649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
|
08-02-2016, 11:28 AM
#2236
Whether you obtain the correct steering throw electronically or mechanically, it makes very little difference. I agree with Wildcat.
08-02-2016, 11:56 AM
#2237
Tech Rookie
Thanks again!
08-02-2016, 12:48 PM
#2238
Thanks very much. As I've returned to RC after a 20 year absence, I have found that nothing is the same and every mm counts! I was just worried that maybe the lengthening of the steering link may have some unknown adverse affect. I STILL haven't been able to get the B6D on the track yet... Hoping for Saturday!
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
08-02-2016, 12:53 PM
#2239
Tech Rookie
08-02-2016, 01:11 PM
#2241
Every new car from any manufacturer has parts supply issues at first. 95%+ of the B6 / B6D parts were available prior to release and most of these are still available today. Some issues always happen but I don't see this as a 'fail' on AE's part. Did you backorder them or did you expect to just order them up on day 1?
08-02-2016, 01:27 PM
#2243
Tech Regular
I ordered my chassis weights on eBay just a few hours ago. No fail for me. I had a heads up, but still. Parts are out there.
08-02-2016, 02:24 PM
#2244
Lmao at the VRP plates. Good luck mounting your electronics to that milled surface.
08-02-2016, 02:37 PM
#2246
08-02-2016, 02:44 PM
#2247
You are incorrect. Look at the surface a bit closer and run your finger over it. It is indeed a milled surface. Ours is butter smooth compared to the stock chassis surface. Also, ours is machines in the usa, unlike the chassis. Look at the pic I have attached.
08-02-2016, 02:48 PM
#2248
So you're telling me this is a flatter surface:
Than this:
I'll have whatever you're having. It's some strong stuff.
Than this:
I'll have whatever you're having. It's some strong stuff.
08-02-2016, 02:51 PM
#2249
08-02-2016, 02:58 PM
#2250