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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 12-28-2016, 11:05 PM   #4981
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I have a question for everyone, I recently got a B6 laydown car and when I was building it there was a lot of hand fitting parts and things that dont line up right. For example, the rear hinge pin mounts, they are super tight and take a good amount of work to get them to install, you have to loosen both screws and go back and forth to tighten it down to the chassis. Another was the screws that hold down the transmission, you have to torque the transmission case to line up some of the last holes. I have heard from a few others that these cars are better quality(materials and included parts) but they also say that this is one of the worst cars from AE in terms of overall quality control. I had to do a lot of hand fitting like the above or having to file down parts to make them fit and not bind. What has everyone else's opinions been?
I just built mine over the weekend, I thought it went together really well, everything fitted well, didn't need to file anything at all & all of the suspension moved perfectly, without slop either.

In the last year, I've built a YZ4, XB4 '16 & a 22 3.0, I'd say the B6 was easily a match for the XRAY & Yokomos on quality & ease of build & way ahead of the TLR, which had left me totally unimpressed.
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Old 12-29-2016, 01:28 AM   #4982
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what pistons should i get for highbite carpet setup with flat landings? looking at VRP or avid pistons with valves? if so should i get 2x1.6/2x1.7 or get the 3x1.4???
or just get plain machined pstons?
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Old 12-29-2016, 05:18 AM   #4983
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Originally Posted by Thrifty View Post
Center dot on both.
Thanks!
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Old 12-29-2016, 05:44 AM   #4984
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Originally Posted by Lunchie View Post
what pistons should i get for highbite carpet setup with flat landings? looking at VRP or avid pistons with valves? if so should i get 2x1.6/2x1.7 or get the 3x1.4???
or just get plain machined pstons?
For high bite clay or carpet, the vrp eu pistions. They are better suited for high bite conditions.
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Old 12-29-2016, 07:35 AM   #4985
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What thread size are most of the screws on this car?
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Old 12-29-2016, 07:36 AM   #4986
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Originally Posted by MikeGassRacing View Post
What thread size are most of the screws on this car?
3mm thread size. 2mm driver
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Old 12-29-2016, 07:44 AM   #4987
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3mm thread size. 2mm driver
Fine or Coarse thread guessing fine but trying to make some parts and would rather not mess up on the tap.
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Old 12-29-2016, 08:04 AM   #4988
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Originally Posted by MikeGassRacing View Post
Fine or Coarse thread guessing fine but trying to make some parts and would rather not mess up on the tap.
Fine
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Old 12-29-2016, 08:07 AM   #4989
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Fine
Thank You
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Old 12-29-2016, 09:09 AM   #4990
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
3mm thread size. 2mm driver
+1 - 99% of the car is 3mm.

on another note, the fact that AE included the kickup as part of the chassis is a really nice improvement over the 5 series where the front kick up is part of the plastic chassis plate - which is prone to breakage.
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Old 12-29-2016, 09:56 AM   #4991
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Anyone know off hand what size(width) the rear hub hexes are?? wanting to order the aluminum ones.. Thanks
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Old 12-29-2016, 09:59 AM   #4992
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Anyone know off hand what size(width) the rear hub hexes are?? wanting to order the aluminum ones.. Thanks
it comes with aluminum hexes
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Old 12-29-2016, 10:00 AM   #4993
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7MM stock. Mine came with aluminum ones (AE# 91610).
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Old 12-29-2016, 10:13 AM   #4994
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SWEET< thanks i Didn't know, my car is in the mail, my T5M came with plastic so I assumed the same..
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Old 12-29-2016, 02:52 PM   #4995
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Originally Posted by MikeGassRacing View Post
Thank You
hey would appreciate it if you find a place where to get cheaper assorted size screws for the B6/D? Just to have a bunch in the tool box.
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