. The car seems good however when I peg the throttle the car acts as if the slipper is too loose. It travels along and eventually gets to full speed but it's not very snappy. I have my slipper tightened considerably. Also when I do the table top test the front of the car barely moves up. Does this mean my diff is way too loose?
You would most likely hear a loud barking noise from your diff if it was too loose and if not corrected the diff will be shot. Note: When the diff is freshly built it will loosed up most likely so check it periodically. I would guess your slipper may need a touch more tightening or perhaps your wheels are just spinning and not gripping. These cars were not made for asphalt as well so hard to say without watching it.
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Old 09-09-2016, 10:51 AM
  #3134  
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Originally Posted by Orion_2kTC
I have a freshly built B6D that I first ran for a few minutes on my street. The car seems good however when I peg the throttle the car acts as if the slipper is too loose. It travels along and eventually gets to full speed but it's not very snappy. I have my slipper tightened considerably. Also when I do the table top test the front of the car barely moves up. Does this mean my diff is way too loose?

Street prob has a ton of grip. Set everything for the surface (track) you will run at the most, imo.
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Old 09-09-2016, 06:36 PM
  #3135  
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About to be a fun weekend 😁
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