649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
|
08-11-2016, 01:36 PM
#2491
08-11-2016, 01:46 PM
#2492
I ordered my steel plates from Tower this morning and this afternoon they are gone already.
08-11-2016, 01:53 PM
#2493
08-11-2016, 04:05 PM
#2496
What so much better about them?
I like the 2.2 AE wheels as I like the actual dish (concave) in the wheel face to the outside and the wheels look better longer. I have not had major issues with them.
08-11-2016, 06:58 PM
#2499
08-11-2016, 07:18 PM
#2500
Trying to get my b6d order together. Is the stock steering rack pretty jenky, necessitating the aluminum one or is it fairly decent? Seems like its unanimously replaced on most cars I see.
08-11-2016, 07:25 PM
#2501
It's DEFINITELY needed on this car, in my opinion. ESPECIALLY on high bite.
08-11-2016, 07:40 PM
#2502
Can i ask what it helps? Im really trying to avoid unnecessary hop ups this time around. Also trying to keep the weight bias from getting any farther forward than it is now.Seems the aluminum would be quite a bit heavier but i honestly have no idea.
08-11-2016, 07:48 PM
#2503
Heard at nationals they are removing the waterfall and running the battery further back towards the motor. Anyone tried this?
08-11-2016, 07:50 PM
#2504
