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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Last edit by: RCBuddha
Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 07-13-2016, 08:06 PM   #1471
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Originally Posted by RCBuddha View Post
both charts are there. Anyone can edit the wiki's btw...
I must have been blind...or an ad was covering the shocks portion.
And I went back forever pages looking for that info
I'll shut up and go finish my build now.
Oh, I won't be editing the wiki- I'd hate to mess with the great work y'all have done
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Old 07-13-2016, 08:07 PM   #1472
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Originally Posted by Johnn27 View Post
I am curious are racers building the B6d stock out of the box first and running it that way or are racers going straight to the laydown trans, laydown trans and long shock tower in the rear , and where are they mounting the rear shocks.

I was thinking to go straight to the letdown trans , go long shock tower, and mount the shocks behind the rear arm to start? thoughts? comment? opinions?
I'm going to do the same with the brass c mount. We will see how it goes
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Old 07-13-2016, 09:28 PM   #1473
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Had the B6D out for the first time tonight great car. We have a medium grip track that sometimes can be on the higher medium grip. Thought I would try the laydown transmission first.
Don't know that I will ever use the stand up it drives so good. I got the AE titanium screw kit. I used them on my B5 really liked them. Not too happy with the B6 titanium screws. they seem too soft and a couple had the head strip really easy. I did pre thread the holes before using them and have good drivers.
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Old 07-13-2016, 09:52 PM   #1474
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What servo do you guys plan on using. I have a reedy 1508 to put in it but was thinking of the new low profile ones look nice.
Really like the Reedy Servos the LP is nice i have one in the new car.
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Old 07-13-2016, 10:03 PM   #1475
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Really like the Reedy Servos the LP is nice i have one in the new car.
What Reedy servo are you guys using?
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Old 07-14-2016, 03:38 AM   #1476
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What Reedy servo are you guys using?
I'm using the Reedy RT1408. I wanted a light LP servo up there so I can have margin to add weight where/when needed using the tuning weights.
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Old 07-14-2016, 04:03 AM   #1477
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I'm using the Reedy RT1408. I wanted a light LP servo up there so I can have margin to add weight where/when needed using the tuning weights.
I did as well. What a stellar servo. Really impressed with the Reedy product.
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Old 07-14-2016, 04:41 AM   #1478
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So drove the car for the first time last night, built the car box stock with the exceptions of the alum upgrades and brass c mount. The car is very easy to drive has great traction but for me it lacked a bit of steering. Didn't want to make any changes as I was still getting used to the car. Our track is a bumpy low traction track so was impressed how easy it was to drive. I also have 22 3.0 with same motor that I have been working on the setup for some time now. In the first round I ran the 3.0 finished with a 16 5.10 with fast lap 18.8 2nd round went out with the b6 and did a 16 5.10 with a 18.4. Made 1 mistake which cost me tq. Very happy so far just need to work on getting a bit of steering into the car. Just some input for any guys that are debating which car to get.
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Old 07-14-2016, 06:01 AM   #1479
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Stock B6D with 2.4" tires and full Lunsford Ti kit with Orion speedo, Orion 4500 mah... 1486 grams.
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Old 07-14-2016, 07:01 AM   #1480
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Stock B6D with 2.4" tires and full Lunsford Ti kit with Orion speedo, Orion 4500 mah... 1486 grams.
I got a slim pack I must be way under 1499
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Old 07-14-2016, 07:13 AM   #1481
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I'm at 1526 with Orion 10.1 8.5 motor, Futaba shorty servo 4500 lipo, brass c mount alum d mount, bulkhead, and steering, titanium screws
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Old 07-14-2016, 08:21 AM   #1482
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Anyone else think this plastic feels different? stiffer?
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Old 07-14-2016, 08:22 AM   #1483
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I got a slim pack I must be way under 1499
this car is lighter than a b5m or b5m lite out of the box.
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Old 07-14-2016, 08:26 AM   #1484
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The plastic feels good to me, feels like higher quality than the b5m was. Only done with like 8 bags though so far
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Old 07-14-2016, 09:20 AM   #1485
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The lower wing mount is cool, but can someone explain what the rear body mount is for?
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