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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 01-24-2017, 07:45 AM   #5401
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anyone have good setup loose dirt indoor track for b6/b6d buggy ?
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Old 01-24-2017, 08:03 AM   #5402
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No it doesn't and I'd be hard pressed to think it doesn't hold the heat longer either too.
You would be surprised how much heat aluminum motor plates and/or transmissions do dissipate.
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Old 01-24-2017, 08:26 AM   #5403
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Originally Posted by BuddyLee303 View Post
You would be surprised how much heat aluminum motor plates and/or transmissions do dissipate.
I have no doubt. Just behind copper, aluminum is a great conductor of heat.
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Old 01-24-2017, 08:43 AM   #5404
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A few quick questions for the group. I'm running a b6d at my "local" (2 hour drive) indoor track - high bite clay. The track is rather small but flows well. I have to be out that way for work later this week and plan on stopping by for a few hours of practice and to test some tuning options. The car is setup pretty close to stock set up with a laydown transmission with the shocks in the rear of the tower. I plan on testing the shocks in the front of the tower. The issues I am having is it wants to break loose around half throttle when turning but the higher speed turns it holds up pretty well. Also if I apply the brakes it comes around fast. Some ideas I plan on testing are:

Move rear shocks in front of tower
Continue to adjust esc brake strength (already set pretty low)
Add travel limiters in rear shocks hoping to give more control when using brakes
Install front wing for additional front bite - even though it is pretty good
Testing pivot positions within the C&D blocks - Currently set middle / middle on both blocks.

Overall I am pleased with the handling but just want to make it better. Having the ability to brake would help as well as being able to accelerate harder in a turn. Also what are the advantages to wider / narrow and higher / lower pivot points?
I'd say you want to change your springs - either softer in the rear or harder in the front, depending on how you like the steering. That should get you close, then you can fine tune with roll center or by changing rear toe and / or anti-squat. I've been using this tuning guide which I found in the B5m thread.

Also, depending on your esc and motor, brakes should be somewhere around 70-80% on your radio if you have 100% in your esc.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf SetupSummary.pdf (29.9 KB, 106 views)
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Old 01-24-2017, 09:00 AM   #5405
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does they add weight on b6/b6d buggy?
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Old 01-24-2017, 10:49 AM   #5406
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Originally Posted by "Smiley" View Post
Just a little fyi, Carbon Fiber does "not" dissipate heat better than aluminum.
This explains it better than I can but it really depends on whats IN the carbon
fiber.


So...Is Carbon Fiber a good heat conductor?

As usual the answer is "it depends." The short answer is NO not when regular carbon fiber is made up in regular epoxy and expected to conduct heat across the thickness. IF a highly carbonized pan fiber with graphite or diamond added, is measured for heat transmission in the length of the fiber it is very good and can rival and exceed copper.

Other carbon materials such as diamond or some graphites, such as pyrolytic graphite, are stellar and can be 5 times better than copper.

Graphene sheets and Carbon Nanotubes have very amazing potential but are not yet in common use.
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Old 01-24-2017, 10:52 AM   #5407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgrg2 View Post
Do you use, or do I need the Glitch Buster or certain servo horn?
The only way you'll need a glitch buster is if you are using a Spektrum radio. Otherwise, you'll be fine without it.
What he said

I actually use the stock plastic servo horn. If I remember rightly, I use it without any spacers because Savox servos sit quite far forward anyway. I've never stripped a plastic horn, but I have broken one once, after a particularly bad crash. When that happened though, I replaced it with another plastic one!
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Old 01-24-2017, 10:57 AM   #5408
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For any of the folks that run at norcal hobbies, I snapped the rear tower while attempting the big double on the newest layout . Didn't clear that thing once today! Reedy M3 17.5, approx. 40 deg timing, 30/72 gearing.
Nor-cal is my local track, though I've not yet been this year. I've heard the new big double is tough, and will try and get out to practice at least once this week.

