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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 05-27-2016, 07:47 PM   #646
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I've noticed far better times with my B5M compared to my B4 but that also could be chalked up to gaining more experience in the process. I see what you guys are saying though.
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Old 05-27-2016, 09:27 PM   #647
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my consistency went up with the B5 series and confidence in the durability increased greatly as well. I dont expect that big of a change with the b6, but I am sure the car will be just as good, with updates.
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Old 05-27-2016, 11:11 PM   #648
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I didnt say he never won. I said he has not seen the same success. But...he seems to put all of his effort into 8th scale, so that could be a cause.
Because he still needs a worlds.
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Old 05-28-2016, 07:12 AM   #649
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All the success and improved driving when the B5 series came out is due to the simple fact it was metric... think about it.
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Old 05-28-2016, 07:30 AM   #650
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Because he still needs a worlds.
I agree that he wants one badly.
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Old 05-28-2016, 01:29 PM   #651
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All the success and improved driving when the B5 series came out is due to the simple fact it was metric... think about it.
Yes I converted my b4 to metric and it was 7/16th of a second per lap quicker.
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Old 05-28-2016, 01:35 PM   #652
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Yes I converted my b4 to metric and it was 7/16th of a second per lap quicker.
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Old 05-29-2016, 02:12 AM   #653
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The B5m is an extremely good platform. I've got a 6D on order and it will be my stock car and I'm gonna turn my 5m into a mod buggy. The 5m even though a short run vehicle compared to the B4 platform and all the iterations there of, is a very capable and well developed car. Today's JBRL results, 1st place - Cody Turner, B5m, 2nd place & TQ - Jake Mayo, B5m and 3rd place - Steven Hartson B6D. I have no doubt that once the 6/D platform has more development in the hands of the team drivers and public, it will undoubtedly be a superior platform. But right now, the 5m's still showing it's very capable of winning!
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Old 05-30-2016, 06:58 AM   #654
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Pre ordered a kit. Our last kits were a 44.2 and 44.3.
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Old 05-30-2016, 10:27 AM   #655
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I may end up getting both versions. The Regular B6 would be perfect for 1/10 latemodel.
And the B6D can be my offroader. Oval racing is more popular here now than offroad I have no idea why either.
People run Custom Works stuff and that company basically got off the ground converting Assocaited cars.
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Old 05-30-2016, 06:39 PM   #656
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott R View Post
Any idea what those Front Tires are?...Rears too for that matter
They are jconcepts new carpet tires...they are.still working on a compound but Thomas Tran let me try his prototype ones that Jason sent for testing and they are real nice the current compound is too hard but they still worked very good !
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Old 05-30-2016, 09:53 PM   #657
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As to which kit to buy, the way Brent explained it (which wildcat shared) is pretty spot on. To me it's this simple:

The only reason to buy the B6 is if you plan to run carpet or turf, that's it!

For any other surface including switching back and forth between dirt/turf/carpet etc buy the B6D and any parts to convert as it'll be cheaper and easier.
Many people are successfully running the laydown car on dirt.

Just sayin.
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Old 05-30-2016, 09:55 PM   #658
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I didnt say he never won. I said he has not seen the same success. But...he seems to put all of his effort into 8th scale, so that could be a cause.
Winning the Reedy Race is kind of a big deal. Just sayin.
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Old 05-30-2016, 10:51 PM   #659
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Laydown is the future in my opinion. I ordered a B6 even though our indoor track is medium, medium plus in traction. I get the end of summer and off of fall to work on setup before winter indoor season starts up. I can always add the flat arms and tower from the D for less than $30 and the ball diff if I can't get the gear diff to work. In my opinion, half the fun of racing is trying unconventional things.

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Many people are successfully running the laydown car on dirt.

Just sayin.
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Old 05-31-2016, 05:53 AM   #660
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTRJ View Post
Laydown is the future in my opinion. I ordered a B6 even though our indoor track is medium, medium plus in traction. I get the end of summer and off of fall to work on setup before winter indoor season starts up. I can always add the flat arms and tower from the D for less than $30 and the ball diff if I can't get the gear diff to work. In my opinion, half the fun of racing is trying unconventional things.
You're gear diff is gonna be garbage so you gonna end up spending more doing it that way because of having to buy the ball diff. I would get the b6d and then do it the other way around.
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