649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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07-19-2016, 10:20 AM
#1726
07-19-2016, 10:58 AM
#1729
Tech Addict
In my eyes there is no comparison. I can't think of one thing the b5m did better than the b6, seriously.
The b5r? Not even close. I've raced on some of the lowest grip dirt there is. Rear motor is a thing of the past. If you're not going faster with a mid car in those conditions you're not tuning correctly.
The thing that surprised me most is how good the b6 is right out of the box!
The b5r? Not even close. I've raced on some of the lowest grip dirt there is. Rear motor is a thing of the past. If you're not going faster with a mid car in those conditions you're not tuning correctly.
The thing that surprised me most is how good the b6 is right out of the box!
Nevertheless, I will start my B6D build in Friday morning, will set it up with Brass C, 15g under the batterie, shocks front/rear: 1.6/35/green and 1.6/30/green, 3,5 toe in at rear.
Hopefully that wil do (for the B5m it really does
)
07-19-2016, 11:06 AM
#1730
The questions is, does it anything worse than the B6D (especially on low bite clay/loose dirt).
Nevertheless, I will start my B6D build in Friday morning, will set it up with Brass C, 15g under the batterie, shocks front/rear: 1.6/35/green and 1.6/30/green, 3,5 toe in at rear.
Hopefully that wil do (for the B5m it really does)
Nevertheless, I will start my B6D build in Friday morning, will set it up with Brass C, 15g under the batterie, shocks front/rear: 1.6/35/green and 1.6/30/green, 3,5 toe in at rear.
Hopefully that wil do (for the B5m it really does
)Last edited by Speedychris22; 07-19-2016 at 12:56 PM.
07-19-2016, 12:26 PM
#1731
07-19-2016, 12:32 PM
#1732
07-19-2016, 12:36 PM
#1733
07-19-2016, 01:00 PM
#1735
The questions is, does it anything worse than the B6D (especially on low bite clay/loose dirt).
Nevertheless, I will start my B6D build in Friday morning, will set it up with Brass C, 15g under the batterie, shocks front/rear: 1.6/35/green and 1.6/30/green, 3,5 toe in at rear.
Hopefully that wil do (for the B5m it really does)
Nevertheless, I will start my B6D build in Friday morning, will set it up with Brass C, 15g under the batterie, shocks front/rear: 1.6/35/green and 1.6/30/green, 3,5 toe in at rear.
Hopefully that wil do (for the B5m it really does
)
07-19-2016, 01:17 PM
#1737
07-19-2016, 01:18 PM
#1738
I got some new outdrives today to go with my B6 and B6D cut gears.
You know, copying others...Oh wait, no one else in the country has B6/B6D cut gears...or these outdrives
You know, copying others...Oh wait, no one else in the country has B6/B6D cut gears...or these outdrives
07-19-2016, 01:19 PM
#1739
07-19-2016, 01:22 PM
#1740
You continue to use the word "developing." While I do recognize that you helped identify that you could cobble together pucks, the word "development" is typically reserved for those designing and producing something. Perhaps tuning is a better word moving forward?