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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 02-01-2017, 07:08 PM   #5506
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Are most people using the 12g or 25g Brass C Mount in the B6 and B6D for stock racing? Is it a necessity?
If you are running the B6d box stock I do not think you need weight. I ran it box stock and it ran well but when I went to the laydown in my b6d I started with the 12g c mount and went to the 25g c mount. Also might want to try weight under the battery. The laydown is lighter and if you add other lightening options you can add the weight back in places that will make the car handle better. Getting the weight lower in places like the rear suspension mounts or under the battery. I am trying weight under the battery next. So if your are running laydown trans yes you might want to try a 25G weight c mount.
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Old 02-01-2017, 07:50 PM   #5507
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Originally Posted by Johnn27 View Post
If you are running the B6d box stock I do not think you need weight. I ran it box stock and it ran well but when I went to the laydown in my b6d I started with the 12g c mount and went to the 25g c mount. Also might want to try weight under the battery. The laydown is lighter and if you add other lightening options you can add the weight back in places that will make the car handle better. Getting the weight lower in places like the rear suspension mounts or under the battery. I am trying weight under the battery next. So if your are running laydown trans yes you might want to try a 25G weight c mount.
Thank you!
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Old 02-02-2017, 07:23 AM   #5508
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Well I finally got a chance to run my car yesterday after the changes and WOW! Through the sweeper I literally didn't have to lift and through the corners the car now basically drives itself. I'm happy the stand up tranny is working how I want. Not seen in the pic is at the track I went to gullwing arms and the gullwing tower and it really made the car easier to drive all around, made it a bit twitchy sometimes on entry to the 180 but if you kept in the throttle a bit the car drove itself. Love my B6d.
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Old 02-02-2017, 10:04 AM   #5509
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Just bought brand spanking new tires for my B6D and they are actually dirt oval tires
because it says it on the tire itself "Oval Spec". AKA Rebars. I bought blue DE B5m front and rear wheels, and glued the Rebars to the wheels.
One nice thing I'm glad they did to the B6D ive noticed I can now use Tamiya wrenches to take my tires off. Thanks Associated that was a much needed change.
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Old 02-02-2017, 10:08 AM   #5510
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So what it the battery to use for stock 17.5 racing charging at 40amps?
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Old 02-02-2017, 10:13 AM   #5511
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Originally Posted by rvrslt1 View Post
So what it the battery to use for stock 17.5 racing charging at 40amps?
most all of them can be done this way. I am currently using the protek, but the reedy zapper, turnigy ultimate, SMC and others.
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Old 02-02-2017, 10:13 AM   #5512
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What are the advantages to the aluminum rear hubs? I haven't run any. I've heard that Schelle bearing sets ($18) are a good investment for bearing longevity?
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Old 02-02-2017, 10:18 AM   #5513
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What are the advantages to the aluminum rear hubs? I haven't run any. I've heard that Schelle bearing sets ($18) are a good investment for bearing longevity?
Aluminum hubs are pretty? Lol, Seriously, I put the aluminum ones on because I broke a rear hub insert and the shop didnt have any parts. That being said, I felt like I gained rear grip with them, which was weird, because my b5m felt like it lost rear grip with them. So in short, you kinda need to try them and see if you like them. YMMV
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Old 02-02-2017, 10:22 AM   #5514
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I personally like the aluminum rear hubs because of the vertical ball studs. Not a fan of the inserts.
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Old 02-02-2017, 11:53 AM   #5515
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Tried searching, but didn't really see what I was looking for. I'm just looking for a quick explanation for the differences in running the inner rear hinge pin in a high, middle, and low position (not including toe or anti-squat).

I need a bit more off power entry steering on my B6 on high bite clay. A buddy's car has more of the steering I'm looking for, and the main differences in our setups are rear hinge pin height (his pins are up, mine are middle), and he's running flat front arms vs my gulls.

Would both of those factors contribute to his car having more off-power corner grip? Or one more than the other?

Thanks!
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Old 02-02-2017, 12:04 PM   #5516
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Can you still keep the spur and pinion gear cover when converting into a laydown tranny for the b6d?
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Old 02-02-2017, 12:15 PM   #5517
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
Can you still keep the spur and pinion gear cover when converting into a laydown tranny for the b6d?
Not the stock one, but Schelle, Jconcepts and I think a few others make covers for the laydown.
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Old 02-02-2017, 01:21 PM   #5518
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Default AE vs Kyosho Springs

I see a lot of guys running Kyosho big bore Springs on their B6Ds. Are they worth double the price of AE Springs? Is there a Kyosho chart with the actual numeric spring rate values? I have not found one.
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Old 02-02-2017, 01:35 PM   #5519
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I see a lot of guys running Kyosho big bore Springs on their B6Ds. Are they worth double the price of AE Springs? Is there a Kyosho chart with the actual numeric spring rate values? I have not found one.
Cav won the reedy race with AE springs...
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Old 02-02-2017, 01:35 PM   #5520
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Not the stock one, but Schelle, Jconcepts and I think a few others make covers for the laydown.
The "covers" available only protect the top of the spur, not the side. They really only prevent the body hitting the spur. IMO it's not necessary. Your body covers the spur plenty to keep major debris away. I have never had a problem with my laydown without a cover.
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