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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 01-19-2017, 08:14 AM   #5326
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Originally Posted by Logi Maker View Post
That is a POS. I use this for making receiver connectors and balance lead for charger lead.

I like this one, because I can do a bunch of different crimps an I dont have to adjust the tool.
https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PA-0.../dp/B002AVVO7K


If you ONLY want to do "1" thing, you can get a ratcheting crimper. but get a bunch of connectors to practice on and to adjust the crimps for crush force.


http://www.hansenhobbies.com/product...ools/crimp_dx/


I also get the pins and housings from hanson. His JR housings fit Sanwa receivers better any connector besides the Z connectors from sanwa.
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Old 01-19-2017, 08:19 AM   #5327
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No lie, I use needle nose pliers to crimp my servo leads. It's not the easiest way, but it works if you don't have the crimper. I'll be investing in a crimper soon though.
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Old 01-19-2017, 08:29 AM   #5328
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The one thing I hate if you do that then you cant use the speed control or Servo in another vechicle it will be set for that specific vechicle.
That's why I don't wanna cut those wires to make them shorter. Just in case I wanna use those those electronics in another R/C.
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Old 01-19-2017, 08:31 AM   #5329
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
http://www.hansenhobbies.com/product...ools/crimp_dx/

I also get the pins and housings from hanson. His JR housings fit Sanwa receivers better any connector besides the Z connectors from sanwa.

just watched the video on the page. suddenly i want to rewire my car. then i realized I have more important things to do this week.
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Old 01-19-2017, 08:33 AM   #5330
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bmag, I have the same mindset so I just fold up the wire, slip on some heat shrink and then snug it up a bit. shoe-goo the wad to something so they don't move.
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Old 01-19-2017, 09:52 AM   #5331
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I actually use this one... cheap, works great...

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykin...ping-tool.html
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Old 01-19-2017, 10:29 AM   #5332
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I open my ESCs and re-solder a custom length lead internally. Very clean and not hard if you're careful.
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Old 01-19-2017, 10:41 AM   #5333
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Originally Posted by jonnymorrow View Post
I open my ESCs and re-solder a custom length lead internally. Very clean and not hard if you're careful.
I do this as well. some esc/servos are harder to do this on. I dont mess with internal soldering until it is out of warranty.
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Old 01-19-2017, 10:42 AM   #5334
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Originally Posted by Logi Maker View Post
I actually use this one... cheap, works great...

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykin...ping-tool.html
My buddy has this. I tried it. It is ok....I just dont like yellow
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Old 01-19-2017, 01:45 PM   #5335
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My buddy has this. I tried it. It is ok....I just dont like yellow
This from a guy that dries a pink car
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Old 01-19-2017, 05:11 PM   #5336
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Hey guys figured I'd share my final weight savings for the tranny.

This is the stock B6D running gear (ball diff)



This is the lightweight setup. MIP B5/B6 "Super Diff" Bi-Metal Differential Kit (w/o the std kit balls), 175RC pinion, MIP ASSOCIATED 17.5 B6 B6 SERIES Race Topshaft, RCSS Associated B6D Cut Diff Gears, Protek Spur and Lockout.

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Old 01-19-2017, 06:00 PM   #5337
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Stupid question that's probably answered a couple hundred pages back....if I use the AE FT aluminum hubs, do I really have to but them on backwards? If so, any insight as to why? I haven't tried them yet on the B6.
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Old 01-19-2017, 08:42 PM   #5338
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sodakota View Post
Anybody known a stubby shortie wourks in this car?
B6D can use square or shorty packs. B6 is shorty only. Not sure what you are referring to as a stubby shorty.
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Old 01-19-2017, 10:58 PM   #5339
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stubby shorty or super shorty is a 2S pack that is near same size as one of the 1S packs of a 2S saddle pack

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXGBXH&P=SM LRP LiPo 7.4V 2600 Spr Shrty
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/2319698...&ul_noapp=true ARROWMAX Lipo 2800mAh 2S Super Shorty
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...-approved.html Turnigy nano-tech Ultimate 2600mah 2S2P 90C Hardcase Lipo Super Shorty Pack

some racers at my track make their 8 minute 17.5 mains with their 1/10th buggies with no issues on runtime
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Last edited by Pinkz; 01-19-2017 at 11:09 PM.
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Old 01-20-2017, 12:24 AM   #5340
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
Stupid question that's probably answered a couple hundred pages back....if I use the AE FT aluminum hubs, do I really have to but them on backwards? If so, any insight as to why? I haven't tried them yet on the B6.
If your shocks are on the front put the 0 facing forward. Shocks on rear 0 facing the rear.
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