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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 01-23-2017, 10:50 AM   #5371
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A few quick questions for the group. I'm running a b6d at my "local" (2 hour drive) indoor track - high bite clay. The track is rather small but flows well. I have to be out that way for work later this week and plan on stopping by for a few hours of practice and to test some tuning options. The car is setup pretty close to stock set up with a laydown transmission with the shocks in the rear of the tower. I plan on testing the shocks in the front of the tower. The issues I am having is it wants to break loose around half throttle when turning but the higher speed turns it holds up pretty well. Also if I apply the brakes it comes around fast. Some ideas I plan on testing are:

Move rear shocks in front of tower
Continue to adjust esc brake strength (already set pretty low)
Add travel limiters in rear shocks hoping to give more control when using brakes
Install front wing for additional front bite - even though it is pretty good
Testing pivot positions within the C&D blocks - Currently set middle / middle on both blocks.

Overall I am pleased with the handling but just want to make it better. Having the ability to brake would help as well as being able to accelerate harder in a turn. Also what are the advantages to wider / narrow and higher / lower pivot points?
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Old 01-23-2017, 11:40 AM   #5372
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I just started building my kit tonight but I think I have pretty bad luck. It took me for ages to try to get the outdrive pin in the diff into the 'hole' and I simply couldn't. I then googled and realized that my diff case is defective. It does not have a slot (space) for the diff o ring. So with the O Ring having no where to 'hide', the shaft is not long enough for me to get the pin into the hole inside the diff. I am not sure what to do now!

See photo of my diff case:
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Old 01-23-2017, 11:42 AM   #5373
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Originally Posted by SoLost View Post
I just started building my kit tonight but I think I have pretty bad luck. It took me for ages to try to get the outdrive pin in the diff into the 'hole' and I simply couldn't. I then googled and realized that my diff case is defective. It does not have a slot (space) for the diff o ring. So with the O Ring having no where to 'hide', the shaft is not long enough for me to get the pin into the hole inside the diff. I am not sure what to do now!

See photo of my diff case:

Send this pic to AE customerservice and they will send out a new case. contact info on the AE website.
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Old 01-23-2017, 12:43 PM   #5374
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmcelroy42 View Post
I run on "regular" dirt with the laydown, shocks in front of tower. I have the waterfall removed and battery all the way up against the motor. I think it works really well. Its faster then my B5m was.
OK great. Do have one of those braces that goes from the tranny to the battery hold down or are you not running a brace at all?
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Old 01-23-2017, 01:33 PM   #5375
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Default Measuring Shock Bodies

I have some surplus big bore shock bodies of varying sizes. They are no longer in the package so I was wondering how / where do you measure them to determine which size they are? I want to find out if I have a 31mm pair. Thanks for the help with this.
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Old 01-23-2017, 01:44 PM   #5376
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Default B-Fast?

I have noticed for the last couple of weeks the B-Fast Web site is down. Does anyone know the fate of B-Fast? Where do you get your diff rings from if B-Fast is gone?
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Old 01-23-2017, 02:57 PM   #5377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoLost View Post
I just started building my kit tonight but I think I have pretty bad luck. It took me for ages to try to get the outdrive pin in the diff into the 'hole' and I simply couldn't. I then googled and realized that my diff case is defective. It does not have a slot (space) for the diff o ring. So with the O Ring having no where to 'hide', the shaft is not long enough for me to get the pin into the hole inside the diff. I am not sure what to do now!

See photo of my diff case:
You may have the older case that has the slot for the o-ring inside the case behind the shim that sits under that pin.
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Old 01-23-2017, 03:23 PM   #5378
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Default servo

i need some suggestions on a good servo to get for a B6, within the $50-$100 price range. Will be used mostly on indoor medium sized clay tracks.
Thanks
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Old 01-23-2017, 03:27 PM   #5379
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Originally Posted by rgrg2 View Post
i need some suggestions on a good servo to get for a B6, within the $50-$100 price range. Will be used mostly on indoor medium sized clay tracks.
Thanks
I'm having good luck with the reedy servos...
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Old 01-23-2017, 03:31 PM   #5380
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Originally Posted by rgrg2 View Post
i need some suggestions on a good servo to get for a B6, within the $50-$100 price range. Will be used mostly on indoor medium sized clay tracks.
Thanks
Savox 1258. Very popular with the 1/10 guys. In run it in all my 1/10 as well.
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Old 01-23-2017, 03:33 PM   #5381
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgrg2 View Post
i need some suggestions on a good servo to get for a B6, within the $50-$100 price range. Will be used mostly on indoor medium sized clay tracks.
Thanks
Savox 1258TG
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Old 01-23-2017, 04:51 PM   #5382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MX304 View Post
You may have the older case that has the slot for the o-ring inside the case behind the shim that sits under that pin.
No slot inside either!
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Old 01-23-2017, 05:13 PM   #5383
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Originally Posted by rgrg2 View Post
i need some suggestions on a good servo to get for a B6, within the $50-$100 price range. Will be used mostly on indoor medium sized clay tracks.
Thanks
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...FZSGfgodld0ObQ


never crapped out on me. I have it in all of my rc buggies ... well, just as long as you don't upgrade to an "all aluminum" steering assembly.
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Old 01-23-2017, 05:30 PM   #5384
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Quote:
Originally Posted by linhof4 View Post
I have noticed for the last couple of weeks the B-Fast Web site is down. Does anyone know the fate of B-Fast? Where do you get your diff rings from if B-Fast is gone?
I had been trying their website for a few weeks and it was down. Finally contacted them last week and they said they closed up shop. Really a bummer as I placed my first order with them last month and loved the products....guess I should have ordered a few extras.
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Old 01-23-2017, 05:30 PM   #5385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgrg2 View Post
i need some suggestions on a good servo to get for a B6, within the $50-$100 price range. Will be used mostly on indoor medium sized clay tracks.
Thanks
I'm sure you'll get tonnes of answers here to a question like that, but my 2c is Savox 1257TG. Amain had 20% off all servos toward the end of last year, so I got another one.

I don't think you need the additional torque of the 1258 in a 2WD buggy, so why not go faster and get the 1257. I do run a 1258 in my T5M, and would probably choose the 1258 for the B64D if (when) I get that at some point.
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