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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 01-29-2017, 04:28 PM   #5461
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I also run a B6 at Norcal, but with the Team Powers motors. FYI, I geared down 2 teeth for the last track ( triple in the middle ) and use the same gearing for the new track with the big double and still have plenty of top end on the straight. Running 69/28 which works out to a FDR of 6.41. You would be 72/29 for a FDR of 6.46.

Most people there are not running a slipper in 17.5, or totally lock out the slipper. Also, I always run a fan on the B6 - you are probably under weight anyways so why not have a $15 fan to protect your motor?
I tried that with the stock slipper completely tightened for a while. It felt unsettled and nervous toward over steering when beginning to accelerate mid corner. This seems to be nicer, but i'm still tightening it down more and more. Now that I think about it, it seems there's got to be a better solution to that problem than using a slipper, huh?
I still have a ton of experimenting to do, just need more time to do it

I do have a fan in there now. I just never really used one when I had the reedy in the B5m previously.
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Old 01-29-2017, 05:25 PM   #5462
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Question for those running 17.5 stock class on carpet / turf. Are you using a gear diff, or sticking with the ball diff to keep the rotating weight down?
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Old 01-29-2017, 06:17 PM   #5463
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Originally Posted by radioctrlhead View Post
dont think that waterfall brace does anything at all.... not sure how a bend like that can provide any bracing behavior at all.

Also, does anyone know when we can expect aluminum rear hubs incorporating the use of 67mm dog bones? i am very interested in trying this out.
Flex your chassis front to back with the brace on, then loosen the bolts 90 degrees and flex the chassis the same way. Big difference. Try the same with the side rails.

Also waiting on hubs...
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Old 01-29-2017, 06:37 PM   #5464
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Question for those running 17.5 stock class on carpet / turf. Are you using a gear diff, or sticking with the ball diff to keep the rotating weight down?
Gear diff with only 2 spider gears.
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Old 01-29-2017, 06:38 PM   #5465
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Flex your chassis front to back with the brace on, then loosen the bolts 90 degrees and flex the chassis the same way. Big difference. Try the same with the side rails.

Also waiting on hubs...

I love the b6 with no waterfall. The rear stays more planted on high speed turns. You can either say it pushes or it keeps the rear from snapping around and making me correct. It was like having tires that are broken in versus brand new.
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Old 01-29-2017, 07:46 PM   #5466
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Originally Posted by MX304 View Post
Question for those running 17.5 stock class on carpet / turf. Are you using a gear diff, or sticking with the ball diff to keep the rotating weight down?
Gear diff is actually 1g lighter than the ball diff. Strange but true, I weighed them back to back.
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Old 01-29-2017, 10:00 PM   #5467
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Originally Posted by Rogntudju View Post
Hello everyone,
I'd like to know overall length of front (23mm body) and rear (27.5mm body) B6 shocks, full elongated length from axle to axle.
If anyone have already measured them, it would be very helpfull
Thanks.
Sorry to insist, no one to take a ruler and measure ?
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Old 01-30-2017, 02:39 AM   #5468
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Gear diff with only 2 spider gears.
Did you leave both cross pins in, or take out the one that's not in use?
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Old 01-30-2017, 07:33 AM   #5469
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Gear diff is actually 1g lighter than the ball diff. Strange but true, I weighed them back to back.
Thanks, I should be good to go then. Been running mod with my B5M with the two gear setup in my diff. I'll just do the same on the B6.
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Old 01-30-2017, 07:34 AM   #5470
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Did you leave both cross pins in, or take out the one that's not in use?
One cross pin. I've been running my B5 on carpet with a mod motor like that for a while with zero reliability issues.
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Old 01-30-2017, 07:47 AM   #5471
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One cross pin. I've been running my B5 on carpet with a mod motor like that for a while with zero reliability issues.
What weight diff oil are you using with just the 2 gears?
I'm currently using 4K with the 4 gears.
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Old 01-30-2017, 08:07 AM   #5472
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Originally Posted by MX304 View Post
Question for those running 17.5 stock class on carpet / turf. Are you using a gear diff, or sticking with the ball diff to keep the rotating weight down?


tsair: Gear diff is actually 1g lighter than the ball diff. Strange but true, I weighed them back to back.


All gear diff oil does not weigh the same.
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Old 01-30-2017, 03:26 PM   #5473
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One cross pin. I've been running my B5 on carpet with a mod motor like that for a while with zero reliability issues.
Cheers
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Old 01-30-2017, 03:35 PM   #5474
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Guys I have a quick question, putting a light sway bar on the rear end would help with traction rolling through a fast high speed sweeper? I am basically running the b6d kit setup minus 35wt front and grey spring. Shocks all the way out on the arms. 17.5 motor, the track has a lot of bite. I also am running 2mm under the rear ballstud instead of 3 stock. Just need some advice thanks
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Old 01-30-2017, 07:02 PM   #5475
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Originally Posted by 71schaeffer View Post
Guys I have a quick question, putting a light sway bar on the rear end would help with traction rolling through a fast high speed sweeper? I am basically running the b6d kit setup minus 35wt front and grey spring. Shocks all the way out on the arms. 17.5 motor, the track has a lot of bite. I also am running 2mm under the rear ballstud instead of 3 stock. Just need some advice thanks
Does it 2 wheel around the corner before traction rolling? In most cases a roll bar should help.
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