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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 12-29-2016, 03:50 PM   #4996
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hey would appreciate it if you find a place where to get cheaper assorted size screws for the B6/D? Just to have a bunch in the tool box.
Ebay.. just type in b6 screw kit, don't be afraid of the hong kong sellers, Ive order like 5 times from them for the price you cant beat it takes about 3 weeks to get but, I got b5m titanium screws for 35 & full set of ball stud for 27, will get my b6 screws through them probably as well
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Old 12-29-2016, 04:05 PM   #4997
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anyone know if the b6 ball studs are the same width as the b5 (interchangeable) ???
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Old 12-29-2016, 04:33 PM   #4998
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anyone know if the b6 ball studs are the same width as the b5 (interchangeable) ???
Im pretty sure they are the same. I held them up next to each other and they look indentical. I did not pull out the calipers though
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Old 12-29-2016, 05:06 PM   #4999
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Originally Posted by jabroni racing View Post
anyone know if the b6 ball studs are the same width as the b5 (interchangeable) ???
Yes, they are both 5.5mm balls and interchangeable.
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Old 12-29-2016, 05:10 PM   #5000
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Anyone run into the problem where the outdrive pin just does not fit? Both pins can fit into the other outdrive so it is not a problem with the pins....but the other outdrive will not fit....
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Old 12-29-2016, 05:19 PM   #5001
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Originally Posted by Azzkikin View Post
7MM stock. Mine came with aluminum ones (AE# 91610).
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SWEET< thanks i Didn't know, my car is in the mail, my T5M came with plastic so I assumed the same..
If you are looking for a tuning option in addition to the stock 7mm hubs, pick up a set of 6mm hubs (part #ASC71034) as well.

A lot of recent setup sheets posted are showing folks moving to the 6mm hubs.

I ordered a set, anxious to see what kind of difference they make.
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Old 12-29-2016, 06:21 PM   #5002
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hey would appreciate it if you find a place where to get cheaper assorted size screws for the B6/D? Just to have a bunch in the tool box.
My local hardware store sells M3 screws in black and stainless steel for less than a quarter a piece. All lengths.
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Old 12-29-2016, 07:12 PM   #5003
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I'm due to make another purchase myself its been a couple years: https://www.mcmaster.com

A $200 order of stainless screws a few years ago probably was good enough to assemble a couple of dozen cars.
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Old 12-29-2016, 07:27 PM   #5004
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If you have a Mcfaddendale near you they have just about every screw size.
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Old 12-29-2016, 09:08 PM   #5005
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Originally Posted by denon View Post
Anyone run into the problem where the outdrive pin just does not fit? Both pins can fit into the other outdrive so it is not a problem with the pins....but the other outdrive will not fit....
Ya that happened during my build. I just worked threw it and caired on.
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Old 12-29-2016, 10:54 PM   #5006
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Can not beat the price of these guys. I hooked my scalers and the quality is spot on....

Literally like $.02 per stainless screw...

https://www.trimcraftaviationrc.com/...arch&search=M3
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Old 12-29-2016, 11:37 PM   #5007
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
I'm due to make another purchase myself its been a couple years: https://www.mcmaster.com

A $200 order of stainless screws a few years ago probably was good enough to assemble a couple of dozen cars.
wow.... this is an amazing site. I'm only spending $60 and I have 100 pcs of each size of fhs and bhs for the b6.
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Old 12-30-2016, 03:45 AM   #5008
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Thanks Everyone for your info, just curious, anyone know what their car weighs out of the box, just wondering how close to weight it is stock
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Old 12-30-2016, 05:05 AM   #5009
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Box stock with a 4000mah SMC battery = 1528g
with a 2600mah LRP battery = 1460g

That's with tires and painted body also.

I just realized that I changed the battery brace with the 2600mah battery, so that weight is probably wrong. The 4000mah battery was using the stock body and wing.

Dangit, I am also not running the stock body or wing with the light battery. Ok, it's official, I bring nothing to the table.
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Last edited by Azzkikin; 12-30-2016 at 06:43 AM.
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Old 12-30-2016, 07:06 AM   #5010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azzkikin View Post
Box stock with a 4000mah SMC battery = 1528g
with a 2600mah LRP battery = 1460g

That's with tires and painted body also.

I just realized that I changed the battery brace with the 2600mah battery, so that weight is probably wrong. The 4000mah battery was using the stock body and wing.

Dangit, I am also not running the stock body or wing with the light battery. Ok, it's official, I bring nothing to the table.
WoW, so its right there close to the 1499 Roar legal weight.. Nice
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