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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 07-07-2016, 05:17 PM   #1201
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No, make sure your LHS has them on order, drive there and buy it
I was just wondering if it was a case where they would be sold out again once everyone that had ordered one got theirs.....
My LHS is crappy so was hoping to order it from somewhere else
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Old 07-07-2016, 07:47 PM   #1202
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I wonder if Tower wants to save money on shipping these kits and use awful UPS Mail Innovations working with the USPS and delivering these nice and slow.


All my free shipping or 0.99 / 1.99 Parts Saver shipping is painful with these guys.


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Old 07-07-2016, 07:47 PM   #1203
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Default Get mine monday

My b6 arrives on monday at my local hobby shop, cannot wait
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Old 07-07-2016, 08:09 PM   #1204
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http://www.redrc.net/2016/07/jcocept...ck-o-ring-set/

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Old 07-07-2016, 08:12 PM   #1205
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I just got my b6d body painted and cut the back trim lines long. My question, are the longer lines or the shorter ones fit the b6d? Btw I haven't got my back ordered car but im working on other things that take time.
Thanks
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Old 07-07-2016, 08:25 PM   #1206
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Originally Posted by hunsaker204 View Post
I just got my b6d body painted and cut the back trim lines long. My question, are the longer lines or the shorter ones fit the b6d? Btw I haven't got my back ordered car but im working on other things that take time.
Thanks
The manuals have been on AE's site for a week now. They detail which cut lines for which car.
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Old 07-07-2016, 08:26 PM   #1207
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Thanks socket.
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Old 07-07-2016, 08:32 PM   #1208
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The manuals have been on AE's site for a week now. They detail which cut lines for which car.
The B6 manual is incorrect on the cut lines. On the diagram it lists Cut Line A as the solid line. It should be the long dash. Cut Line C should be the solid line.

I have found a few other mistakes and haven't even built the kit yet. Just been looking through it.
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Old 07-07-2016, 09:03 PM   #1209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Gierse View Post
The B6 manual is incorrect on the cut lines. On the diagram it lists Cut Line A as the solid line. It should be the long dash. Cut Line C should be the solid line.

I have found a few other mistakes and haven't even built the kit yet. Just been looking through it.
I looked at the b6 and the b6d manuals last week but wasn't sure. Thanks Cris for the information.
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Old 07-07-2016, 10:58 PM   #1210
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Would the longer b5m shocks be better on an outdoor loose bumpy track?
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Old 07-08-2016, 01:46 AM   #1211
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I picked up the asc91688 B6 Aluminum Arm Mount, D; do i need to get asc92014 too for the inserts? the kit manual references the latter part number, but uses plastic d mounts.
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Old 07-08-2016, 03:26 AM   #1212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shdwboxn View Post
I picked up the asc91688 B6 Aluminum Arm Mount, D; do i need to get asc92014 too for the inserts? the kit manual references the latter part number, but uses plastic d mounts.
I noticed that page 27 of the B6D manual lists QTY 4ea of the inserts. This should provide enough to use the FT D mounts without needing to buy extra inserts.
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Old 07-08-2016, 04:34 AM   #1213
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Default Longer rear shocks

Quote:
Originally Posted by snaketaco View Post
Would the longer b5m shocks be better on an outdoor loose bumpy track?
I think it would be better on a bumpier outdoor track because you will have more shock travel ??? Just a thought ....
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Old 07-08-2016, 04:58 AM   #1214
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I think it would be better on a bumpier outdoor track because you will have more shock travel ??? Just a thought ....
It'll matter just how rough it is, and how large the jumps are.
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Old 07-08-2016, 05:01 AM   #1215
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BTW, the B6 is in stock at Tower.
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