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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 01-04-2017, 12:04 PM   #5101
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Has anyone run the 17.5 trinity Monster Horsepower motor yet? I got the 7.5 and it is awesome. Was thinking of the 17.5 for my stock car. Not looking to derail the thread on a stock motor debate just looking for feedback on this motor from other b6 owners.
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Old 01-04-2017, 12:27 PM   #5102
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Has anyone run the 17.5 trinity Monster Horsepower motor yet? I got the 7.5 and it is awesome. Was thinking of the 17.5 for my stock car. Not looking to derail the thread on a stock motor debate just looking for feedback on this motor from other b6 owners.
I have one in my b5m & it flies, just the standard version not certified
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Old 01-04-2017, 01:13 PM   #5103
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Im trying to setup my B6d for an outdoor race. would these all work together for front wheels? if not what setup would you guys suggest? im not partial to any tire or wheel brand. just dont want to order the wrong stuff.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDHJY&P=7

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBZEJ&P=7

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFEXF&P=7#
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Old 01-04-2017, 02:15 PM   #5104
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I would contact someone at the track to find out what the tires of choice are.
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Old 01-04-2017, 02:46 PM   #5105
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Default Aussie Builds - Maintenance Edition B6

Morning/Afternoon/Evening all, by request from racers I have created a new maintenance edition of the B6 Aussie Builds Blog. In this we go through some tips and step by step instructions on key rebuild items to keep your car performing at its best between races and in between race meets.

https://aussiebuilds.wordpress.com/2...-health-check/

As always feel free to hit me up with any questions or comments.
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Old 01-04-2017, 03:41 PM   #5106
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Originally Posted by Andrew Selvaggi View Post
Morning/Afternoon/Evening all, by request from racers I have created a new maintenance edition of the B6 Aussie Builds Blog.
More great tips from the Aussie Build Blog. thanks for taking the time to create this blog Andrew. Good Stuff!
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Old 01-04-2017, 04:09 PM   #5107
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Originally Posted by Andrew Selvaggi View Post
Morning/Afternoon/Evening all, by request from racers I have created a new maintenance edition of the B6 Aussie Builds Blog. In this we go through some tips and step by step instructions on key rebuild items to keep your car performing at its best between races and in between race meets.

https://aussiebuilds.wordpress.com/2...-health-check/

As always feel free to hit me up with any questions or comments.
Good stuff.
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Old 01-04-2017, 04:23 PM   #5108
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Originally Posted by aeRayls View Post
Also forgot to mention that we also switch to the AE 5mm or 6mm rear hexes.
Not sure if anybody has noticed but the rear axles on the B64D have 65mm axles ! I wonder with the B64d rear hubs if this would give the same effect plus it would get rid of TRASH PARTS!!!
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Old 01-04-2017, 04:34 PM   #5109
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Not sure if anybody has noticed but the rear axles on the B64D have 65mm axles ! I wonder with the B64d rear hubs if this would give the same effect plus it would get rid of TRASH PARTS!!!
I doubt they would work. The width of the diffs are not the same.
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Old 01-04-2017, 04:45 PM   #5110
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Originally Posted by Skeeter36 View Post
Did you get this figured out
Skeeter, I ordered a new case and idler gear, which should be here on Thursday. Hopefully that'll fix it. I tried massaging and dremeling the case in all sorts of places but couldn't get it to go away.


It only happens when you put the two halves together, and I narrowed it down to the rub coming from the top-shaft area.
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Old 01-04-2017, 05:04 PM   #5111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Selvaggi View Post
Morning/Afternoon/Evening all, by request from racers I have created a new maintenance edition of the B6 Aussie Builds Blog. In this we go through some tips and step by step instructions on key rebuild items to keep your car performing at its best between races and in between race meets.

https://aussiebuilds.wordpress.com/2...-health-check/

As always feel free to hit me up with any questions or comments.
Looks good! Just a suggestion -- if you could add an RSS feed for it, that would make it easier for people to follow.
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Old 01-04-2017, 05:25 PM   #5112
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
I would contact someone at the track to find out what the tires of choice are.
that is my tire choice cain. im just verifying if those tires and foams will fit on those wheels i linked.

Thanks!
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Old 01-04-2017, 10:09 PM   #5113
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Originally Posted by caffeine357 View Post
that is my tire choice cain. im just verifying if those tires and foams will fit on those wheels i linked.

Thanks!
gotcha. My impression is that the wheels and inserts will work together. As for the wheels, The description say 2.4 and I don't get the same impression for the tires and inserts as being the EVO ones which work on those type of wheels from what I recall.

You would probably want this or something similar:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBVMV&P=7
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Old 01-04-2017, 11:32 PM   #5114
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Originally Posted by cementsurfer86 View Post
Skeeter, I ordered a new case and idler gear, which should be here on Thursday. Hopefully that'll fix it. I tried massaging and dremeling the case in all sorts of places but couldn't get it to go away.


It only happens when you put the two halves together, and I narrowed it down to the rub coming from the top-shaft area.
It's just strange because it's a molded part and they are really hard to screw up. It's a process designed to do thousands of identical pieces. I'm wondering if the top shaft itself is faulty. That would be more likely
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Old 01-05-2017, 07:21 AM   #5115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skeeter36 View Post
It's just strange because it's a molded part and they are really hard to screw up. It's a process designed to do thousands of identical pieces. I'm wondering if the top shaft itself is faulty. That would be more likely

If the case doesn't work, that'll be the next step. The case should be in today, so we shall see.
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