I can't say for sure, but the timing you have set on your motor may not be correct. If we're ever there at the same time, I'll happily test your motor on my analyser and help you set the timing to an optimal position. Every motor is different, but closer to just under 50 degrees of true timing (the end-bell isn't usually accurate) is more usual on the motors that I've set up in the past.
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Old 01-24-2017, 11:14 AM   #5409
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That helped. Also found that for some reason when I tighten down servo mounts to chassis the servo tilted back. I put some servo tape on bottom back side of servo and alignement was better.

Thank you
I don't know if anyone answered this for you so I will.

The lower screws are too long and touch the side rail unless you use the spacers. My Xpert servo doesn't need spacers for correct alignment so I used 4mm screws instead
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Old 01-24-2017, 02:42 PM   #5410
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Originally Posted by Limeaway View Post
For any of the folks that run at norcal hobbies, I snapped the rear tower while attempting the big double on the newest layout . Didn't clear that thing once today! Reedy M3 17.5, approx. 40 deg timing, 30/72 gearing.
Maybe try alittle more aggressive gearing. Thats my track as well and i run 29/72 and some people run 28/72.

Also you can add .5 up on the C-block to get more lift.
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Old 01-24-2017, 02:47 PM   #5411
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Originally Posted by Limeaway View Post
After five months with the b6, I finally managed to snap a shock tower (rear)/break something significant. For any of the folks that run at norcal hobbies, I snapped the rear tower while attempting the big double on the newest layout . Didn't clear that thing once today! Reedy M3 17.5, approx. 40 deg timing, 30/72 gearing.
I run NCH. Reedy 17.5 M3 with 42deg timing, 69/29 gearing and slipper eliminator clears fine, although I have to do a full run-up once I drop to 7.9 volts on the battery.
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Old 01-24-2017, 03:01 PM   #5412
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Has anyone ever had a front anti roll bar link split when inserting the pivot? It's just happened to me when installing for the first time. It split right at the top.
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Old 01-24-2017, 06:37 PM   #5413
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Old 01-24-2017, 06:41 PM   #5414
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Originally Posted by Limeaway View Post
After five months with the b6, I finally managed to snap a shock tower (rear)/break something significant. For any of the folks that run at norcal hobbies, I snapped the rear tower while attempting the big double on the newest layout . Didn't clear that thing once today! Reedy M3 17.5, approx. 40 deg timing, 30/72 gearing.

Anyway, is it safe to say that it's basically a popularity contest between all the different CF shock towers? From what I've read, there doesn't seem to be a brand that has stuck out as the most durable. VRP towers look interesting, but I worry about bending or damaging other parts with how often I flip, lol. Leaning towards sticking with AE towers since they are the cheapest and are stocked at the lhs.
my actinium V2 clears it no issues. as a matter of fact a buddy and i ran our buggies for about 5 minutes after our main (so 11 minutes) and we were still clearing it although taking a bit wider line.

not too familiar with the reedy motor you have, but i would say that if you're set on running that motor, i'd look into getting the torque rotor (273). or you could get the V2 actinium, run 28/72 and 38-40 degrees on the can and call it a day.
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Old 01-24-2017, 07:29 PM   #5415
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Limeaway View Post
After five months with the b6, I finally managed to snap a shock tower (rear)/break something significant. For any of the folks that run at norcal hobbies, I snapped the rear tower while attempting the big double on the newest layout . Didn't clear that thing once today! Reedy M3 17.5, approx. 40 deg timing, 30/72 gearing.

Anyway, is it safe to say that it's basically a popularity contest between all the different CF shock towers? From what I've read, there doesn't seem to be a brand that has stuck out as the most durable. VRP towers look interesting, but I worry about bending or damaging other parts with how often I flip, lol. Leaning towards sticking with AE towers since they are the cheapest and are stocked at the lhs.
With that gearing you shouldn't have any problem running at least 45 degrees of timing. My experience has been the Reedy motors seem to perform best at 45-48 deg (haven't really tried above that, 48 is about gets it about as hot as I'm willing to let it). I could be wrong but that's just how it seems to me.
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