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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 01-16-2017, 08:42 AM   #5236
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For anyone running losi 22 3.0 rear hubs/axle and dogbones, what camber link setting and ball stud spacing?
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Old 01-16-2017, 08:53 AM   #5237
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For anyone running losi 22 3.0 rear hubs/axle and dogbones, what camber link setting and ball stud spacing?
I don't think the hubs are part of the equation. People are running the BMI spacers with the 67mm Losi dogbones
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Old 01-16-2017, 09:41 AM   #5238
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69 View Post
Either the stock body or JC S2. The stock body is really nice looking.
Jc is introducing the new Finnisher F2 bkdy for the B6 on the Reedy race. Its about time.
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Old 01-16-2017, 10:10 AM   #5239
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Default Gearing

Hey all,

I'm running an ecopower slingshot 17.5 motor in my B6D with a 31 pinion and 69 spur. Everyone at the track looked at me like I had 8 heads. I showed them the manual recommends this gearing. Saturday was the first time I ran this buggy. Am I insane or are others just out there? I should note they were all running different motors too (modified).

I'll be running it again tonight to check motor temps.
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Old 01-16-2017, 10:27 AM   #5240
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Gearing should be somewhere close to that.
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Old 01-16-2017, 10:34 AM   #5241
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With a 17.5 I am at 31-33/69 and with a 1S motor I am at 28-30/69. Each car is different for cooling also. I say you are pretty right on.
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Old 01-16-2017, 10:41 AM   #5242
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Gearing sounds close to me.
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Old 01-16-2017, 10:44 AM   #5243
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Originally Posted by AE_Stig View Post
2x1.8 flat lands better for carpet racing
cool thanks for the info. Do you feel it performs better than 1.7 when it gets bumpy at all?
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Old 01-16-2017, 10:49 AM   #5244
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Originally Posted by bongoray View Post
Hey all,

I'm running an ecopower slingshot 17.5 motor in my B6D with a 31 pinion and 69 spur. Everyone at the track looked at me like I had 8 heads. I showed them the manual recommends this gearing. Saturday was the first time I ran this buggy. Am I insane or are others just out there? I should note they were all running different motors too (modified).

I'll be running it again tonight to check motor temps.
I'm running 33/69 on 17.5 because i needed more speed to clear a large table top on the existing layout. I've got no issues with it - I originally had a 72 installed but found the added top speed the 69 gave was allowing me to clear the larger gaps.
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Old 01-16-2017, 11:01 AM   #5245
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Originally Posted by sstretch View Post
Is everyone cutting their axles down when running the offset bearings, 67mm axle shaft and 5mm hubs? Or do I just run it with the extra threads sticking out?
Thank you
I leave the extra axle hanging out, occasionally I get a sweet spark off the straight away wall at my track.
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Old 01-16-2017, 11:10 AM   #5246
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Got the yatabe springs on order, so will see how it goes next session assuming it comes in on time. Amain was pleasant to deal with and matched towers member coupons.
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Old 01-16-2017, 11:20 AM   #5247
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Got the yatabe springs on order, so will see how it goes next session assuming it comes in on time. Amain was pleasant to deal with and matched towers member coupons.
I put green Yatabe on the rear and red on the front, running a B6 on astroturf.
Seems a tad better, hard to tell a big difference. I had the springs that came with the kit on it before.
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Old 01-16-2017, 11:46 AM   #5248
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Just put the Yatabe reds on the front and the Yatabe greens on the rear. Man these springs are short! Are you guys going with longer spring cups or using the kit setup cups with these springs, the kit calls for 5mm offset cups in the front and 0mm cups in the rear. And just sitting the preload to touching the spring with no compression I get about a 15mm ride height. I did preload them to get me up to 17mm. I run on carpet with small to medium jumps, some flat landers and some have landing ramps...
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Old 01-16-2017, 12:24 PM   #5249
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Originally Posted by SnotRkt View Post
Just put the Yatabe reds on the front and the Yatabe greens on the rear. Man these springs are short! Are you guys going with longer spring cups or using the kit setup cups with these springs, the kit calls for 5mm offset cups in the front and 0mm cups in the rear. And just sitting the preload to touching the spring with no compression I get about a 15mm ride height. I did preload them to get me up to 17mm. I run on carpet with small to medium jumps, some flat landers and some have landing ramps...
if you run out of thread on the shock body, use taller spring cups to get your desired ride height
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Old 01-16-2017, 12:35 PM   #5250
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Plenty of threads left. OK, thanks.
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