649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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03-14-2017, 09:38 AM
#6091
+1 on heavier cars being easier to drive.
Running my B6 in stock I have always tried to get as close to 1500 as possible. On one of my last practice sessions the track owner (AE driver) put his money where his mouth is. He took both brass weights (69 grams total) from under his battery and said "put these in, adjust your ride height and see what you think." I couldn't see spending more money on weight as I was right at 1500 but he was right. I could run just as fast of laps, more consistently with the added weight.
Running my B6 in stock I have always tried to get as close to 1500 as possible. On one of my last practice sessions the track owner (AE driver) put his money where his mouth is. He took both brass weights (69 grams total) from under his battery and said "put these in, adjust your ride height and see what you think." I couldn't see spending more money on weight as I was right at 1500 but he was right. I could run just as fast of laps, more consistently with the added weight.
Last edited by sipaboy; 03-14-2017 at 10:40 AM.
03-14-2017, 10:07 AM
#6092
03-14-2017, 10:23 AM
#6094
03-14-2017, 10:25 AM
#6095
+1 on heavier cars being easier to drive.
Running my B6 in stock I have always tried to get as close to 1500 as possible. On one of my last practice sessions the track owner (AE driver) put his money where his mouth is. He took both brass weights (69 grams total) from under his battery and said "put these in, adjust your ride height and see what you think." I couldn't see spending more money on weight as I was right at 1500 but he was right. I could run just as fast of laps, more consistently with the added weight.
Running my B6 in stock I have always tried to get as close to 1500 as possible. On one of my last practice sessions the track owner (AE driver) put his money where his mouth is. He took both brass weights (69 grams total) from under his battery and said "put these in, adjust your ride height and see what you think." I couldn't see spending more money on weight as I was right at 1500 but he was right. I could run just as fast of laps, more consistently with the added weight.
Have you tried your existing setup/weight with a lower spring rate? That could have a similar effect without the handicap of the extra weight.
Back when lipo became popular, many guys setups called for as much a 6oz. added weight. After a while, the AE guys re-jigged the B4's setup and got it to work very well at 1500g.
03-14-2017, 11:07 AM
#6096
Seems like you have a setup opportunity. Adding the weight and adjusting the ride height to suit should just slow down the car's reaction a little.
Have you tried your existing setup/weight with a lower spring rate? That could have a similar effect without the handicap of the extra weight.
Back when lipo became popular, many guys setups called for as much a 6oz. added weight. After a while, the AE guys re-jigged the B4's setup and got it to work very well at 1500g.
Have you tried your existing setup/weight with a lower spring rate? That could have a similar effect without the handicap of the extra weight.
Back when lipo became popular, many guys setups called for as much a 6oz. added weight. After a while, the AE guys re-jigged the B4's setup and got it to work very well at 1500g.
03-14-2017, 02:44 PM
#6097
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: NJ (up 17 past paramus but before NY border)
Posts: 52
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Part number is ASC91736 but I think I'm going to try things how JsK suggested and run without a sway bar and with the stock b6 setup.
I just spent most of today on putting everything in line with the stock setup and I think I'm ready to give it a whirl at the track.
Thanks for all the help everyone. I really appreciate it
I just spent most of today on putting everything in line with the stock setup and I think I'm ready to give it a whirl at the track.
Thanks for all the help everyone. I really appreciate it
03-14-2017, 05:26 PM
#6098
- performance wise you will feel the rear more locked in mid corner and on power.
- the 0 refers to the toe-in of the blocks
- as the axle height isn't adjustable, they may not be suitable for turf / carpet where super low ride heights are used.
Ray
03-14-2017, 05:49 PM
#6099
Hubs
[QUOTE=ray_munday;14869933]We use them on outdoor dirt. They are slightly stiffer and heavier than the kit plastic parts, also more durable. The axle height is equivalent to 0mm on the plastic parts.
- performance wise you will feel the rear more locked in mid corner and on power.
- the 0 refers to the toe-in of the blocks
- as the axle height isn't adjustable, they may not be suitable for turf / carpet where super low ride heights are used.
Ray[/QUOTE
Would they help any or be any good on indoor clay tracks? The different tracks are medium, medium to high, or high bite traction. Some tracks are smooth, and some are smooth with some ruts. Usually using 21mm- 23mm ride heights.
Thank you very much!
- performance wise you will feel the rear more locked in mid corner and on power.
- the 0 refers to the toe-in of the blocks
- as the axle height isn't adjustable, they may not be suitable for turf / carpet where super low ride heights are used.
Ray[/QUOTE
Would they help any or be any good on indoor clay tracks? The different tracks are medium, medium to high, or high bite traction. Some tracks are smooth, and some are smooth with some ruts. Usually using 21mm- 23mm ride heights.
Thank you very much!
03-15-2017, 12:00 AM
#6100
[QUOTE=rgrg2;14869952]
Unfortunately I don't get to run on that kind of surface, but from what I see the team guys in the US also use the alloy hubs on the rear of their B6. SO I would say yes.
Ray
We use them on outdoor dirt. They are slightly stiffer and heavier than the kit plastic parts, also more durable. The axle height is equivalent to 0mm on the plastic parts.
- performance wise you will feel the rear more locked in mid corner and on power.
- the 0 refers to the toe-in of the blocks
- as the axle height isn't adjustable, they may not be suitable for turf / carpet where super low ride heights are used.
Ray[/QUOTE
Would they help any or be any good on indoor clay tracks? The different tracks are medium, medium to high, or high bite traction. Some tracks are smooth, and some are smooth with some ruts. Usually using 21mm- 23mm ride heights.
Thank you very much!
- performance wise you will feel the rear more locked in mid corner and on power.
- the 0 refers to the toe-in of the blocks
- as the axle height isn't adjustable, they may not be suitable for turf / carpet where super low ride heights are used.
Ray[/QUOTE
Would they help any or be any good on indoor clay tracks? The different tracks are medium, medium to high, or high bite traction. Some tracks are smooth, and some are smooth with some ruts. Usually using 21mm- 23mm ride heights.
Thank you very much!
Ray
03-15-2017, 07:53 AM
#6101
Tech Regular
03-16-2017, 09:32 AM
#6102
I don't know if you're looking for a lightweight battery but I just got the new protect lihv 3600 battery and love it. Without any weights and the 25 gram c block my car was 1452 grams. Added the brass weight plates and nondescript he electronics steel plate and needs the car handled best between 1541 and 1555 grams.
03-16-2017, 06:19 PM
#6103
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
I got a set of Schumacher cut staggers low profile front tires and noticed the bead was a real tight fit on JConcepts narrow rims and was hard to glue.
Do the Schumacher tires fit better on the Schumacher rims? I have never used those rims are they as good as the JConcepts?
Do the Schumacher tires fit better on the Schumacher rims? I have never used those rims are they as good as the JConcepts?
03-16-2017, 07:59 PM
#6105
I got a set of Schumacher cut staggers low profile front tires and noticed the bead was a real tight fit on JConcepts narrow rims and was hard to glue.
Do the Schumacher tires fit better on the Schumacher rims? I have never used those rims are they as good as the JConcepts?
Do the Schumacher tires fit better on the Schumacher rims? I have never used those rims are they as good as the JConcepts?