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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 01-30-2017, 07:45 PM   #5476
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Originally Posted by 71schaeffer View Post
Guys I have a quick question, putting a light sway bar on the rear end would help with traction rolling through a fast high speed sweeper? I am basically running the b6d kit setup minus 35wt front and grey spring. Shocks all the way out on the arms. 17.5 motor, the track has a lot of bite. I also am running 2mm under the rear ballstud instead of 3 stock. Just need some advice thanks
I would raise the rear hubs first before trying a bar. What insert are you running?
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Old 01-30-2017, 08:18 PM   #5477
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Does it 2 wheel around the corner before traction rolling? In most cases a roll bar should help.
Yes thats what it does is bycicles before it dumps
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Old 01-30-2017, 08:19 PM   #5478
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Originally Posted by JsK View Post
I would raise the rear hubs first before trying a bar. What insert are you running?
Just the kit insert. When you mean raise the hub are you talking ballstud or the hub itself to a the bottom hole?
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Old 01-30-2017, 08:46 PM   #5479
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The B6 is built with the +3 or highest rear hub insert not sure about the D. I would try that
or go out .5 on the C and D blocks before a rear bar.

Last edited by JsK; 01-30-2017 at 08:56 PM.
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Old 01-31-2017, 12:51 AM   #5480
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how big of a difference was there from the B5m to the B6d ? I'm looking to get the SC5m and was wondering if I should wait for a new truck or if it's going to be that big of a difference.

Thanks, Cory
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Old 01-31-2017, 01:39 AM   #5481
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The more important question would be when the next generation of truck comes out. They haven't even hinted at updating the current platform. There's no right answer, just how much you want to drive short course vs. how long you want to wait and see.

The other answer referring to the difference between the b5m and b6. There's quite a big difference, but the average racer isn't seeing drastic changes in lap times. But individual results vary.
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Old 01-31-2017, 05:13 AM   #5482
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The B6 is built with the +3 or highest rear hub insert not sure about the D. I would try that
or go out .5 on the C and D blocks before a rear bar.
Will do man thanks!
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Old 01-31-2017, 06:50 AM   #5483
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alright today or tomorrow I am planning to get my B6 sorted for our next carpet race. I got in my yokomo yatabe springs that others recommended. When you go to these springs over say what the carpet standard is (purple fronts however), do you go up or down in oil weight at all?
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Old 01-31-2017, 12:10 PM   #5484
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Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars View Post
so if i get the new schelle 67mm bones, i can use standard B6 axles but whose hubs? schelle make offset inserts for this new part? cause i'm not finding the BMI ones
We have a B6 rear axle set coming in 2nd or 3rd week Feb, it will fit with Schelle or Associated aluminum hubs and won't change the car width. For now, you can get BMI inserts to use kit axles, email jason@bmiracing.com, he takes orders via email.
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Old 01-31-2017, 02:06 PM   #5485
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Originally Posted by Rogntudju View Post
Sorry to insist, no one to take a ruler and measure ?
I don't think your question can be answered as total length varies depending on what eyelets you use, and what you set the stroke to.
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Old 01-31-2017, 03:23 PM   #5486
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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
We have a B6 rear axle set coming in 2nd or 3rd week Feb, it will fit with Schelle or Associated aluminum hubs and won't change the car width. For now, you can get BMI inserts to use kit axles, email jason@bmiracing.com, he takes orders via email.
Here is mine with the new 67mm Schelle bones. I am running the B5 Associated aluminum hubs with the BMI inserts. I also changed the hexes to 6mm.

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Old 01-31-2017, 03:57 PM   #5487
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So I was wanting to get the aluminum D mount, just thought I would ask because I personally haven't asked this before but if you change toe or anti-squat on one block do you have to replicate it on the other one as well?
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Old 01-31-2017, 04:17 PM   #5488
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Originally Posted by Tobey457 View Post
I don't think your question can be answered as total length varies depending on what eyelets you use, and what you set the stroke to.
Thanks. I'm not after absolute measure. I'm looking to know the approximate length of the shocks at rest, fully elongated, the stroke setting will be a kind of margin error
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Old 01-31-2017, 04:21 PM   #5489
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Originally Posted by Rogntudju View Post
Thanks. I'm not after absolute measure. I'm looking to know the approximate length of the shocks at rest, fully elongated, the stroke setting will be a kind of margin error
Mine are approximately 75mm front and 88mm rear

If I remember correctly I have 2mm spacers in the fronts. I started the build a while back but got sidetracked by a 1/5 scale project. I just finished it a couple days ago...
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Old 01-31-2017, 04:27 PM   #5490
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Originally Posted by 71schaeffer View Post
So I was wanting to get the aluminum D mount, just thought I would ask because I personally haven't asked this before but if you change toe or anti-squat on one block do you have to replicate it on the other one as well?
have a look at the manual and see if the combination of toe/antisquat is what you need. if it is then theres no point in getting the d block. the d block just allows settings outside of whats available on the stock d block.
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