649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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08-16-2016, 07:40 PM
#2642
Great now i have to buy kashimas
08-16-2016, 11:48 PM
#2645
Tech Regular
08-17-2016, 06:06 AM
#2650
Postman brought my B6 to me yesterday. I started about 7pm and finished about 11pm.
Installed Bi Metal pucks on the gear diff and Exotek slipper eliminator right out of the box.
Couple things I noticed, I'll break em down into fitment and manual errors.
Fitment issues:
1) I studied and triple checked the orientation of the steering rack. I'm 95% sure I've got his right. Bag 1 Step 1 wants a 2mm spacer under the ballstud on the bell crank. I installed them and then ultimately removed them b/c I am not stoked with the amount of steering "throw" The ball stud/ball cup crashes into part 91667. If I compare the steering throw of my B5M FL to the B6 side by side, the B5M has got tons more. See the pic below. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, please advise.
2) Somebody else mentioned it here, but one of my turnbuckles isn't threaded correctly. It's on the LH threaded end, it looks threaded, but upon closer inspection, the threads have no pitch to them. They're sorta just ribs. No amount of turning (in either direction) will get the ball cup to screw on. I was fortunate to have a 48mm Factory Team Ti set in spare parts inventory for my B5M I "borrowed" to complete the build.
Manual errors:
Bag 5-8 step 1: shows no spacer under the ball stud. Yet in Bag 5-8 step 2 and step 3 one can clearly be seen in the rendering. There are also 2mm spacers included in these part bags. I installed them as shown in the Bag 5-8 step 2.
Bag 11-14 step 8: calls for 8 M3x10mm FHCS to mount the tranny and the chassis brace. The hardware kit includes 6 M3x10 FHCS for the tranny, and 2 M3x14 for the chassis brace (I think, they might have been M3-12s. At any rate, there were 2 that were definitely longer)
Any advice on the steering rack would be helpful. It looks like if you install the rack upside down vs what the manual wants it would buy me more clearance. I fear this however would have adverse affects on the steering geometry
edit "not enough posts to include a url to other site" so sorry no pic, which is kinda weak.
Installed Bi Metal pucks on the gear diff and Exotek slipper eliminator right out of the box.
Couple things I noticed, I'll break em down into fitment and manual errors.
Fitment issues:
1) I studied and triple checked the orientation of the steering rack. I'm 95% sure I've got his right. Bag 1 Step 1 wants a 2mm spacer under the ballstud on the bell crank. I installed them and then ultimately removed them b/c I am not stoked with the amount of steering "throw" The ball stud/ball cup crashes into part 91667. If I compare the steering throw of my B5M FL to the B6 side by side, the B5M has got tons more. See the pic below. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, please advise.
2) Somebody else mentioned it here, but one of my turnbuckles isn't threaded correctly. It's on the LH threaded end, it looks threaded, but upon closer inspection, the threads have no pitch to them. They're sorta just ribs. No amount of turning (in either direction) will get the ball cup to screw on. I was fortunate to have a 48mm Factory Team Ti set in spare parts inventory for my B5M I "borrowed" to complete the build.
Manual errors:
Bag 5-8 step 1: shows no spacer under the ball stud. Yet in Bag 5-8 step 2 and step 3 one can clearly be seen in the rendering. There are also 2mm spacers included in these part bags. I installed them as shown in the Bag 5-8 step 2.
Bag 11-14 step 8: calls for 8 M3x10mm FHCS to mount the tranny and the chassis brace. The hardware kit includes 6 M3x10 FHCS for the tranny, and 2 M3x14 for the chassis brace (I think, they might have been M3-12s. At any rate, there were 2 that were definitely longer)
Any advice on the steering rack would be helpful. It looks like if you install the rack upside down vs what the manual wants it would buy me more clearance. I fear this however would have adverse affects on the steering geometry
edit "not enough posts to include a url to other site" so sorry no pic, which is kinda weak.
08-17-2016, 06:15 AM
#2651
Fitment issues:
1) I studied and triple checked the orientation of the steering rack. I'm 95% sure I've got his right. Bag 1 Step 1 wants a 2mm spacer under the ballstud on the bell crank. I installed them and then ultimately removed them b/c I am not stoked with the amount of steering "throw" The ball stud/ball cup crashes into part 91667. If I compare the steering throw of my B5M FL to the B6 side by side, the B5M has got tons more. See the pic below. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, please advise.
1) I studied and triple checked the orientation of the steering rack. I'm 95% sure I've got his right. Bag 1 Step 1 wants a 2mm spacer under the ballstud on the bell crank. I installed them and then ultimately removed them b/c I am not stoked with the amount of steering "throw" The ball stud/ball cup crashes into part 91667. If I compare the steering throw of my B5M FL to the B6 side by side, the B5M has got tons more. See the pic below. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, please advise.
Last edited by Matt Trimmings; 08-17-2016 at 06:29 AM.
08-17-2016, 07:12 AM
#2653
08-17-2016, 08:26 AM
#2655
I love the kashimas.
I know more than one person who doesn't like them
I also like the gold shafts over the chrome.
I know more than one person who doesn't like them
I also like the gold shafts over the chrome.