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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 06-09-2016, 12:12 PM   #736
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The B6 diffs are 2mm wider (1mm per side). The new part number for the gear diff includes the needed spacers so you can run the B5 series gear diff in the B6. They are just using the rear axle spacers they made for when using the +4 C/D mounts on the B5. The small spacers are not needed.

Great tip Paul. Something worthy of the first page.
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Old 06-10-2016, 06:50 AM   #737
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Maybe I didn't look hard enough but do we have a concrete release date? I see on tower hobbies it says July 2016
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Old 06-10-2016, 06:58 AM   #738
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Maybe I didn't look hard enough but do we have a concrete release date? I see on tower hobbies it says July 2016
nothing concrete. all are estimates. If in 2 weeks they have not moved the day again, then mid July is probably good
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Old 06-10-2016, 08:27 AM   #739
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nothing concrete. all are estimates. If in 2 weeks they have not moved the day again, then mid July is probably good
Ok cool. thank you. I really do love my B5M but a part of me wants to build something new!!
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Old 06-10-2016, 09:35 AM   #740
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Speaking of diffs, is there any advantage to running a tighter diff? I'm just starting to learn how to setup my car and it seems like you'd want to run your ball differential as loose as you can (without it slipping) to maximize rear traction in the corners.
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Old 06-10-2016, 12:45 PM   #741
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Generally A tighter diff will allow your car to square up faster while a loose diff will allow your car to continue to rotate as it exits the corner. This said, the vast majority of people set their diff and forget it. You can always adjust other settings to accommodate your diff setting.
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Old 06-10-2016, 01:24 PM   #742
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question on parts quality. Now I know the B6 isn't out (duh), but, based on what you guys saw on the B5, how would that vehicles compare parts quality wise with say Xray for example? ( I am using them from my onroad days as they were one of the gold standards on quality from what I could tell, so I figure there offroad line should have the same feel).

Big concern is getting a vehicle that has the performance you want, but is something that gets really sloppy and is a $$$ pit do to that.
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Old 06-10-2016, 01:25 PM   #743
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question on parts quality. Now I know the B6 isn't out (duh), but, based on what you guys saw on the B5, how would this compare parts quality wise with say Xray for example? ( I am using them from my onroad days as they were one of the gold standards on quality from what I could tell, so I figure there offroad line should have the same feel).

Big concern is getting a vehicle that has the performance you want, but is something that gets really sloppy and is a $$$ pit do to that.
I doubt it will be like an xray. probably more like a b5m, but without the front insert slop. Which was most of the issue.
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Old 06-10-2016, 02:00 PM   #744
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
question on parts quality. Now I know the B6 isn't out (duh), but, based on what you guys saw on the B5, how would that vehicles compare parts quality wise with say Xray for example? ( I am using them from my onroad days as they were one of the gold standards on quality from what I could tell, so I figure there offroad line should have the same feel).

Big concern is getting a vehicle that has the performance you want, but is something that gets really sloppy and is a $$$ pit do to that.
Had a Xray liked the B5m more. Xray built well and parts were best I have seen. Parts may wear slightly faster on B5m but the cost is much cheaper. B5m drives a lot better and more consistent. In the long run the AE is cheaper and much easier to drive imo
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Old 06-10-2016, 02:03 PM   #745
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Had a Xray liked the B5m more. Xray built well and parts were best I have seen. Parts may wear slightly faster on B5m but the cost is much cheaper. B5m drives a lot better and more consistent. In the long run the AE is cheaper and much easier to drive imo
yeah, $10 per a-arm for the xray.....$75 for a ball diff....
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Old 06-10-2016, 02:24 PM   #746
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Brown View Post
The b6 has the gullwing arms and wider tower. Plus a gear diff. That's it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
question on parts quality. Now I know the B6 isn't out (duh), but, based on what you guys saw on the B5, how would that vehicles compare parts quality wise with say Xray for example? ( I am using them from my onroad days as they were one of the gold standards on quality from what I could tell, so I figure there offroad line should have the same feel).

Big concern is getting a vehicle that has the performance you want, but is something that gets really sloppy and is a $$$ pit do to that.
Parts breakage won't be an issue, due to quality anyway, with the new AE. IMO, none of the reasons on road guys buy Xray cars translate to off road. Slop from wear is minimal with the new AE stuff and the optional grub/set screws took care of almost any other sloppy areas. I assume the B6 will be as good or better on that. You just don't NEED the crazy tight, zero slop in off road like you do in on road. Which is why Xray is the leader in on road.

I'm an AE guy but I would buy an Xray over AE if I were to run On Road again.
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Old 06-10-2016, 04:28 PM   #747
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thanks guys. doing some due diligence here mainly for next year, so seeing whats what of the brands out there like xray, associated, kyosho, and even sworkz (I like how you get all three tranny types out of the box).
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Old 06-10-2016, 04:35 PM   #748
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I've never been a fan of the "multiple options in one box" type of cars. They've always seemed to make design sacrifices in order to put it all in one box. I prefer a car designed specifically for what I'm racing on.
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Old 06-10-2016, 05:00 PM   #749
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Well I'm running Associated buggies and Losi Trucks so I can run both brands.
By next year the B6 and B6D will be available without being backordered all the time.
Already the car has proven itself on the race track.
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Old 06-10-2016, 09:36 PM   #750
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Did anyone see that the B6 out drives became in stock this morning? Then this afternoon it was back out of stock?
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