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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 12-31-2016, 02:41 AM   #5026
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can someone clarify the settings for the rear hub inserts plaese (91697).
ive been looking at some setups and they seem crazy low ride height with the stock rear springs but he rear hub insert says "+3" does that mean the +3 insert has the hole at the top of the insert or the bottom? the only way i seem to be able to get as low in the setup sheets is to have the hole at the bottom and thus lifting the axle height??
is the "+3" raising axle height compared to the arm(hole low) or lowering it(hole high)???
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Old 12-31-2016, 09:04 AM   #5027
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Just picked up a B6D. I haven't been racing in over 2 years. I have a question about the battery, is anybody running the full brick pack? In my B4.2 I generally preferred a full stick vs shorty. Just wondering which to get for the new gen car.

Thanks,
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Old 12-31-2016, 09:07 AM   #5028
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Originally Posted by chevmaro View Post
Just picked up a B6D. I haven't been racing in over 2 years. I have a question about the battery, is anybody running the full brick pack? In my B4.2 I generally preferred a full stick vs shorty. Just wondering which to get for the new gen car.

Thanks,
I would go Shorty. Unless you are running on a very low-bite dusty track where additional weight could be a benefit i wouldn't recommend a brick pack.
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Old 12-31-2016, 09:09 AM   #5029
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Originally Posted by Lunchie View Post
can someone clarify the settings for the rear hub inserts plaese (91697).
ive been looking at some setups and they seem crazy low ride height with the stock rear springs but he rear hub insert says "+3" does that mean the +3 insert has the hole at the top of the insert or the bottom? the only way i seem to be able to get as low in the setup sheets is to have the hole at the bottom and thus lifting the axle height??
is the "+3" raising axle height compared to the arm(hole low) or lowering it(hole high)???
0 is having the hinge pin hole at the top of the hub (axle lower). +3 is having the hinge pin hole at the bottom of the hub (axle higher).
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Old 12-31-2016, 09:10 AM   #5030
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I would go Shorty. Unless you are running on a very low-bite dusty track where additional weight could be a benefit i wouldn't recommend a brick pack.
We are running on high bite clay. It's a new track that opened up, i haven't been there yet. The guys say we run 3 gear lay down and don't make many changes between our carpet and high bite clay local tracks. I got a 3800 Orion XS pack. It's smaller than I thought it would be and only 155 grams. I was thinking it would be too light to even make weight. Should I use it or get a full size shorty?
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Old 12-31-2016, 09:23 AM   #5031
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What seems to be the required option parts running a b6d in laydown on medium bite clay as far as pistons, oils, Springs and setup
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Old 12-31-2016, 10:02 AM   #5032
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Originally Posted by chevmaro View Post
We are running on high bite clay. It's a new track that opened up, i haven't been there yet. The guys say we run 3 gear lay down and don't make many changes between our carpet and high bite clay local tracks. I got a 3800 Orion XS pack. It's smaller than I thought it would be and only 155 grams. I was thinking it would be too light to even make weight. Should I use it or get a full size shorty?
That may be a bit light...i prefer the heavier packs myself. You could always pick up some brass weight plates that go under the pack.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/reedy-l...c27304/p492501
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Old 12-31-2016, 10:03 AM   #5033
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Originally Posted by tony montana View Post
What seems to be the required option parts running a b6d in laydown on medium bite clay as far as pistons, oils, Springs and setup
Check out Kurt's setup on petitrc. It's a great starting point for clay.

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...tedRC10B6.html
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Old 12-31-2016, 12:25 PM   #5034
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Originally Posted by chevmaro View Post
We are running on high bite clay. It's a new track that opened up, i haven't been there yet. The guys say we run 3 gear lay down and don't make many changes between our carpet and high bite clay local tracks. I got a 3800 Orion XS pack. It's smaller than I thought it would be and only 155 grams. I was thinking it would be too light to even make weight. Should I use it or get a full size shorty?
Typical weight for the B6 with the 3800 pack is probably around 1460~1475g.
I run a 4600 shorty, the +25g brass front bulkhead and I still had to add 10 grams when I got weighed
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Old 12-31-2016, 02:27 PM   #5035
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevmaro View Post
We are running on high bite clay. It's a new track that opened up, i haven't been there yet. The guys say we run 3 gear lay down and don't make many changes between our carpet and high bite clay local tracks. I got a 3800 Orion XS pack. It's smaller than I thought it would be and only 155 grams. I was thinking it would be too light to even make weight. Should I use it or get a full size shorty?
I run on high bite clay and set up my car to run at around 1505 with the smaller 2s packs, the car lost too much power at the end of a run to keep up with the iCharger 40 amp charging crowd. without changing anything else I just put a standard 2s shorty and the car feels amazing. The car is around 1550 right now and is super easy to drive.

I would suggest trying it both ways.
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Old 12-31-2016, 05:48 PM   #5036
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I run the protek lcg batteries, similar to the orion. I added the brass c mount, steel electronics plate, and the 36 gram reedy brass lipo plate. With all that and the lightweight drive train nonsense I weigh in at aboout 1510 with a lightweight body. It's a little light and I'll probably switch to the heavier battery brass plate. I like the light battery to add the weight to the bottom of the car. It's a matter of preference I guess but it feels really nice right now.
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Old 12-31-2016, 06:07 PM   #5037
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Originally Posted by 1/4milecrazy View Post
I run on high bite clay and set up my car to run at around 1505 with the smaller 2s packs, the car lost too much power at the end of a run to keep up with the iCharger 40 amp charging crowd. without changing anything else I just put a standard 2s shorty and the car feels amazing. The car is around 1550 right now and is super easy to drive.

I would suggest trying it both ways.
yep. my car is at 1546 right now and it's the best it's felt (17.5 class).
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Old 12-31-2016, 08:08 PM   #5038
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Anyone have issues with the lay down gearbox rubbing internally? My outdrive and idler gear are having an issue when I mate the halves of the transmission - if I hold the rear of the gearbox open a fingernails worth with the rest snug - no problems though.

I should mention this is the lay down kit in for the b6d (ball diff)

Any ideas? Thanks guys!

Last edited by remix; 01-01-2017 at 12:11 AM.
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Old 12-31-2016, 11:25 PM   #5039
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Originally Posted by remix View Post
Anyone have issues with the lay down transmission rubbing internally? My outdrive and idle gear are having an issue when I mate the halves of the transmission - if I hold the rear of the transmission open a fingernails worth with the rest snug - no problems though.

Any ideas? Thanks guys!
Is this with a Gear diff? If so.. don't forget that plastic CVA axle shim.
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Old 12-31-2016, 11:43 PM   #5040
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Originally Posted by remix View Post
Anyone have issues with the lay down transmission rubbing internally? My outdrive and idle gear are having an issue when I mate the halves of the transmission - if I hold the rear of the transmission open a fingernails worth with the rest snug - no problems though.

Any ideas? Thanks guys!
You'll have to add/remove the shims in the diff until you get it right. Its a PITA but occasionally the book diff build isn't perfect. If you need to hold the diff open it sounds like you missed a shim under one of the sun gears. However, there's no way to diagnose it without seeing and/or feeling it. I recommend pulling it apart and starting over.
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