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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 01-20-2017, 12:45 AM   #5341
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Looking at the pictures of the reedy race it looks like the works guys are not using the AE aluminium hubs. Does anyone know where they're from?
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Old 01-20-2017, 04:35 AM   #5342
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diavel View Post
Looking at the pictures of the reedy race it looks like the works guys are not using the AE aluminium hubs. Does anyone know where they're from?
Looks like prototype AE aluminum hubs specific for the B6.
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Old 01-20-2017, 06:16 AM   #5343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinkz View Post
stubby shorty or super shorty is a 2S pack that is near same size as one of the 1S packs of a 2S saddle pack

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXGBXH&P=SM LRP LiPo 7.4V 2600 Spr Shrty
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/2319698...&ul_noapp=true ARROWMAX Lipo 2800mAh 2S Super Shorty
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...-approved.html Turnigy nano-tech Ultimate 2600mah 2S2P 90C Hardcase Lipo Super Shorty Pack

some racers at my track make their 8 minute 17.5 mains with their 1/10th buggies with no issues on runtime
I run the new protek lihv lipos (3600mah thin) and have no issues with a 7 minute 17.5 race in my buggy or truck. And I only charge to 4.23 volts. I get about 3300 mah when discharged to 3.1 volts. I like running this setup as I have greater flexibility in weight distribution.
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Old 01-20-2017, 06:32 AM   #5344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aeRayls View Post
If your shocks are on the front put the 0 facing forward. Shocks on rear 0 facing the rear.
I forgot about that.....because of the laydown!
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Old 01-20-2017, 07:26 AM   #5345
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Old 01-20-2017, 07:41 AM   #5346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinkz View Post
stubby shorty or super shorty is a 2S pack that is near same size as one of the 1S packs of a 2S saddle pack

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXGBXH&P=SM LRP LiPo 7.4V 2600 Spr Shrty
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/2319698...&ul_noapp=true ARROWMAX Lipo 2800mAh 2S Super Shorty
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...-approved.html Turnigy nano-tech Ultimate 2600mah 2S2P 90C Hardcase Lipo Super Shorty Pack

some racers at my track make their 8 minute 17.5 mains with their 1/10th buggies with no issues on runtime
I run the LRP 2600 and am getting 10mins out of them. Only charging to 4.22
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Old 01-20-2017, 07:56 AM   #5347
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Looking at joona's car from the reedy race, I noticed he's running the b5 hubs with the 0 facing the rear and his shocks on the front of the arm.
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Old 01-20-2017, 09:46 AM   #5348
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Chris, I think you're right and Adam just explained it backwards....or maybe the laydown is that much different. Either way, for the second time I forgot that the laydown gave you the ability to move the tower & shocks around. When somebody suggested that I move the shocks to the rear for the first time I forgot to move the tower.....sad but true and funny at the same time. I remember asking my friend "why isn't this looking right?". I'll figure it out. As long as I remember that there is a difference I'll be ok.
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Old 01-20-2017, 09:55 AM   #5349
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.....I can verify that a few setups on PetitRC show the shocks on the front with the "0" facing forward. Once again, had I thought my way through it I would have figured it out. I'm more hands on and it was freezing in the garage so I didn't want to go look. Just for the record it was literally freezing.
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Old 01-20-2017, 11:33 AM   #5350
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
Chris, I think you're right and Adam just explained it backwards....or maybe the laydown is that much different. Either way, for the second time I forgot that the laydown gave you the ability to move the tower & shocks around. When somebody suggested that I move the shocks to the rear for the first time I forgot to move the tower.....sad but true and funny at the same time. I remember asking my friend "why isn't this looking right?". I'll figure it out. As long as I remember that there is a difference I'll be ok.
It really doesn't matter which way it faces....The way Adam explained it was for hole orientation on setup sheets. That's what we were told when they came out and people were using them on the B5/B5M.
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Old 01-21-2017, 07:35 AM   #5351
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I am looking for charge leads to eliminate the balance boards on my charger. I am charging 2S Batteries. I want to balance charge but it would be nice to get rid of the balance boards and just plug direct in the charger.
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Old 01-21-2017, 07:38 AM   #5352
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Originally Posted by BRSracing View Post
I am looking for charge leads to eliminate the balance boards on my charger. I am charging 2S Batteries. I want to balance charge but it would be nice to get rid of the balance boards and just plug direct in the charger.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...k-5241/p138774
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Old 01-21-2017, 08:59 AM   #5353
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Even better ones if you have both 4 and 5 mm packs..

https://www.amainhobbies.com/tq-wire...qw2620/p451177
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Old 01-21-2017, 09:01 AM   #5354
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if you run packs that have both 5mm and 4mm bullet options, these or something similar could be useful:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/tq-wire...qw2620/p451177
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Old 01-21-2017, 09:55 AM   #5355
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I have both of those charge leads. The TQ ones are very nice, but still need the board. The ProTek ones are good as well and no need for the board.
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