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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 01-21-2017, 10:01 AM   #5356
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This guy makes a nice charger lead set:
https://www.facebook.com/Candinos-Ca...5863760177349/
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Old 01-21-2017, 11:49 AM   #5357
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Hi Brad. I don't know what charger you use but I have the TQ leads and and a set of 3ft leads from Tuning Haus. I recommend the Tuning Haus leads. They aren't quite as clean as the TQ ones but the materials are excellent. I almost see no IR drop on the charger even thought they are a foot longer. Maybe I'll post pics to show you what I mean. I have ICharger 406s and do not need boards. Not sure what others are talking about. The Protek leads for $8 are total junk....don't make that an option. I have a few sets and I had to fix all of them at some point.
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Old 01-21-2017, 12:04 PM   #5358
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Here are the pics. The quality on the TQ wires is excellent. I have those on my garage charger. The nicest feature is the stepped bullets that allow you to charge 4 or 5mm batteries. You need to do a tiny bit of trimming to get the plug to go into the icharger. It took 15 seconds with a razor blade.

Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread-p1050352.jpg

Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread-p1050353.jpg

Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread-p1050354.jpg
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Old 01-21-2017, 12:07 PM   #5359
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The Tuning Haus leads are massive. I think they are made of 10awg wire. Although the battery lead connectors are a little more clunky and industrial they probably would last longer......they don't look quite as clean but make up for it in utility. The balance port plug is a direct fit into the icharger. I stretched the leads out to show how far they reach. I usually have 3 or 4 cars on the bench so the extra length is very useful to me.

Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread-p1050357.jpg

Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread-p1050356.jpg

Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread-p1050358.jpg

Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread-p1050355.jpg
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Old 01-22-2017, 01:53 PM   #5360
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Having clearance issue with steering. Servo horn is hitting top plate rail. Using Spektrum 6240 and team associated aluminum servo horn. Advice?
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Old 01-22-2017, 02:00 PM   #5361
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Remove the blue 2mm spacer from the horm and it'll probably clear. No worries, it'll work fine. It seems like the aluminum horns have the 2mm built in.
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Old 01-22-2017, 02:12 PM   #5362
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Has anyone had issues with the top of the shock shaft breaking inside the shock body. My brother and I have both had an instance where on my car one of the rear shafts had the screw come out and the shaft leave the body. On my brother's the top portion that is taper just broke off.

Both happened from crashes. Mine with a wall from hiring a jump crooked and my bro was trampled by a stampede.

I only ask because as much as I accept user error I just want to make sure I shouldn't look for a mor durable shaft replacement.
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Old 01-22-2017, 02:15 PM   #5363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
Here are the pics. The quality on the TQ wires is excellent. I have those on my garage charger. The nicest feature is the stepped bullets that allow you to charge 4 or 5mm batteries. You need to do a tiny bit of trimming to get the plug to go into the icharger. It took 15 seconds with a razor blade.

Attachment 1407672

Attachment 1407673

Attachment 1407674
So all you do is shave off the little tab?
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Old 01-22-2017, 02:24 PM   #5364
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommynash View Post
So all you do is shave off the little tab?
Yeah. One of them depending on which side of the charger it goes into....on the ICharger.
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Old 01-22-2017, 04:39 PM   #5365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhmopar View Post
Having clearance issue with steering. Servo horn is hitting top plate rail. Using Spektrum 6240 and team associated aluminum servo horn. Advice?
I run my Spektrum servo with 1mm spacer between the servo and the servo mount with no shim on the ball stud.
(might put a 1mm shim in there though)
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Old 01-23-2017, 03:13 AM   #5366
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caioz1jp View Post
Has anyone had issues with the top of the shock shaft breaking inside the shock body. My brother and I have both had an instance where on my car one of the rear shafts had the screw come out and the shaft leave the body. On my brother's the top portion that is taper just broke off.

Both happened from crashes. Mine with a wall from hiring a jump crooked and my bro was trampled by a stampede.

I only ask because as much as I accept user error I just want to make sure I shouldn't look for a mor durable shaft replacement.
The screws should be blue loctited when installed. The tops probably broke will the screw was still slightly in the threads giving it leverage to break that thin part of shaft. I'd lictite it next time and give the loctite time to set up. I used blue and seems to be fine.
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Old 01-23-2017, 06:45 AM   #5367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
Remove the blue 2mm spacer from the horm and it'll probably clear. No worries, it'll work fine. It seems like the aluminum horns have the 2mm built in.
That helped. Also found that for some reason when I tighten down servo mounts to chassis the servo tilted back. I put some servo tape on bottom back side of servo and alignement was better.

Thank you
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Old 01-23-2017, 07:58 AM   #5368
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eper View Post
The screws should be blue loctited when installed. The tops probably broke will the screw was still slightly in the threads giving it leverage to break that thin part of shaft. I'd lictite it next time and give the loctite time to set up. I used blue and seems to be fine.
+1. had a few come free on different vehicles I got in used. Will probably redo all the shocks just to confirm.
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Old 01-23-2017, 09:18 AM   #5369
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Does anyone run the laydown tranny on a regular dirt track, one without any clay?
Are you able to get enough traction with the battery not as far back as with the stand up tranny and do you run the shocks on the back of the arms or in front?
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Old 01-23-2017, 09:26 AM   #5370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roysays View Post
Does anyone run the laydown tranny on a regular dirt track, one without any clay?
Are you able to get enough traction with the battery not as far back as with the stand up tranny and do you run the shocks on the back of the arms or in front?
I run on "regular" dirt with the laydown, shocks in front of tower. I have the waterfall removed and battery all the way up against the motor. I think it works really well. Its faster then my B5m was.
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