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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

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B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 01-31-2017, 04:44 PM   #5491
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have a look at the manual and see if the combination of toe/antisquat is what you need. if it is then theres no point in getting the d block. the d block just allows settings outside of whats available on the stock d block.
Yea I was just wanting to know if I take .5 out of stock setup for a highbite track if that will free the car up a tick and rotate more through the tight 180's. if so then should I do the same thing to the d block. I am still trying to understand when to add and subtract antisquat so idk when I would use that setting lol
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Old 01-31-2017, 05:30 PM   #5492
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Yea I was just wanting to know if I take .5 out of stock setup for a highbite track if that will free the car up a tick and rotate more through the tight 180's. if so then should I do the same thing to the d block. I am still trying to understand when to add and subtract antisquat so idk when I would use that setting lol
no you leave it where it is so the relative position is different. so for you to remove some toe from stock youd change the c pill from .5 out to 1 out to give 2/1 toe/antisquat. if you THEN wanted to add .5 antisquat youd need a d block as the 2/1.5 isntan option with just the c block.... you coul dhowever run 2.5/1.5 with just the c block...confused? lol
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Old 01-31-2017, 05:39 PM   #5493
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no you leave it where it is so the relative position is different. so for you to remove some toe from stock youd change the c pill from .5 out to 1 out to give 2/1 toe/antisquat. if you THEN wanted to add .5 antisquat youd need a d block as the 2/1.5 isntan option with just the c block.... you coul dhowever run 2.5/1.5 with just the c block...confused? lol
I'll just focus on bettering my driving
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Old 01-31-2017, 06:40 PM   #5494
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Those pills will melt your brain if you're not quite sure what does what. There are about a million combinations you could do there. I don't have this car... but to free it up, I would raise the roll center. So, say .5 up on the C mount and .5 up on the D mount. To see what more antisquat does, try 1 up on the C mount (with .5 up on the D mount still).
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Old 02-01-2017, 12:48 AM   #5495
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just try raising you roll center by only using 2mm shims under the inner ballstud instead of 3mm. then maybe go for less toe in the rear by going out by .5 on the c block. dont get too hung up on the d block just yet...drive it and see if you like it. the box setup is pretty damn good right out of the box if just a little bit low on roll center on the rear for my liking.
my car running a box stock setup on carpet was within 0.2 seconds a lap from the Amain winner in a tricked out YZ2 so the setup is good. (not like my driving however)
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Old 02-01-2017, 04:25 AM   #5496
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Originally Posted by Lunchie View Post
just try raising you roll center by only using 2mm shims under the inner ballstud instead of 3mm. then maybe go for less toe in the rear by going out by .5 on the c block. dont get too hung up on the d block just yet...drive it and see if you like it. the box setup is pretty damn good right out of the box if just a little bit low on roll center on the rear for my liking.
my car running a box stock setup on carpet was within 0.2 seconds a lap from the Amain winner in a tricked out YZ2 so the setup is good. (not like my driving however)
I think ill start there and slowely work my brain in some different areas. I love the car, ill post a pick of it today! Ive been working on it almost 3 times a week racing and practicing and I've noticed last month my quickest time was around a 15.6 now im down to a 15.1! Thanks for the help on information, the questions can be ongoing sometimes and I apologize
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Old 02-01-2017, 06:13 AM   #5497
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Originally Posted by Silverstonev8 View Post
Mine are approximately 75mm front and 88mm rear

If I remember correctly I have 2mm spacers in the fronts. I started the build a while back but got sidetracked by a 1/5 scale project. I just finished it a couple days ago...
Thanks a lot
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Old 02-01-2017, 06:28 AM   #5498
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 71schaeffer View Post
Yea I was just wanting to know if I take .5 out of stock setup for a highbite track if that will free the car up a tick and rotate more through the tight 180's. if so then should I do the same thing to the d block. I am still trying to understand when to add and subtract antisquat so idk when I would use that setting lol
I would say if you want the car to steer more around a tight 180 then you would want to add rear toe, so if you where at say 2 or 2.5 degree toe then you would want to go up to 3 degrees
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Old 02-01-2017, 08:53 AM   #5499
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Default C mount

Are most people using the 12g or 25g Brass C Mount in the B6 and B6D for stock racing? Is it a necessity?
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Old 02-01-2017, 01:47 PM   #5500
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Originally Posted by 71schaeffer View Post
So I was wanting to get the aluminum D mount, just thought I would ask because I personally haven't asked this before but if you change toe or anti-squat on one block do you have to replicate it on the other one as well?
The D block allows additional adjustments as you can raise / lower the hinge pin (which has a big effect on roll centre) and you can make the spacing of the pins wider or narrower (which has a big effect on rear stability on and off power). You can then adjust squat and toe by adjusting the c/d blocks relative to each other.

On lower traction dirt we run the pin spacing narrower for more rear grip on exit. On carpet they tend to run the spacing wide. Im told on indoor clay they run them higher to get more steering.
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Old 02-01-2017, 02:18 PM   #5501
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Originally Posted by ray_munday View Post
The D block allows additional adjustments as you can raise / lower the hinge pin (which has a big effect on roll centre) and you can make the spacing of the pins wider or narrower (which has a big effect on rear stability on and off power). You can then adjust squat and toe by adjusting the c/d blocks relative to each other.

On lower traction dirt we run the pin spacing narrower for more rear grip on exit. On carpet they tend to run the spacing wide. Im told on indoor clay they run them higher to get more steering.
Thanks that answered a lot of my questions
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Old 02-01-2017, 04:29 PM   #5502
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I don't see how the 31mm rear shocks help if you use the same 27.5mm shaft. Can someone please explain? Thanks!!!
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Old 02-01-2017, 04:49 PM   #5503
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more oil
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Old 02-01-2017, 06:14 PM   #5504
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more oil
Yes more oil but how does that help? the stroke is the same.
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Old 02-01-2017, 06:28 PM   #5505
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Think about the advantages when we went to big bores shocks. More volume for the piston to move through. The on track difference has been a better jumping and more plush buggy.
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