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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 07-13-2016, 07:22 AM   #1426
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Thanks for that
I highly recommend Bubba. Very fast, communicates extrememly well, helpful and quality.
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Old 07-13-2016, 07:40 AM   #1427
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Bruce...The CVD length is fine, just move your rear ballstud to the center hole on the rear inner camber mount and you should be set.



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Have any of you heard of cvd length issues with the new kits? My cvd's are 96mm. When I set the rear camber links per the manual (27mm between the ball cups) the cvds just barely touch the out drives. Now, I haven't put it on the set up station and fine tuned anything, but I thought this was odd. Here's a couple pics of what I'm talking about. Any down travel at all would have the shafts popping out of the out drives.

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Old 07-13-2016, 07:43 AM   #1428
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So I can rip out my B5R's Ti Turnbuckles and fit them onto my B6D? Any issues and reasons why I shouldnt do that?
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Old 07-13-2016, 08:06 AM   #1429
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So I can rip out my B5R's Ti Turnbuckles and fit them onto my B6D? Any issues and reasons why I shouldnt do that?
the b5 turnbuckles are longer. if you try to run short links you may run into issues.
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Old 07-13-2016, 08:14 AM   #1430
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the b5 turnbuckles are longer. if you try to run short links you may run into issues.
So if I look at the Lunsford Punisher for the B5m they are listed with:

4x 41,2mm
2x 44,4mm

So they would be a little bit shorter for the B6 and even a big time shorter than the kit ones from the B5?
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Old 07-13-2016, 08:17 AM   #1431
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JC B5M Fin ti turnbuckles work very well. Zero stud/cup binding AND zero turnbuckle theeads showing.
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Old 07-13-2016, 08:22 AM   #1432
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JC B5M Fin ti turnbuckles work very well. Zero stud/cup binding AND zero turnbuckle theeads showing.
Cant buy em in germany

Or is the J2225 the correct number? Would be cheaper to get the Lunsfords (not a set, I can buy the 48mm ones for 10€ a pair)?

Last edited by man1ac; 07-13-2016 at 09:09 AM.
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Old 07-13-2016, 08:59 AM   #1433
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Originally Posted by BruceR. View Post
Have any of you heard of cvd length issues with the new kits? My cvd's are 96mm. When I set the rear camber links per the manual (27mm between the ball cups) the cvds just barely touch the out drives. Now, I haven't put it on the set up station and fine tuned anything, but I thought this was odd. Here's a couple pics of what I'm talking about. Any down travel at all would have the shafts popping out of the out drives.

Camber is drastically wrong.
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Old 07-13-2016, 09:06 AM   #1434
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceR. View Post
Have any of you heard of cvd length issues with the new kits? My cvd's are 96mm. When I set the rear camber links per the manual (27mm between the ball cups) the cvds just barely touch the out drives. Now, I haven't put it on the set up station and fine tuned anything, but I thought this was odd. Here's a couple pics of what I'm talking about. Any down travel at all would have the shafts popping out of the out drives.
Looks to be another glitch in the manual. The B6 kit states to install the ball stud into the outer hole like you have but also states that the width between ball cups as 27mm. If you look at that pic it shows the inner ball stud as the middle hole. Once you get everything together and properly set camber you will be fine. Im sure it looks like you have about 4 degrees positive camber right now. I never pay attention to the manual as far as turnbuckle length. It always gets adjusted after I have the car complete.
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Old 07-13-2016, 10:07 AM   #1435
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yes, this was pointed out. the online manual was fixed. it shows the middle hole
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Old 07-13-2016, 10:30 AM   #1436
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I look forward to the days of no manual in the box. Online only...
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Old 07-13-2016, 10:54 AM   #1437
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When installing the lay down in the B6D, should just stick to the manual for everything else? For example, you don't run the shocks on the inside or set the camber links longer like the B6 manual states for the B6? Correct?
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Old 07-13-2016, 10:54 AM   #1438
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
I look forward to the days of no manual in the box. Online only...
I don't... I prefer to have my manual at my desk when I'm building and no i'm not printing out an online one.
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Old 07-13-2016, 11:44 AM   #1439
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
Looks to be another glitch in the manual. The B6 kit states to install the ball stud into the outer hole like you have but also states that the width between ball cups as 27mm. If you look at that pic it shows the inner ball stud as the middle hole. Once you get everything together and properly set camber you will be fine. Im sure it looks like you have about 4 degrees positive camber right now. I never pay attention to the manual as far as turnbuckle length. It always gets adjusted after I have the car complete.
I moved the inner ball stud to the middle hole. Had to go back to the manual and look at a picture with a magnifying glass. So it seems better but probably still a bit of positive camber. Once I get the thing on the set up station I'll fine-tune.
Also looks like I'm missing the 2 outer steering ball studs. Supposed to be 6mm but I have a couple of 10mm ball studs. I can make them work, just thinking maybe some one got in a hurry packing things up to get kits out the door.
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Old 07-13-2016, 11:56 AM   #1440
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Originally Posted by TheKraken View Post
I don't... I prefer to have my manual at my desk when I'm building and no i'm not printing out an online one.
No need to print...
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