649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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12-28-2016, 11:05 PM
#4981
Tech Regular
I have a question for everyone, I recently got a B6 laydown car and when I was building it there was a lot of hand fitting parts and things that dont line up right. For example, the rear hinge pin mounts, they are super tight and take a good amount of work to get them to install, you have to loosen both screws and go back and forth to tighten it down to the chassis. Another was the screws that hold down the transmission, you have to torque the transmission case to line up some of the last holes. I have heard from a few others that these cars are better quality(materials and included parts) but they also say that this is one of the worst cars from AE in terms of overall quality control. I had to do a lot of hand fitting like the above or having to file down parts to make them fit and not bind. What has everyone else's opinions been?
In the last year, I've built a YZ4, XB4 '16 & a 22 3.0, I'd say the B6 was easily a match for the XRAY & Yokomos on quality & ease of build & way ahead of the TLR, which had left me totally unimpressed.
12-29-2016, 01:28 AM
#4982
Tech Regular
what pistons should i get for highbite carpet setup with flat landings? looking at VRP or avid pistons with valves? if so should i get 2x1.6/2x1.7 or get the 3x1.4???
or just get plain machined pstons?
or just get plain machined pstons?
12-29-2016, 05:18 AM
#4983
12-29-2016, 07:35 AM
#4985
What thread size are most of the screws on this car?
12-29-2016, 07:44 AM
#4987
12-29-2016, 08:07 AM
#4989
12-29-2016, 09:09 AM
#4990
+1 - 99% of the car is 3mm.
on another note, the fact that AE included the kickup as part of the chassis is a really nice improvement over the 5 series where the front kick up is part of the plastic chassis plate - which is prone to breakage.
on another note, the fact that AE included the kickup as part of the chassis is a really nice improvement over the 5 series where the front kick up is part of the plastic chassis plate - which is prone to breakage.
12-29-2016, 10:00 AM
#4993
7MM stock. Mine came with aluminum ones (AE# 91610).