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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 07-13-2016, 12:29 PM   #1441
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Also looks like I'm missing the 2 outer steering ball studs. Supposed to be 6mm but I have a couple of 10mm ball studs. I can make them work, just thinking maybe some one got in a hurry packing things up to get kits out the door.
Outer rears should be 10mm. They should be able to put a locknut on the back to secure it better.
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Old 07-13-2016, 12:44 PM   #1442
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I'm stuck at work till 5 and my b6 is on my front door at home!
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Old 07-13-2016, 01:00 PM   #1443
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Outer rears should be 10mm. They should be able to put a locknut on the back to secure it better.
I meant the front. Steering ball studs. Page 7 of the manual, goes on the steering block arm. I don't have the 6mm, but DO have 2 10mm left. I can make the 10 work, might just need to demel off any excess length if I get any interference.
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Old 07-13-2016, 01:07 PM   #1444
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Originally Posted by Finalist View Post
JC B5M Fin ti turnbuckles work very well. Zero stud/cup binding AND zero turnbuckle theeads showing.
Cant buy em in germany

Or is the J2225 the correct number? Would be cheaper to get the Lunsfords (not a set, I can buy the 48mm ones for 10 a pair)?
Anyone please?
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Old 07-13-2016, 01:07 PM   #1445
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Anyone please?
What? The correct JC part number is 2580.

http://www.jconcepts.net/shop/b6-b6d...turnbuckle-set
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Old 07-13-2016, 01:17 PM   #1446
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I went with the Lunsfords. The tuner kit has 4x46mm and 4x48mm $26
http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...egory_Code=NEW
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Old 07-13-2016, 01:36 PM   #1447
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I went with the Lunsfords. The tuner kit has 4x46mm and 4x48mm $26
http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...egory_Code=NEW
Sweet deal! Just ordered a set. thanks
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Old 07-13-2016, 02:10 PM   #1448
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I'm having trouble getting low enough ride hight in my b6d I put a laydown in it and I'm trying to get 21 mm ride hight and I can only get it down to about 22 at best with the rear shock collars all the way up on the shocks???
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Old 07-13-2016, 02:20 PM   #1449
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I'm having trouble getting low enough ride hight in my b6d I put a laydown in it and I'm trying to get 21 mm ride hight and I can only get it down to about 22 at best with the rear shock collars all the way up on the shocks???
what offset do you have in rear hubs.
if you have all the way to bottom, you are at the tallest setting
should be the 1/2 insert with tab up, this is the +1 setting

should be 5mm offset spring collar
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Old 07-13-2016, 02:32 PM   #1450
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what offset do you have in rear hubs.
if you have all the way to bottom, you are at the tallest setting
should be the 1/2 insert with tab up, this is the +1 setting

should be 5mm offset spring collar
i have everything built to box stock set up with 5mm spring cups
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Old 07-13-2016, 02:39 PM   #1451
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What? The correct JC part number is 2580.

http://www.jconcepts.net/shop/b6-b6d...turnbuckle-set
Can't be bought in Germany, i posted the B5s Set which should work fine...if I posted the right set of turnbuckles (these are the only ones i could buy here)
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Old 07-13-2016, 02:40 PM   #1452
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Originally Posted by steelers82 View Post
i have everything built to box stock set up with 5mm spring cups
Use Yatabe Arena springs, or try using the 0 offset cups. I ran 16mm with the Yatabe Springs no problem.
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Old 07-13-2016, 02:43 PM   #1453
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i have everything built to box stock set up with 5mm spring cups
Run the 0 offset spring cups. This will allow you to get to a lower ride height
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Old 07-13-2016, 03:15 PM   #1454
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Originally Posted by steelers82 View Post
I'm having trouble getting low enough ride hight in my b6d I put a laydown in it and I'm trying to get 21 mm ride hight and I can only get it down to about 22 at best with the rear shock collars all the way up on the shocks???
Try +1 on axle front and rear axle heights. Refer to Spencer's JC Spring nationals setup sheet. he ran 20.5mm rear and 21mm front with 5mm cup offset
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Old 07-13-2016, 03:28 PM   #1455
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69 View Post
Try +1 on axle front and rear axle heights. Refer to Spencer's JC Spring nationals setup sheet. he ran 20.5mm rear and 21mm front with 5mm cup offset
Yup, same here, i have no issues
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