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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Last edit by: RCBuddha
Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 04-29-2016, 06:23 PM   #106
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
While the front carriers/spindles should bolt up to the b5m the geometry is most likely not the same as it is designed to work with the new steering rack...rear hubs should be good to go.
Thanks! I'll just mod the B5 spindles like they did on the world's car and swap rear hubs then.
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Old 04-29-2016, 06:28 PM   #107
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Default spencer rivkin's B6 @ EOS

http://eos.redrc.net/2016/04/chassis...pencer-rivkin/

looks like he has an alloy steering kit in there already

and also a brass pivot on the front end

Last edited by glenng; 04-29-2016 at 06:30 PM. Reason: .
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Old 04-29-2016, 06:41 PM   #108
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Thank you for the condescending reply. I'll be sure to know everything about the hobby before I ask another question.

And they both are supposed to be for clay, so that was my next question, which one.
Sorry I didnt mean to sound condecending. I just assumed if you were familiar with what a laydown tranny is then you must have known its intended usage.

Anyway to answer your question, I wouldn't get the B6 unless you were exclusively running on astro or carpet. So get the B6D.
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Old 04-29-2016, 06:44 PM   #109
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Default June 17

So, I figure July 1st at best. Prudent to wait and stick with what I've got until end of July August when setups are out to consider switching.
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Amain has a date of June 17
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Old 04-29-2016, 06:53 PM   #110
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So, I figure July 1st at best. Prudent to wait and stick with what I've got until end of July August when setups are out to consider switching.
I don't think setups will be radically different. Start with your setup and adjust accordingly. Finding your own setups is half the fun
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Old 04-29-2016, 07:12 PM   #111
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Pre ordered the B6D. Looks like the geometry stays very close to the B5m so I doubt it handles much differently or will be markably faster. Looks like a good well refined buggy. Hopefully the kit comes with ti-nitrade shock shafts and ti turnbuckles like the marketing pics. Also like that it comes with more Aluminum and good bearings. Justifies the extra $30.

AE managed to address some of the weak points of the b5 i.e. the front spindle inserts. Im going to get the parts to run the laydown tranny just to see how it works on dirt. I race on medium grip indoor so it may not work but I like tinkering.
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Old 04-29-2016, 07:20 PM   #112
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Started updating the first page, breaking up some of the categories to make it easier to find things and easier for me to edit later.

BTW, here's the first B6 hopup:

For those who like to build shelf queens
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Old 04-29-2016, 07:24 PM   #113
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Started updating the first page, breaking up some of the categories to make it easier to find things and easier for me to edit later.

BTW, here's the first B6 hopup:

For those who like to build shelf queens



For the Xray crowd.
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Old 04-29-2016, 07:29 PM   #114
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Wow. Awesome job so far RCBuddha.
Thanks...
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Old 04-29-2016, 07:44 PM   #115
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Originally Posted by mgers75 View Post
Pre ordered the B6D. Looks like the geometry stays very close to the B5m so I doubt it handles much differently or will be markably faster. Looks like a good well refined buggy. Hopefully the kit comes with ti-nitrade shock shafts and ti turnbuckles like the marketing pics. Also like that it comes with more Aluminum and good bearings. Justifies the extra $30.
Doesn't look like the ti turnbuckles are included.
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Old 04-29-2016, 07:44 PM   #116
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Originally Posted by 190mph View Post
For the Xray crowd.


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Originally Posted by Silverstonev8 View Post
Wow. Awesome job so far RCBuddha.
Thanks...
Thanks man! I think the new layout for the first page will make things easier to see and read.

Which reminds me...when you guys get your hands on the new kits, please let me know which hopups will crossover. I have a feeling that parts like the Avid/Schelle shock bushings (as an example) will fit the new car, but I will need someone to test it so I can update the first page.
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Old 04-29-2016, 08:35 PM   #117
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Originally Posted by 40yoCaliRacer View Post
I guess my point is, the B6 is much more of change compared to the B5M platform, then the B6D is to the B5M.

Seems like you if you drive primarily on Clay (Much of the SoCal circuit), which do you choose? Their little chart has Clay in the middle and shows them both "good" for clay...
everyones definition of clay grip levels is different but in my opinion i would advocate the dirt edition unless your clay is really high grip you know where slicks are good, your shoes stick to the track, only one tiny notch down from carpet.

From the sounds of the interviews ive seen about it the b6 will work on any clay just the b6d would be easier to setup and drive
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Old 04-29-2016, 08:36 PM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
While the front carriers/spindles should bolt up to the b5m the geometry is most likely not the same as it is designed to work with the new steering rack...rear hubs should be good to go.
I'd actually be surprised if the fundamental geometry was changed. The arm lengths and shock mounting locations on the arms are the same on the B3, B4, B5, and B44 cars. I'd be shocked if these were changed. The adjustable height hubs front and rear would make a difference and I suspect the top hole results in the same geometry as the other cars. The bottom hole would allow for a lower ride height without the roll center compromise that just running the standard geometry lowered would have. Everything could be different of course but if this is based off of a modified world's B5, I'd doubt it
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Old 04-29-2016, 08:52 PM   #119
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Thumbs up ETA

Tower has a pre-order up saying late June , 30$ coupon will bring it down to $279 and they don't charge your card until it arrives.
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Old 04-29-2016, 09:08 PM   #120
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Guzzling the cool aid and Pre ordered and subscribed!!
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