649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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02-01-2017, 07:08 PM
#5506
Tech Elite
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If you are running the B6d box stock I do not think you need weight. I ran it box stock and it ran well but when I went to the laydown in my b6d I started with the 12g c mount and went to the 25g c mount. Also might want to try weight under the battery. The laydown is lighter and if you add other lightening options you can add the weight back in places that will make the car handle better. Getting the weight lower in places like the rear suspension mounts or under the battery. I am trying weight under the battery next. So if your are running laydown trans yes you might want to try a 25G weight c mount.
02-01-2017, 07:50 PM
#5507
Mount
If you are running the B6d box stock I do not think you need weight. I ran it box stock and it ran well but when I went to the laydown in my b6d I started with the 12g c mount and went to the 25g c mount. Also might want to try weight under the battery. The laydown is lighter and if you add other lightening options you can add the weight back in places that will make the car handle better. Getting the weight lower in places like the rear suspension mounts or under the battery. I am trying weight under the battery next. So if your are running laydown trans yes you might want to try a 25G weight c mount.
02-02-2017, 07:23 AM
#5508
Well I finally got a chance to run my car yesterday after the changes and WOW! Through the sweeper I literally didn't have to lift and through the corners the car now basically drives itself. I'm happy the stand up tranny is working how I want. Not seen in the pic is at the track I went to gullwing arms and the gullwing tower and it really made the car easier to drive all around, made it a bit twitchy sometimes on entry to the 180 but if you kept in the throttle a bit the car drove itself. Love my B6d.
02-02-2017, 10:04 AM
#5509
Tech Regular
Just bought brand spanking new tires for my B6D and they are actually dirt oval tires
because it says it on the tire itself "Oval Spec". AKA Rebars. I bought blue DE B5m front and rear wheels, and glued the Rebars to the wheels.
One nice thing I'm glad they did to the B6D ive noticed I can now use Tamiya wrenches to take my tires off. Thanks Associated that was a much needed change.
because it says it on the tire itself "Oval Spec". AKA Rebars. I bought blue DE B5m front and rear wheels, and glued the Rebars to the wheels.
One nice thing I'm glad they did to the B6D ive noticed I can now use Tamiya wrenches to take my tires off. Thanks Associated that was a much needed change.
02-02-2017, 10:18 AM
#5513
Aluminum hubs are pretty? Lol, Seriously, I put the aluminum ones on because I broke a rear hub insert and the shop didnt have any parts. That being said, I felt like I gained rear grip with them, which was weird, because my b5m felt like it lost rear grip with them. So in short, you kinda need to try them and see if you like them. YMMV
02-02-2017, 11:53 AM
#5515
Tried searching, but didn't really see what I was looking for. I'm just looking for a quick explanation for the differences in running the inner rear hinge pin in a high, middle, and low position (not including toe or anti-squat).
I need a bit more off power entry steering on my B6 on high bite clay. A buddy's car has more of the steering I'm looking for, and the main differences in our setups are rear hinge pin height (his pins are up, mine are middle), and he's running flat front arms vs my gulls.
Would both of those factors contribute to his car having more off-power corner grip? Or one more than the other?
Thanks!
I need a bit more off power entry steering on my B6 on high bite clay. A buddy's car has more of the steering I'm looking for, and the main differences in our setups are rear hinge pin height (his pins are up, mine are middle), and he's running flat front arms vs my gulls.
Would both of those factors contribute to his car having more off-power corner grip? Or one more than the other?
Thanks!
02-02-2017, 01:21 PM
#5518
AE vs Kyosho Springs
I see a lot of guys running Kyosho big bore Springs on their B6Ds. Are they worth double the price of AE Springs? Is there a Kyosho chart with the actual numeric spring rate values? I have not found one.
02-02-2017, 01:35 PM
#5520
The "covers" available only protect the top of the spur, not the side. They really only prevent the body hitting the spur. IMO it's not necessary. Your body covers the spur plenty to keep major debris away. I have never had a problem with my laydown without a cover.