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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 01-02-2017, 01:31 PM   #5086
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Originally Posted by FDDA15 View Post
Newbie question:

I am building a set of 31mm shocks and followed instructions per manual (middle of page 15 steps 1-10) and I am getting a stroke length measuring 18.5mm. What am I doing wrong? Thanks in advance!
You're using a front shock shaft.
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Old 01-02-2017, 01:39 PM   #5087
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
You're using a front shock shaft.
I wish it were that easy. I purchased everything to have a 31mm shock setup to include:

Kashima 31mm shock bodies
27.5mm shock shafts
etc...
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Old 01-02-2017, 01:44 PM   #5088
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I wish it were that easy. I purchased everything to have a 31mm shock setup to include:

Kashima 31mm shock bodies
27.5mm shock shafts
etc...
Measure the shock shaft. 27.5mm shafts measure 47.75mm from end to end. If that's not the case you have something stuck in the shock body.
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Old 01-02-2017, 01:58 PM   #5089
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
Measure the shock shaft. 27.5mm shafts measure 47.75mm from end to end. If that's not the case you have something stuck in the shock body.
Measured.. internal machined washers and x-rings are free and clear.

I fill the shocks, cycle the shock shaft, allow air bubbles to rise to top of shock body, and fill until the fluid makes a dome over the top of the shock body. Screw shock cap on, cycle shock shaft slowly up until oil bleeds out, screw in bleeder screw while shock shaft is compressed. Any suggestions or tips on bleeding shocks?

Thanks!
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Old 01-02-2017, 03:30 PM   #5090
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Does it not matter much that the B5 aluminum hubs move the axle towards the rear by quite a bit compared to the stock B6 hubs?
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Old 01-02-2017, 05:00 PM   #5091
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Does it not matter much that the B5 aluminum hubs move the axle towards the rear by quite a bit compared to the stock B6 hubs?
The hubs don't move the axle to the rear. The only downside to the current AE aluminum hubs is that you lose the up/down adjustment.
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Old 01-02-2017, 05:28 PM   #5092
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
The hubs don't move the axle to the rear. The only downside to the current AE aluminum hubs is that you lose the up/down adjustment.
Are you sure? Cause that's why I switched back to the stock hubs. We put cars side by side and the stock hubs were farther forward. Now I have to check again!
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Old 01-02-2017, 05:33 PM   #5093
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Are you sure? Cause that's why I switched back to the stock hubs. We put cars side by side and the stock hubs were farther forward. Now I have to check again!
Unless you didn't shim them properly. They are a direct fit...you just lose the up/down adjustment. New schelle hubs allow the up/down adjustment.
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Old 01-02-2017, 11:34 PM   #5094
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OK.. just assembled my B6D kit and it's ready. When I first got my B6, the first thing that I demolished was the front bulkhead. I wonder if AE beefed up the front bulkheads or should I get the aluminum one?
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Old 01-03-2017, 12:28 AM   #5095
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I'm assuming you ment b5m and the aluminum bulkhead we run but not because of durability, we use it for weight.
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Old 01-03-2017, 07:36 AM   #5096
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Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
OK.. just assembled my B6D kit and it's ready. When I first got my B6, the first thing that I demolished was the front bulkhead. I wonder if AE beefed up the front bulkheads or should I get the aluminum one?
I broke 3 then switched to the associated aluminum version and have not had a problem since.
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Old 01-03-2017, 07:46 AM   #5097
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Quote:
Originally Posted by remix View Post
I'm thinking a New transmission case is required at this point. I'll pick one up Tuesday.. ugh I just wanted to get this car built!!!

Thanks for the help!
Let me know what you find, as I'm having the same exact issue.


I tried the gears in the stock standup case, and there's a hint of a rub, but not nearly as bad as the laydown case.


At this point I'm leaning towards a new case.
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Old 01-03-2017, 08:52 AM   #5098
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Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
or should I get the aluminum one?
Get the aluminum bulkhead. The plastic bulkhead is the only thing i have broken on my car. The aluminum part also tightens up slop in the front arms.
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Old 01-04-2017, 08:50 AM   #5099
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Originally Posted by cementsurfer86 View Post
Let me know what you find, as I'm having the same exact issue.


I tried the gears in the stock standup case, and there's a hint of a rub, but not nearly as bad as

At this point I'm leaning towards a new case.
Did you get this figured out
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Old 01-04-2017, 10:51 AM   #5100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brian mills View Post
AE aluminum hubs or shelle only?
Schelle, you can still adjust the axle height and if the ball stud breaks its a easy fix on the schell.
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